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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
WATCHMAKERS' AND JEWELERS'
Practical Receipt
Book
A WORKSHOP COMPANION.
^w.
^
COMPRISING FULL AND PRACTICAL FORMULAE AND DIRECTIONS FOR SOLDERS AND SOLDERING, CLEANING, PICKLING, POLISHING, COLORING, BRONZING, ING,
STAINING, CEMENTING, ETCHING, LACQUER-
VARNISHING, AND GENERAL FINISHING OF METALS,
THE WATCH AND JEWELRY TRADE. TOGETHER WITH ALL THE IMPORTANT ALLOYS USED BY THE TRADE AND MANY MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
AS APPLIED TO
COMPILED FROM PRIVATE FORMULAE.
CHICAGO: GEO. K. HAZLITT & 1S92.
CO., Publishers.
COPYRIGHTED,
1892,
BY GEO. K
HAZLITT
&r
CO.
WATCHMAKERS' AND JEWELERS'
Practical Receipt Book. CEMENTS. Amber Cement. i
.
Moisten the broken edges of the amber with a soluand press them together and keep in this
tion of potash
position until dry. 2.
Heat
slightly the
tion of shellac to the
together.
After
by means
of
and
all is
broken surfaces, apply a small porwarmed surface and press closely dry remove the superfluous cement
a sharp knife and polish with a flannel rag
oil.
3. Heat the broken surfaces, apply boiled linseed and press firmly together until dry. 4.
Mastic melted
broken parts
is
in boiled linseed oil
said to
make
and applied
oil
to the
a perfect joint.
Jeweler's Armenian Cement. 1.
Melt one part of thick
part of thick bottle. 2.
to
To
Soak
form
ammoniac
mix with one
use, heat in hot water.
isinglass in
a
isinglass glue,
mastic varnish and keep in a well corked
thick
in this
water and dissolve
paste; dissolve
10
in 2 oz. of spirit
gr.
by rubbing well together.
of pale
Add
gum
to this
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
4
large tears of
six
gum
mastic dissolved
in
the smallest
possible quantity of alcohol. 3.
six pieces of
Dissolve
much spirits
in as
Dissolve two
of
oz. of
wine as
gum
mastic the size of a pea
will suffice to
isinglass in water,
render
pour
off
it
liquid.
the super-
fluous liquor and dissolve in rum, adding 10 gr. of
gum
ammoniac, which must be thoroughly incorporated by rubbing
in
Mix
with the liquid until dissolved.
gum
mastic, using heat.
bottle
and when about
This cement
is
Put up
in
this
with the
a closely stoppered
to use heat the bottle in hot water.
said to be very effective in uniting
all
sub-
stances, even glass to polished steel. 4.
Keller's
hours ^oz.
Armenian cement.
Soak
for twenty-four
of isinglass in 40Z. of water;
evaporated
in a
water bath to 2 oz; add 2 oz. alcohol and strain through
Form' a solution of % oz. best mastic and mix while warm with the above. Add to this 1 drm. gum ammoniac and mix until thoroughly Avoid the lo.ss of the spirit by evaporation incorporated. a linen cloth. 2 oz.
as
alcohol and
much 5.
as possible.
Ure's Armenian cement.
Water 6
oz., isinglass
ioz;
and add i}4 oz.; rectified alcohol, boil for a strain and add while hot, first a milky two, or minute emulsion of ammoniac, }4oz., then 5 drm. tincture of
boil to 3 oz.,
mastic.
Acid Proof Cement. and linseed oil mixed to a stiff paste 1. Quicklime forms a hard cement which resists both acid and heat. 2.
India
rubber melted by gentle heat
is
mixed with
from 6 to 8 per cent, by weight, of tallow, stirring well the while; dry slacked lime is now added until the mass assumes the consistency of a thick paste now add 20 per cent, of red lead which will make it harden and dry. ;
.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Mix powdered 3.
5
a concentrated solution of silicate of soda with glass to
form a
paste.
Melt 25 grm. of old gutta percha, previously reduced to shreds, and mix with 75 grms. of powdered pumice and then add 150 grms. of Burgundy pitch. This cement will be found useful for lining troughs used in galvanoplastic manipulations and will resist sulphate of copper 4.
baths but not cyanides. 5.
seed
Melt oil;
one
add
Neither muriatic nor heat,
in
and
its
white
nitric acid
attack
it
6.
;
it
softens a
little
surface does not dry easily; which
100 parts,
Sulphur
lin-
for consistency.
bolus
produced by adding one-fifth part of
Melt and add
two parts
India rubber with
part
sufficient
sifted
resin
2
ground glass
is
litharge.
parts, tallow until
2
parts
brought to the
proper consistency.
Alabaster Cement.
powdered plaster of Paris made into a paste This cement may be used to join and to §t together pieces of alabaster or marble, or to mend broken 1
Finely
with water.
plaster figures. 2. Melt rosin, or equal parts of yellow rosin and beeswax, then stir in half as much finely powdered plaster of This cement is used to join alabaster, marble, and Paris.
other similar substances that will bear heating. 3.
Melt alum and dip the fractured faces
4.
To
y2
pint
it;
then
Remove
the
pint vinegar
and
put them together as quickly as possible.
exuding mass with a
into
knife.
skimmed milk add
/ x
2
mix the curd with the white of five eggs well beaten, and sufficient powdered quick-lime sifted in, stirring constantly,
to form a thick paste.
watchmakers' and jewelers'
6
5. Prepare a thin paste by boiling rice to a pulp or using rice flour and hot water and thicken this paste with
powdered quick-lime.
finely
surfaces, apply
and place
in a
Cement 1.
Take
Slightly heat the fractured
warm
spot until dry.
for Leather.
equal parts of isinglass and glue and
enough water and then bring
add Let this soak for ten hours and add pure tannin until the
to cover. to
a boil
becomes stringy or like the white of eggs. Rough up the surfaces of the leather to be united and apply the mixture hot to them. Place the joint under pressure of heavy weights for a few hours and it will be found that a joint has been made as strong as the leather itself. This will be found to be an excellent cement for joining flat lathe belts, draw skins, etc. mixture
Shred or cut into small pieces pure India rubber. mouthed bottle with glass stopper and fill about one-tenth full of the shreds and fill the bottle with pure benzine, which is free from all oil. Allow the mix2.
Select a wide
ture to stand until the benzine has thoroughly cut or dis-
solved the rubber. thick,
If
too thin, add rubber and
This cement
benzine.
will
if
too
be found excellent for
fastening small belts or joining other pieces of leather or
rubber.
Cement Carefully
Bisque Figures.
for
wash and dry
several oyster shells, burn well,
slack in the air and reduce to a fine
Pass through a
fine sieve
powder
in a mortar.
and mix with the white
of egg.
Clean thoroughly the fractured surfaces, heat slightly and apply the cement keeping the parts well pressed together for a
few minutes
until dry.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
7
Label Cement.
Gum
i.
Arabic
2 oz.,
gum
tragacanth
/ x
2
oz.,
water
y2 pint. Stir until thoroughly dissolved, then strain and add 7 grains thymol, 2 oz. glycerine and water to make one
pint.
wide-mouthed glass stoppered bottle with acetic acid and add isinglass until it forms a thick This cement is useful paste, which it will in a few hours. for attaching labels to tin or glass, which it does very Half
2.
fill
a
effectually.
Alcohol 95 per cent. 10
3.
tine
1 oz.,
glycerine
The
oz.
1
ordinary cooking gela-
oz.,
gelatine should be pre-
viously soaked in cold water for an hour and the superfluous moisture squeezed out.
glass-stoppered bottle.
Preserve
This cement
mounting photographs, and
will
is
not
in
wide-mouthed
also valuable for
discolor
or
turn
yellow.
4.
One
or
two drops
mucilage
bottle of
is
of glycerine
added
to a small
said to prevent the mucilage drying
too hard, and labels on glass can be kept firmly in place \v4th
it.
Coral Cement.
Warm
coral very carefully,
cover the crack with watch
oil;
and with a pencil brush when cool the seam will
not show,
Cement Melt
lime.
all
Acid Bottles.
over a sand or water bath, and add 30 parts of pure rubber shredded up. is thoroughly melted add two parts of slacked
2 parts of tallow
gradually
After
for
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
8
Glass and Metal Cement. Brass
letters,
and other
articles of a like
nature,
windows with the
be securely fastened on glass
may
follow-
ing: i.
Litharge
3 parts,
oil
2 parts,
gum
copal
white lead 1
part, boiled linseed
1
Mixed
part.
just before using.
This forms a quickly-drying and secure cement. 2.
To
16 parts of copal varnish add
tine, 5 parts of
drying
2 parts of
parts of liquid
oil, 5
turpen-
glue and 10
parts stucco. 3.
Knead
together rosin soap with half the quantity of
zinc white.
Gutta Percha Cement. Resin
Heat to
in
make
2 parts, gutta percha 4 parts and tar 2 parts. water bath and apply warm. This cement is said
a perfect joint for gutta percha.
Cutlery Cements.
These cements
will
be found very effective for fasten-
ing blades of knives into ivory or pearl handles. cavity in the handle
the
crowd
blade,
it
Fill
the
with the cement, heat the tang of in
remove
and
the
superfluous
cement. 1. 1
Melt together
part 2.
wood
Melt4
5 parts pitch, 1 part
hard tallow and
ashes.
parts resin and
1
part
beeswax and
stir in 1
part of sifted brick dust. 3.
in
1
Melt together 4 lb.
whiting.
lbs. resin
and
1
lb.
beeswax and
stir
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Cements
Q
for Ivory.
Mix together finely powdered quicklime and white Apply sparingly, clamp firmly and lay aside for egg.
i.
of
24 hours. Dissolve in 30 parts of water
2.
and
Add
1
a small piece of
alcohol and
2
parts of white glue
Strain and evaporate to 6 parts.
part isinglass.
gum
mastic previously dissolved in
part of zinc white.
1
Cements
for China, Porcelain
and Glass.
In 64 parts of chloroform dissolve 1 part of India rubber and then add from 14 to 20 parts of gum mastic 1.
in
powder
Allow the whole
.
shaking occasionally
to dissolve
Preserve
for
two days,
in air-tight bottles.
Melt together 4 parts of Burgundy pitch, 6 parts sulphur, 2 parts elemi, 1 part shellac and 6 parts of finely powdered kaolin. The fractured surfaces should be 2.
thoroughly cleansed and heated before applying cement.
Enamel 1.
Gum
copal
turpentine 55 2 parts.
50
Dial Cements.
parts,
damar 50
parts, zinc white
Apply hot and
30
after allowing to
the superfluous cement with a
with a burnisher and beeswax. excellent
cement
parts,
for repairing
Venice
parts, ultramarine
cool
1
to
remove
sharp knife and polish
This
will
be found an
chipped enamelled
dials,
either for clocks or watches. 2.
Scrape some pure white wax, mix
it
with equal parts
of zinc white, melt the mixture over a spirit lamp,
and
let
For use, warm the dial plate slightly and press The cement the cold cement into the defective place. adheres very firmly and by scraping with a sharp knife
it
cool.
acquires
a
white and
lustrous
surface.
In case the
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
IO
cement should be too hard add some wax, and
some
too soft
if
the manipulation and
Cleanliness in
zinc white.
mixing are the principal points and contribute essentially to the snow white color of the
moderate heating
in
cement.
Cement
Emery Wheels and
for
Sticks.
Melt together equal parts of white resin and shellac. thoroughly melted add an equal amout of carbolic
When
acid in crystals.
Cements i.
for Celluloid.
In 2 parts spirits of camphor, dissolve 2 parts shellac
and add
to this 7
Apply warm,
parts strong alcohol.
but do not bring the celluloid with
fire
as
it
is
very
inflamable. 2.
in 90 per cent, water bath before
Dissolve finely scraped celluloid
spirits of
wine.
Slightly
warm
it
in
applying.
Cement
for
Horn and Bone.
Dissolve 5 parts of mastic
in 2 parts of
turpentine and
This cement will be found useand 6 parts linseed oil. ful for mending horn and bone jewelry, knife handles, combs,
etc.
Cement Broken
for Jet.
crosses, brooches, ear rings, etc., of jet
may be
repaired with shellac which has previously been
smoked
or mixed with alcohol and lamp black to give
a black
it
The cement should be applied edges warmed before applying.
color like the article.
sparingly and the
Cement
A is
for
Meerschaum.
solution of water glass, or silicate of soda
prepared to which
is
added, by stiring into
and casein it,
a
little
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
II
This cement must be used at once. allowing well skimmed milk to by prepared Casein is stand until it curdles, when the casein is filtered out and calcined magnesia.
washed on a paper cheese
may be
filter.
To
simplify the
lime and ashes, using 10 parts cheese, 20 parts lime and 2 parts
wood
above, fresh
mixed with slacked
boiled in water and
parts water, 2
The broken
ashes.
parts
should be bound together after cementing and set aside for
24 hours.
Cement This cement
percha
Hard Rubber.
be found useful for mending hard Dissolve bleached gutta etc.
will
rubber jewelry,
for
combs,
Apply and when dry brush
carbon bisulphide.
in
over with carbon bisulphide
in
which sulphur has been
dissolved.
Opticians' Cements. 1.
Resin 15
Take 4 a
and beeswax
of whiting in an iron
oz.
red heat.
warm add
oz.,
it
Allow
it
to
1 oz.,
melted together.
spoon and bring
cool partially and while
it
to
still
to the above, stirring in well.
and Allow cover it with rectified spirit of wood naphtha. This cement and until it assumes a jelly. it to stand number 1 will be found valuable for holding glasses 2.
Fill
a wide mouthed bottle
y z
full
of shellac
while grinding and polishing.
Engraver's Cement. Resin,
1
part; brick dust,
1
part;
mix with
heat.
Fireproof Cement.
A
very tenacious and fire-proof cement for metals is be made by mixing pulverized asbestos with waterglass, to be had in any drug store; it is said to be
said to
steam
tight,
and
resist
any temperature.
watchmakers' and jewelers'
12
Metal Cement.
Take Plaster of Paris, and mix it to proper thickness by using water containing about one-fourth of gum Arabic. This cement is excellent for metal exposed to contact with alcohol.
Strong Cement.
Mix some finely-powdered to
form a
Add
soft paste.
rice
with cold water, so as
boiling water, and finally boil
two minutes. A strong white color, which can be
the mixture in a pan for one or
cement
is
used for
thus obtained of a
many
purposes.
Gold and Silver Colored Cement.
A
cement for 60 parts
sists of
filling
hollow gold and silver articles con-
shellac,
10 parts Venetian turpentine, and
3 parts gold bronze, or silver bronze, as the case
The
shellac
and
finally,
is
melted
first,
the turpentine
is
may
be.
then added,
with constant stirring, the gold or silver
bronze.
Tortoise Shell Cement. Shellac, 45 parts; mastic, 15 parts; spirits of wine, per cent., 175 parts; and turpentine, 3 parts. This
1.
90 cement
will
join
broken
tortoise
handles, combs, cigar holders,
shell
etc., in
jewelry,
a very neat
and the joint will be so strong that break the material than the joint.
it
will
knife
manner
be easier to
3
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
1
ENAMELS. Enamel Fluxes The
ingredients are
for
Colored Enamels.
pounded
a
to
powder
fine
in a
stone mortar and then placed in a heated crucible.
To
prepare the fluxes, a suitable furnace
must be with
fire
entirely free
is
from rust and lined up
used, which
to the cover
bricks set in clay so that only the opening for
Through
the door remains free.
the cover, which
is
a hole in the center of
also provided with a cover, the ingre-
dients in the crucible are stored
To
with an iron rod.
upon the grate. done either with charcoal alone, or with charcoal mixed with coke. The following are the most secure the crucible, a piece of brick
The
laid
is
firing is
important fluxes: 1. Fuse 8 parts of minium, i^ parts ground flint and 6 of flint glass.
Fuse 10 parts
2. 1
of flint glass,
1
of borax,
2
of white arsenic
of
and
of saltpetre. 3.
Fuse
1
4.
Fuse
9^
part of
minium and
parts of minium,
3 of flint glass.
5^
of
borax and 8 of
flint glass.
Fuse 6 parts of flint glass, 7 of the according to No. 2, and 8 of minium. 5.
Fuse 6 parts
6.
No.
4,
7.
dered
with
1
prepared according
to
of colcothar.
Fuse 6 parts flint.
of the flux
flux prepared
of
minium, 4
of
borax and
2 of
pow-
4
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
1
The
above are cooled
fluxes prepared as
off in
water,
then dried and finally powdered in a stone mortar.
Brown Enamel. Fuse together S}4 parts flint, and 2 2 y of pyrolusite, mixture with
of
minium, 4 of pulverized
triturate, 1
y
parts of this
2
part of flux 4, and 1^2 parts of iron
1
filings.
Green Enamel. Prepare green green pot metal
i%
of
flux
1.
by fusing together
1
parts of
2 ]/
glass, 3 of pulverized flint, 7^2 of borax,
green oxide of copper, 7^2 of minium and 3 of Pound the mixture to fine powder in a stone Triturate with water
mortar. flux 2
frit
and
2^
5 parts of this
frit,
}4
of
of flux 6.
Light Red Enamel. Triturate with water
1
j4 parts of white lead,
red sulphate of iron and 3 of flux
1
part of
1.
Dark Red Enamel. Triturate with water
and
2^
1
part of
brown sulphate
of iron,
of flux 7.
Opaque White Enamel. Calcine in a crucible
1
part of buck's horn shavings
until
they are entirely white, and rub them to a paste
with
1
part of flux
1.
Triturate with water
Venetian white enamel and two mixtures together.
1
of flux
No.
8,
1
part of
and fuse the
White Enamel. For white enamel all ingredients must be perfectly free from foreign admixture as any impurities will interfere with the color.
Washed antimony
1
part, fine glass,
5
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
1
perfectly free from lead, 3 parts; mix, melt and pour the
fused mass into clean water; dry and repeat as before until a perfectly
managed
uniform color
is
When
obtained.
well
the color will rival the opal.
Violet Enamel. Saline or alkaline
frits
or fluxes colored with small
The color depends on the complete oxidization of the metal and care should therefore be taken not to give contact with any substance quantities of peroxide of
manganese.
in the flux that will abstract the
oxygen.
Rose Colored Enamel. Purple enamel or
Mix and add
its
constituents, 3 parts, flux
silver leaf or oxide of silver
90
parts.
one part or less,
according to shade desired.
Purple Enamel. Flux, colored with oxide of gold, purple precipitate
1.
of cassius, or peroxide of
Sulphur,
2. 1
manganese.
niter, vitriol,
antimony, oxide of
tin,
of each
pound, red lead 60 pounds, mix, fuse, cool and powder,
add rose copper, 19 oz.,
borax, 3
silver
oz.,
1
and mercury.
copper rod, place
oz., zaffre 1 oz., lb.
of a
crocus martis,
compound, formed
Fuse, stirring constantly
in crucibles
and place
in
\y2
of gold,
with a
reverberating
furnace 24 hours.
Olive Enamel.
Good 1
blue enamel 2 parts, black and yellow enamel, of
part each.
Mix.
Blue Enamel.
Thoroughly powder and mix 4 parts of black oxide and 9 of flint. Fuse thoroughly over a charcoal or coke fire, pulverize, wash in cold water, and triturate 1 part of this powder with one of flux 1.
of cobalt, 13 of saltpetre,
5,
given above.
6
watchmakers' and jewelers'
1
Fuse together
2.
part of black oxide of cobalt and
Melt over a good
of borax. of
i
minium and 10
fire 2
/
parts of this,
x
2
i
part
of blue pot metal glass.
Yellow Enamel.
Mix
1.
oxide of
of
white
of
1
parts of flux 4 to a paste with water.'
^y2
White oxide
2.
each
1
part,
alum and
of antimony,
pure carbonate of lead
1
sal
ficient to
Powder, mix and expose fuse the sal ammoniac very bright.
Pure oxide
of silver
added
ammoniac,
to 3 parts,
shade desired.
3.
1
antimony oxide. Bring to a red heat allow to cool off and mix 1 part of this with
and
in a crucible,
to
mortar 8 parts of minium,
in a stone
tin
according
to heat suf-
to the metallic fluxes.
If
a thin film of oxide of silver be spread over the surface
enamel to be colored, exposed to a moderate heat, withdrawn and the film of reduced silver on the surface removed, the under part will be found a fine yellow. of the
Orange Enamel. 1.
Red
lead 12 parts, red sulphate of iron and oxide of
antimony, each one part,
flint
powder, and melt with flux 50 2.
Red
3.
Thoroughly mix 12
powder
3 parts.
Calcine,
parts.
lead 12 parts, oxide of antimony 4 parts, flint powder 3 parts, red sulphate of iron 1 part. Calcine, then add flux 5 parts to every 5 parts of this mixture.
oxide,
and heat without fusing. this
and
2^
and
1
of red sulphate of iron,
Triturate with water
dials are
for
Watch
is
part of
Dials.
prepared with a backingof sheet copper
having raised edges to receive the enamel
which
1
of flux 7.
Enamels
The
parts of minium, 4 of antimony
3 of pulverized flint
fused.
in
powder,
After cooling, the lettering and figuring
7
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
1
are printed on the plate with soft black enamel ferring.
The
dial is
again placed
in a
by
trans-
muffle to fuse the
enamel of the lettering or figuring. The enamel used is composed of white lead, arsenic, flint glass, saltpetre, borax and ground flint reduced to powder, fused and formed into cakes.
Phosphorescent Enamel. Commercial phosphorescent paint in powder is inti2 of its weight of very finely pulvermately mixed with /^ ized fluor spar or cryolite and one-fifth of calcium borate.
The in
mixture
is
made
into a paste with water,
a uniform layer to the
They
of a brush.
articles to
and applied
be enameled by means
are then burnt in the usual manner.
Fine Black Enamel. Triturate with water
and 2
i
part of black oxide of copper
of flux 4.
Niello.
A
metallic
enamel composed
of
48 parts of flowers
of.
sulphur, 9 of pure copper, 9 of pure lead, 4 of fine silver
and two of borax. First melt the silver, then add the copper and then the lead, stirring with a charcoal stick.
Prepare a
crucible,. into
which place the sulphur and upon
the top of which pour the molten metal, and continue to
few minutes. Pour the mass over brushwood into Collect the granules, dry to form into granules. in the air and pulverize in a mortar. Niello is used as follows: the design is engraved on the metal to be ornamented and the powder is mixed with spirit of sal ammoniac to a paste, and applied by rubbing into the lines in the metal which has previously been heated. The superfluous paste is renewed by filing and the surface stoned and polished. fuse a
water
8
watchmakers' and jewelers'
1
To Take Enamel Out Take powder
fluor spar,
and pound
to cover well the article
pour on
sufficient vitriol to
fine;
it ;
of
Work. use enough of the
then take a lead cup and
make
a thin liquid.
Boil the
and the enamel will be removed. Be very careful and let the fumes pass up chimney, as they are article in this
injurious.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
BRONZING, STAINING AND COLORING OF METALS. Green Bronze i.
Mix 80
for Brass.
parts strong vinegar,
1
of mineral green, 1
ammoniac, 1 of gum Arabic, 1 of green vitriol, and add 4 of Avignon berries (fruit of Rhantus Infect orius). Boil the mixture and strain when of red
umber,
cold.
Cleanse the
and apply the
1
of sal
articles
with
weak
with a brush.
fluid
heat the article to about 200
lamp black mixed with
,
If
nitric acid,
rinse
not dark enough
and then give
a coat of
Finish with lacquer or
alcohol.
spirit varnish. 1 ounce nitric add 10^ fluid drams vinegar, 3^ drams salammoniac, 6% drams aqua ammonia. Put the liquid in a loosely corked bottle, and stand in a warm place for a few days. After applying it to the articles, dry by gentle 2.
Dissolve 8}4 ounces of copper in
acid;
heat and finish with linseed
oil
varnish, also dried
by heat.
Violet on Brass.
Heat the metal
to
about the boiling point, plunge
a solution of chloride of
it
in
antimony for an instant and rub
with a stick covered with cotton.
Orange on Brass. Polish the article and plunge
warm
it
for a
few minutes
neutral solution of copper acetate.
in a
;
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS'
20
Green on Brass. i.
Wash
the article with dilute acetic acid and expose
fumes of strong aqua ammonia, desired shade is obtained.
Repeat
to the
2.
Immerse
in 2 parts of 3.
Wash,
Boil
in a solution of i part
water
in
a
until the desired
Steel
all
the
perchloride of iron
shade
assumed.
is
strong solution of nitrate
dry, burnish and lacquer
until
of copper.
the above.
Gray on Brass.
Antimoniac sulphide and hydrochloric acid 3 parts
;
fine iron filings, 1 part of
each
water 4 parts.
Blue on Brass or Copper. Cleanse the article thoroughly by boiling in potash lye and treat it with white wine vinegar; wipe and dry the surface thoroughly and rub with a linen rag, moistened with hydrochloric acid; hour,
let
it
stand for a quarter of an
then heat the article over a sand bottle until
it
assumes the desired shade.
Dead Black on Brass. Mix
in a glass bottle 2 parts of hydrochloric acid
and
1
part of nitric acid; add 35 grains of platinum wire or foil, and place on a sand bath until the platinum is dissolved.
Apply by dipping, or with a brush. used on optical instruments. Black Bronze Brush the brass with a
This
is
the finish
for Brass.
dilute
solution of nitrate of
mercury, and then several times with a solution of liver of sulphur.
;
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
To Take
2^
Watch Caps and
Plates.
parts nitric acid, and 2 parts muriatic acid,
Dip
strength.
full
Frost
21
in the articles for
a few seconds, rinse
water, scratchbrush with a circular motion, then
in clear gild.
To Watch
Frost
Watch
plates are frosted
Plates.
by means
scratch brushes fixed in a lathe, and
of fine
made
brass wire
to revolve at
great speed, the end of the wire brushes striking the plate
producing a beautiful appearance
movement
of the
mixture of
to
nitric acid,
;
or,
sink that part
be frosted for a short time into a muriatic acid and table salt, 1 ounce
On
removing from the acid, place it in a shallow vessel containing enough sour beer to nearly cover of each.
it, it
then with a fine scratch brush scour thoroughly, letting
remain under the beer during the operation. Then off, first in pure water and then in alcohol. Gild
wash
or silver in accordance with any of the well
To Silver goods
1.
known methods.
Frost Silver.
may be
frosted and whitened
ing a pickle of sulphuric acid
1
by pre-
dram, water 4 ounces;
heat and immerse the silver articles until frosted as desired
then wash
and dry with a soft linen cloth, or in clean sawdust. For whitening only, a smaller quanof acid may be employed.
fine tity 2.
The
charcoal
off clean,
article
fire
has to be carefully annealed either
in a
or with a blow pipe before a gas flame, which
on the surface, and also destroy all and greasy substances adhering to it, and then boiled in a copper pan containing a solution of dilute sulphuric acid of 1 part of acid to about 30 parts of water. The will oxidize the alloy
dirt
—
article is
then placed in a vessel containing clean water,
and scratch-brushed or scoured with
fine sand, after
which
WATCHxMAKERS, AND JEWELERS
22
the annealing and boiling-out
almost
all
is
repeated, which will in
cases be sufficient to produce the desired result.
If
a very delicate dead surface such as watch dials,
is
required, the article
is,
etc.,
before the second annealing,
covered with a pasty solution of potash and water, and immediately after the annealing plunged in clean water,
and then boiled out in either sulphuric acid solution, or a solution of i part cream tartar and 2 parts common salt to about 30 parts of water. If the article is of a low quality it is well to add some silver solution, such as is used for silvering, to the second boiling-out solution. If the article is very inferior silver, the finishing will have to be given by immersing it in contact with a strip of zinc
of silver,
in a silver solution.
To
Frost Polished Silver.
Dissolve Yv oz. cyanide of potasium in 4 oz. water, apply with a brush, holding the article with lancewood Cyanides are very poisonous and or boxwood pliers.
should be used with care.
Silvering Copper and Brass. parts finely 3 parts of chloride of silver with 20 salt. culinary parts and pulverized cream of tartar, 15
Mix
Add water in sufficient quantity, and stir until the mixture forms a paste, with which cover the surface to be silvered by means of blotting paper. The surface is then rubbed with a rag and powdered lime, washed, and rubbed with a piece of soft cloth.
The
deposited
film
is
extremely
thin.
Silver Plating.
For rapid
silver
plating, prepare a
powder
of
of chloride of silver, 20 parts carefully pulverized
of tartar,
and 15
parts pulverized cooking
salt;
3 parts
cream mix it
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. and rub
into a thin paste with water,
23
upon the
it
After you
cleaned metallic surface with blotting paper. are certain that
rub
alike,
parts of the article have been touched
all
with very fine chalk powder or dust upon
it
wadding or other dry with a
well-
Wash with
soft cloth.
clean water and
cloth.
Silver-Plating Fluid. Dissolve
1
oz. nitrate of silver, in
2 oz.
potash, shake the whole together, and let
becomes
Have ready some
clear.
it
stand until
half-ounce
fill
half full with Paris white, or fine whiting,
up
The
and
it is
vials,
it
and
and then
ready for use.
whiting does not increase the coating power,
helps to clean the article, and save the silver fluid, filling
oz.
cyanide of
fill
the bottles with the liquid,
12
crystals, in
the water
soft water; then dissolve in
it
only
by
half
the bottles.
Simple Method
The
process consists
for Silver Plating.
exposing the
in
article,
which has
previously been well cleansed with a potash solution and dilute hydrochloric acid, to the operation of a silver bath,
which
prepared
is
tion of 32
grams
grams
following manner
in the (1 oz.,
grams
nitric acid.
potash
in
50 grams
a solu-
60
(1 oz.,
(1 oz.,
18 dwts.,
The silver is precipitated
oxide with a solution of 20 grams
silver
Form
13.8 grains) nitrate of silver, 20
silver (12 dwts., 20.6 grains) in
13.9 grains)
:
as
solid caustic
12 dwts.$ 3.6 grains) distilled
by grams (3 oz., 4 dwts., 7.2 grains) cyanide 500 grams distilled water. The fluid,
water, carefully washed, and the precipitate taken up a solution of 100 of
potassium
distilled
through paper,
water, to 2
bath to
be
is
in
liters
gently
(4^ warmed
is
finally
pints).
it
diluted
with
distilled
thus prepared silver
water bath, and the article and kept in motion for a few
in the
silver plated laid in
The
watchmakers' and jewelers'
24
minutes, and after taking out
it is
dried in sawdust, and
then polished with Vienna chalk for giving luster.
Silvering Receipt.
Care must be taken that the pieces which are dipped metal bath be treated before in the ordinary manner in a potash solution and dilute hydrochloric acid. The in the
bath
silver
caustic
ounces
made with
is
(equal
a
to
a solution
2^
solution
of 4
ounces' lunar
ounces silver
tated as oxide
silver
of
by the
addition
of
a solution
6]/2 ounces 2^ after being washed, precipitate, water; and the ounces of caustic potash
of
12^
to a solution of in
water added to
is
to bring
distilled
in
is
added
ounces of cyanide of potassium
This solution
one quart of water.
which
7^
in
nitric acid); the silver of this solution is precipi-
is
then filtered and In this solution,
to 4 quarts.
it
heated on the water bath, the pieces that are to
be silvered are
a few minutes.
left for
they are taken out, and put to dry
Being agitated, sawdust and
in fine
then polished.
Silvering Small Iron Articles.
The
small iron articles are suspended in dilute sulphuric
acid until the iron
shows
a bright clean
rinsing in pure water, they are
mixed
placed
surface. in
a
After
bath of a
solution of sulphate of zinc, sulphate of copper
and
cyanide of potassium, and there remain until they receive a bright coating of brass. to a
bath of nitrate of
Lastly they are transferred
silver,
cyanide of potassium, and
sulphate of soda, in which they quickly receive a coating of silver.
Cold Silvering of Metal.
Mix
part of chloride of silver with 3 parts of pearlash, T.y2 parts common salt, and 1 part whiting; and 1
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
25
well rub the mixture on the surface of brass or copper
means
well cleaned, by
previously leather, or
When
the powder.
be well washed wiped dry.
in
A
soft
and dipped
in
properly silvered, the metal should
bright gold tinge
alkalized, then
water, slightly
hot
Gold Tinge to
it
a piece of
of
a cork moistened with water
may be
Silver.
given to silver by steeping
for a suitable length of time in a
weak
solution of sul-
phuric acid and water, strongly impregnated with iron rust.
Imitation of Antique Silver.
The
article
dipped
is
in a
bath of water containing
about 10 per cent, of sulphide of ammonium, and then scratch-brushed with a brush
When
bristles.
tool
its
surface
afterward
becomes
made
of glass threads or
burnished
a beautiful dark
an
with
brown
agate
color.
Oxidizing Silverware. Sal-ammoniac, saltpeter,
1
part.
2
parts;
Reduce
sulphate of
copper, 2 parts;
these ingredients to a fine
powder, and dissolve it in a little acetic acid. is to be entirely oxidized, it may be dipped time
the boiling mixture;
in
if
If
the article
for a short
only in parts,
it
may
be
applied with a camel-hair pencil, the article and the mixture both being
warmed
before using.
Oxidizing Silver.
There are two
distinct shades in use, one produced by which has a brownish tint, and the other by sulphur, which has a bluish-black tint. To produce the former it is only necessary to work the article with a solu-
chloride,
tion of
ever,
sal-ammoniac; a
may
much more
beautiful
tint,
how-
obtained by employing a solution composed of
watchmakers' and jewelers'
16
equal parts of sulphate of copper and sal-ammoniac in
The
vinegar. slightly
warm
black
fine
may
tint
be produced by a
solution of sulphate of potassium or sodium.
Oxidizing Silver Brown-black. Place the
shade
is
in a solution of
articles
ammoniac and blue obtained.
vitriol in
Then
equal parts of
sal-
vinegar until the desired
rinse,
dry and
polish.
Oxidizing Silver Blue-black. Place the
articles
in
a solution of liver
Pink Tint on article
sulphur
to
remain
then wash, dry and polish.
until sufficiently discolored,
Dip the cleaned
of
Allow
diluted with spirits of sal-ammoniac.
Silver.
few seconds in a hot and dry, or dip
for a
solution of chloride of copper; then rinse in
90 per
cent, alcohol
and ignite the alcohol.
Dead White on Heat the allow
it
article to a
Silver Articles.
cherry-red or a dull red heat, and
to cool, then place
it
in a pickle of 5 parts sul-
phuric acid to 100 parts of water, and allow
an hour or two.
for
If
the surface
is
it
to
remain
not right, rinse
and repeat the heating and pickling operaThis removes the copper from the surface of the article, leaving pure silver on the surface. When sufficiently whitened, remove from the pickle, well rinse in pure hot water, and place in warm box-
in cold water,
tion
wood
as
before.
sawdust.
To Whiten
Silver
Watch
Dials.
Flatten a piece of charcoal by rubbing
on
this place the dial, face
upward
;
it
on a
flat
stone;
apply a gentle heat
carefully with a blowpipe, allowing the flame to play
all
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
27
over the surface of the dial without touching
thoroughly heat without warping the
it,
so as to
Then
dial.
pickle
and rinse, using acid enough to make the water very tart, and immersing but for a few seconds. Silver dials may also be annealed by heating them red hot on a flat piece of copper over a clear fire.
Gold Yellow
A
for Brass.
may
gold like appearance
be given to brass by the
use of a fluid prepared by boiling for about 15 minutes,
4 parts caustic soda, 4 parts milk sugar, and 100 parts water, after which 4 parts of a concentrated solution of is added with constant stirring. The
sulphate of copper
mixture
is
then cooled to 79 degrees
C, and
the pre-
viously well cleaned articles are for a short time laid into
When
it.
left in it for
some time they
will first
assume a
blueish and then a rainbow color.
Coloring Copper.
To
produce a dark-brown color upon copper, take
the white of an egg, beat
it
into froth,
add a
little
boiled
mortnum them well together in a
or rain water, and add to this mixture caput (red oxide of iron) color; rub
mortar, and sufficiently thick until the color covers, and
may
The copper articles are be applied. and simply washed; no sand must -be used, The
adheres badly. until
it
latter is
covers the surface;
it
to
be pickled
else the color
next applied with a brush is
then dried by a
fire,
the
rubbed with a soft rag and caput mortuum powder, and finally hammered with a hammer
article
is
gently
with polished face.
Transparent Blue
Damar 1
varnish,
1
for Steel.
pint; finely pulverised Prussian blue,
dram; mix thoroughly.
Makes
Excellent for blueing hands.
a splendid appearance.
watchmakers' and jewelers'
28
To
Blue Steel.
In order to blue steel pieces evenly, the following will
give satisfactory results;
first
blue the object without any
special regard to uniformity of color.
imperfect, take a piece of
deadwood
If it
proves to be
that does not
crumble
too easily, or of clean pith, and whiten the surface with
rouge without prepared,
if
letting
it
be too dry.
Small pieces thus
cleaned and blued with care, will assume a
very uniform
tint.
To Bronze Methylated
gum
spirit, i pint;
benzoine, ]/2 ounce. occasional agitation.
Steel.
When
4 ounces; gum warm place, with
shellac,
Set the bottle
in a
dissolved, decant the
clear
part for fine work, and strain the dregs through muslin.
Now
take 4 ounces powdered bronze green, varying the
color with yellow ochre, red ochre
may
be desired.
varnish in quantities to previously
coat,
required, previous to varnishing.
To Take an its
suit,
and warming the articles, giving and touching off with gold powder,
cleansing
them a second if
and lamp black, as the above and apply to the work, after
Mix the bronze powder with
Blue Screws Evenly.
watch barrel and drill as many holes into head as you desire to blue screws at a time. Fill it old
about one-fourth
full
of brass or iron
filings,
put in the
enough to bend over for a handle into the arbor holes head of barrel upward. Brighten the heads of your screws, set them point downward into the holes already drilled, and expose the bottom of the barrel to your lamp, until the screws assume the color you wish. head, and then
fit
a wire long
—
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
29
Aniline Bronzing Fluid.
A
bronzing
which
fluid
and applicable to
all
is
said to be
very
brilliant,
metals, as well as to other substances,
prepared as follows: Take 10 parts of aniline red and 5 parts of aniline purple, and dissolve in ioo parts of 95 per cent, alcohol, accelerating the solution by placing the vessel in a sand or water bath. Solution having been effected, add 5 parts of benzoic acid, and boil for from 5 to 10 minutes, until the greenish color of the mixture has been converted into a fine, light-colored bronze, which is applied with a brush and dries easily. is
Antique Bronzes.
One can
give bronze the green stain of verdigris by
covering the spots to be discolored with ground horseradish saturated with vinegar, and keeping the horse-
become fixed. This will some days; for though the discoloration will show after a few hours, it will be superficial and vanish by wiping. Three or four days will, however, turn your bronze into an antique, so far as the mockery of age can radish wet until the stain has
require
make
it
old.
To
Color Soft Solder.
The following is a method for coloring soft solder so when it is used for uniting brass the colors may be
that
about the same
:
First prepare a saturated solution
—
of
—
blue stone in water, and apply some on the end of a stick to the solder. On touching then with an iron or steel wire it becomes coppered;
sulphate of copper of this it
and by repeating the experiment the deposit of copper may be made thicker and darker. To give the solder a yellow color, mix one part of a saturated solution of sulphate of zinc with this to the
two
of sulphate of
copper; apply
coppered spot and rub with a zinc rod.
The
:
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
30
color can be
further improved
still
On
der and polishing.
by applying
gilt
pow-
gold jewelry or colored gold the
coppered as above, then a thin coat of gum or isinglass solution is laid on and bronze powder dusted solder
over
and
is first
making
it,
which can be polished smooth
a surface
brilliant after the
gum
is
dry.
Silvering Tincture.
Experiments have shown the following receipts for a silvering tincture to be excellent. Prepare the following solutions
A. 2
Two
parts of burned lime, 5 parts of grape sugar, 650 of water. The solution is filtered
of tartaric acid,
and put
in
bottles;
should be
entirely filled
and well
corked. B. Dissolve 20 parts of nitrate of silver in 20 of aqua
ammonia and then add 650
of water.
A
be used mix solutions and B together; shake well and filter. Metals and dry vegetable substances, such as wood tissues, horn buttons, Just before the tincture
is
to
ivory, etc., can be silvered with this fluid. (
To Bronze Medals,
etc.
Powder and mix 1 pound each of verdigris and salammoniac; take a portion of this about as large as a hen's egg and boil in a copper pan with about 5 pints of water Let it settle and pour off the water. for 20 minutes. Place the medals in a copper pan, resting them on pieces of
wood
or glass, so they do not touch each other or the
copper; pour the color
is
fluid
upon them and
boil until the desired
obtained.
Chinese Brown Bronze.
Powder and mix thoroughly gris, 2 of cinnabar, 2 of
2 parts crystallized verdi-
sal-ammoniac,
2 of
horn shavings
1
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. and
Moisten with water or alcohol and
alum.
five of
Cleanse the
rub into a paste.
3
articles
thoroughly, polish
with ashes and vinegar, apply the paste with a brush, heat over a coal until the vitriol
fire
and wash the coating
desired shade
gives
is
brown, while borax
chestnut
a
Repeat
off.
Addition of blue
obtained.
gives
a
yellowish shade.
Antique Green.
of
part sal-ammoniac, 3 of
Dissolve
i
common
salt, in
12 of boiling water.
powdered
tartar, 3
Then add 8
parts
cupric nitrate, and coat the articles with the liquid.
To Cover The
Spots on Gold or Plated Articles.
following recipe will be found to answer well in
removing or covering over spots on gold or plated articles where the plate is worn off. Dissolve twenty-four grains ounce of nitro-muriatic acid, and then absorb the acid with a clean blotting paper. When the paper is thoroughly dry burn it and pulverize the ashes, which rub on the spots with chamois skin, moistened with water. The spots should first be thoroughly cleaned. of fine coin gold in one-half
Acid-Coloring Small Articles.
For acid-coloring on small articles, a very good plan is them on a lump of charcoal, and make them red hot under the blow-pipe flame, and then to throw them into a pickle composed of about 35 drops strong sulphuric to place
acid to
1
ounce of water, allowing the article to remain is sufficiently developed; washing
therein until the color
the article in
warm
water
in
which a
little
potash has been
and
finally rinsing
boxwood sawdust, completes
the operation.
dissolved, using a brush,
and drying
in
watchmakers' and jewelers'
32
To Whiten Take ammoniacal
salt in
powder and mix
equal quantity of quick silver.
it
will
careful
it
with an
Dissolve in cold water
Immerse the red heated metal in this bath become as white and beautiful as silver. Be and do not burn the article by overheating.
and mix well. and
Iron.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
33
LACQUERS AND VARNISHES. In lacquering metals of
kinds, be sure that
all
grease are removed from the surface;
the
and
all oil
work should
not be handled with the fingers, but should be held with
The work
a spring tongs or with a clean cloth.
be heated so hot that the brush
will
applied, but not so hot as to burn the lacquer.
the end
Use as If
the brush
of
is
perfectly even;
if
the extreme end of the brush and very
it is
better to apply
two
thin coats than
the lacquer be too thick,
proper medium, as alcohol, turpentine, in large quantities
it.
lacquer,
one thick one.
etc.,
in
and
Where
by means
bath composed of equal parts of
removed, rinsed thoroughly
little
if
nitric
cold
too thin,
articles are
may be dipped,
they
case they should be immersed
See that
not trim
should be thinned with a
it
evaporate by placing on the stove. lacquered
should
smoke on being
in
which
of a wire into a
and sulphuric
acids,
water, dipped into
hot water, then in alcohol and then dipped momentarily
shaken
into lacquer,
and
laid
on a
dipping should
warm
to
remove
all
superfluous lacquer
metal plate until dry.
Lacquer
for
be considerably thinner than that used
with a brush.
Lacquer For Silverware. Coat the
brush with collodion, which has previously been diluted pretty strongly with alcohol. This coating dries at once and forms a very thin, transparent and invisible protection which shields the silver article ..with a fine
completely, and,
hot water. silver stores.
if
may be washed much employed in
necessary,
This process
is
off
with
English
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
34
Lacquers For Brass. lac 6 ounces;
Dragon's blood 40 grains; seed ber and copal, triturated in a mortar, i.
2
am-
ounces; oriental
40 ounces; extract of red Sandram; coarsely powdered glass 4 ounces.
saffron 36 grains; alcohol
y
ders
2
Gamboge, seed
2. 1
2^
ounce;
annatto, dragon's blood, each
lac,
pints alcohol,
%
Gold Lacquer
ounce saffron. for Brass.
Twenty-four grains extract red sanders wood in water, 60 grains dragon's blood, 2 ounces amber, 6 ounces seed lac, 2 ounces gamboge, 36 grains oriental saffron, 36 ounces pure alcohol; 4 ounces powdered glass. The amber, gamboge, glass, dragon's blood and lac should be Infuse the saffron and thoroughly pounded together. the
sanders
Pour
wood
extract in the
alcohol for 24 hours.
over the other ingredients and
this
Lacquer
strain.
for Brass.
Coat it with the following varnish: 1 part white shellac and 5 alcohol; 1 shellac, 1 mastic, 7 alcohol; or, 2 sandaor, 12 rac, 8 shellac, 1 Venetian turpentine, 50 alcohol; parts sandarac, 6 mastic, 2 elemi, 1 Venetian turpentine, Clean the article well, do not touch with 64 alcohol.
warm
your hands, and
to
C.
about 75
Transparent Lacquer. Dissolve
30 parts
2
parts
of oil of
camphor and 30
parts copal
lavender and 120 parts of
oil
gum
in
of turpen-
tine.
Fine Pale Lacquer. Saffron 2 drms., white shellac
Gamboge
1
drm., alcohol
1 pint.
1
oz.,
turmeric
1
drm.,
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
35
Simple Pale Lacquer. Dissolve
white shellac in a pint of alcohol.
oz.
1
Green Lacquer.
To of
1
pint simple lacquer
add 4 drams turmeric,
1
dram
Gamboge.
Red Lacquer. To drams
pint simple lacquer
1
add 32 drams annatto and 8
of dragon's blood.
Gold Lacquer. Turmeric 16 drms.,
shellac
annatto 2 drms., alcohol
part, elemi
1
saffron
2
drms.,
Lacquer.
Oil of turpentine 12 parts, 1
oz.,
1 pint.
Amber pentine
3
amber 4
parts,
Venice
tur-
part.
Gold Lacquer on Iron. Dissolve 3 oz. finely powdered shellac in alcohol.
Filter
through linen and rub
in
1^
pints of
a sufficient
quantity of dutch gold to give a lustrous color.
and heat the
iron,
when
color with a brush,
dry, varnish with copal varnish.
Lacquer
A
handsome varnish
may be prepared by purest alcohol.
It
a coating on brass.
for Dials.
for dials of clocks, watches, etc.,
dissolving bleached shellac in the
offers the
pheric influence that
learned.
Polish
brush with vinegar and then apply the
same
common shellac The manner of
resistance to atmos-
does,
when used
applying
it is
as
easily
watchmakers' and jewelers'
36
Lacquer
for Steel.
After having cleaned the iron or steel article, anoint it wax in benzine, using a fine camel's hair
with a solution of brush.
By
may be
protected against rusting.
this treatment, articles
exposed
to acid vapors,
Another coating may
be made if the steel or iron is covered with a layer of a mixture obtained by boiling sulphur with turpentine oil; this evaporates and leaves the sulphur upon the surface as pure sulphur, which again combines with the metal and forms sulphuret of iron, by heating the over a gas or alcohol flame,
articles,
if
small,
Black Lacquer for Iron and Steel. Boil
"1
part of sulphur with 10 parts
Cover the
article
oil
of turpentine.
with a very thin coat and hold over the
flame of an alcohol lamp, until the black polish
makes
its
appearance.
Lacquer
for Metals.
Melt one part by weight of best wax paraffine, and when sufficiently cooled, add three parts of petroleum. Mix well together, and apply to the polished article by means of a soft brush. The protecting film need only be very thin, wherefore not too much should be applied.
Lacquer Three
for
Gypsum
Figures.
parts caustic potash are dissolved in 36 parts hot
water, 9 parts stearic acid are added, and the obtained soap paste is diluted with the same quantity of water and
95 per cent, alcohol. the
warm gypsum
The warm cast,
and
repeated with a wet sponge.
applied upon few hours, is The casting becomes still solution
this,
is
after a
handsomer if, in place of potash, a corresponding quantity Old casts are first cleaned with a 3 of ammonia is used. per cent, caustic potash solution.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
37
CLEANING, PICKLING AND POLISHING. Polishing Agents. used by watchmakers,
Various polishing agents are jewelers, gold and silversmiths, a
described.
Where
few
of
which are here
the article will admit of
it,
the best
by polishing in the lathe. For this purpose the watchmaker should not use his regular lathe, but should have for the purpose what is known as a polishresults are obtained
ing lathe, fitted with
its
various attachments in the shape
of scratch brushes, buffs, etc.
Polishing
White
1.
for Gold.
43 parts; chalk, 174 parts; carbonate
lead,
of magnesia,
Powder
parts; alumina,
43 parts; powdered, 26 parts; ferric oxide, 17 an excellent powder and is much used 17
finely is
new work by
1.7 of
finishing
4.3 parts of alumina, 17.4 of chalk,
4.3 of carbonate of lead,
and
in
very This
goldsmiths.
Mix together
2.
silica,
parts.
1.7 of
carbonate of magnesia,
rouge.
An- excellent polishing powder for gold and silver consists of burnt and finely pulverized rock alum, Mix and apply 5 parts, and powdered chalk 1 part. 3.
with a dry brush.
Restoring the Color to a Gold or Gilt Dial. Dip
it
for a
few seconds
in
the
following
Half an ounce of cyanide of potassium,
is
mixture:
dissolved in a
watchmakers' and jewelers'
38
quart of hot
water, and
2
ammonia, wine, are added to
ounces of strong
ounce spirits of removal from the bath, the dial is immediately immersed in warm water; then brush with Or it may soap, rinse, and dry in hot boxwood dust.
mixed with the
half an
solution.
On
be simply immersed in case any painted figures
dilute will
nitric
acid,
but in this
be entirely destroyed.
Removing Spots on Gilding. common alum in soft, pure water and immerse
Boil
the article in the solution, or rub the spot with
it
and
dry with sawdust.
Cleaning Electro-Plate.
The
tarnish can be
from one
removed by dipping the
to fifteen minutes, in a pickle of the
article
following
composition: Rain water, 2 gallons, and potassa cyanuret 2 pound; dissolve together, and fill into a stone jug
y
or jar, and close tightly.
The
article
after
having been
immersed, must be taken out and thoroughly rinsed in several waters, then dried with fine, clean sawdust. Tarnished jewelry can speedily be restored by this process; but be careful to thoroughly remove the alkali, otherwise it will corrode the goods.
Cleaning Gold Tarnished It is is
in Soldering.
usually cleaned in dilute sulphuric acid.
made
The
pickle
in about the proportion of one-eighth of an ounce
of acid to
one ounce of rain water.
Cleaning Mat Gold. 80 gr. bicarbonate of this about 3 quarts over pour soda, and 20 gr. table salt; distilled water, and put in bottles, to be kept well corked. For use, lay the dirty articles in a dish, pour over them
Take 80
gr. chloride of lime,
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. the well shaken it
fluid, let
and
for a short time,
warm them in alcohol,
submerge them, leave them
it
in
when very
dirty,
articles, rinse
them
in extra cases,
Next wash the
little.
dry them
The
new.
a
39
sawdust, and they will appear like
in
no further use.
fluid is of
Cleaning
Watch
Chains.
Gold or silver watch chains can be cleaned in a very excellent manner no matter whether they be mat or lustrous by laying them for a few seconds in pure aqua ammoniac; they are then rinsed in alcohol, and finally shaken in clean sawdust, free from sand. Imitation and
—
—
plated chains are
first
cleaned
in
benzine, they are then
rinsed in benzine, and afterward shaken in dry sawdust.
Ordinary chains are
to
first
be dipped
in the following
mixed with concentrated sulphuric acid, at the rate of 10 parts of the former and two parts of the latter; a little cooking salt is mixed with this. The chains are boiled up in this mixture; they are then rinsed several times with water, finally in alcohol, and pickle
:
Pure
nitric acid is
dried in sawdust.
Silver Soaps.
Cut
1.
in
in small pieces 2 lb.
sufficient
rouge by
cocoanut
water to form a thick
stirring until
oil
jelly;
soap; dissolve
add
2 lb. fine
thoroughly homogeneous, and put
in boxes.
Dissolve 14 oz. Marseilles soap in 2 quarts of water,
2.
French chalk; if color is desired, add a fuschine; bottle for use. Apply with a woolen rag.
add
7
little
oz.
finest
3.
Saponify 10
lb.
soda
in the usual
manner and
add
2 lb. tripoli, 1 lb.
lead.
of
cocoanut
alum,
1 lb.
oil
with pure caustic
boil to a clean jelly, then
cream
tartar,
All the ingredients should be very finely
1 lb.
white
powdered
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
40
and intimately mixed before stirring in the soap. Pour the mixture into tin moulds and it will quickly solidify. To use, moisten the article with lukewarm water and apply the soap with a rag. 4.
Hard
5.
Dissolve 10 parts castile soap
remove from the 6.
oz., water 4 and add aqua ammonia 3
soap. 8 oz., turpentine ij4
boil until perfectly dissolved
fire
and
stir in
oz, oz.
10 parts water;
in
30 parts
fine whiting.
Dissolve 10 parts castile soap in 10 parts of water;
remove from the fire and stir in 10 parts tripoli, 5 parts rouge, 15 parts French chalk. The powders should be fine, and intimately mixed before adding. Polishing
Mix
Powder
for Silver.
intimately, 4 parts of finest
washed pipe
clay and
1
part of pure tartar.
Cleaning Silverware. Hyposulphate
of soda
is
the simplest and most effective
cleansing material for silverware; is
cheap.
A
it operates quickly and rag or a brush moistened with the saturated
solution of the salt cleans, without the use of cleaning
powder, strongly oxidized
silver surfaces within
a
few
seconds.
in
Cleaning Silver Tarnished in Soldering. Expose to a uniform heat, allow it to cool, and then boil strong alum water; or, immerse for a considerable
length of time in a liquid
made
potassia to one pint of rain water,
of
/2 x
oz. of
cyanuret of
and then brush
off
with
prepared chalk.
Cleaning Silver Filigree Work. Anneal your work over a Bunsen flame or with a blowpipe, then let
grow
cold (and this
is
the secret of success),
1
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. and then put
in a pickle of
4
sulphuric acid and water, not
more than five drops to one ounce work remain in it for one hour.
and
of water, If
let
your
not to satisfaction,
repeat the process.
Brass Polishes. Rottenstone 4 oz., oxalic acid, powdered, 1 oz.; sweet oil, 1^ oz.; turpentine to make a paste; apply with 1.
soft leather.
Equal parts of sulphur and chalk, made into a paste Allow to dry on the article and clean with chamois or brush. 2.
with vinegar. -a
3. Dip the brass in a mixture of 1 oz. alum, 1 pint lye and polish with tripoli on a chamois. This gives a brilliant
luster.
Magic Polish
Add
to
sulphuric acid half
for Brass. its
bulk of bichromate of
potash; dilute with an equal weight of water, and apply well to the brass; rinse
it
well immediately in water, wipe
dry, and polish with pulverized rotten stone.
Polishing Paste for Brass. Dissolve 15 parts of oxalic acid in 120 parts of boiling
water and add 500 parts of pumice powder, 7 of oil of turpentine, 60 of soft soap, and 65 of fat oil. The polishingagent is usually mixed with oil, alcohol or water, to prevent scattering, and in the
is
then applied to the polishing tool
shape of cloth and leather buffs, polishing
Either the
work
files, etc.
or the tool should revolve with great
velocity in order to secure
good
results.
Many
articles
are brought to a high degree of polish by the use of the burnisher, after subjecting
nary polishing agents.
them
to the action of the ordi-
watchmakers' and jewelers'
42
To The method in all the
mon
U.
S. arsenals,
The
world.
Clean Brass.
prescribed for cleaning brass, and in use
plan
is
to
is
claimed to be the best in the a mixture of one part com-
make
and one-half part sulphuric acid in a stone pail of fresh water and a box of sawdust. The articles to be treated are dipped into the acid, and then thrown into the water, and finally rubbed with sawdust. This immediately changes them to a
jar,
nitric acid
having also ready a
brilliant color.
dipped
in a
water;
this
power
cuts the grease,
Polish a
can be done nicely
cork
become greasy,
it is
first
warm
so that the acid has free
to act.
To It
the brass has
If
strong solution of potash and soda in
flat
on the
top,
Watch Wheel.
in the
and put
following manner: get a into a vise
on
;
it
place the
wheel, as far as the pinion will allow; 'then take a bluestone and water, and grind the wheel smooth and the time revolving it
in
a box with
done simply
it
with the
left
hand; wash
some slaked powdered
it,
lime.
flat, all
and put This is
and preventing the pinion from getting stained or rusty. Brush it out nice and clean, put another cork, clean and flat, in the vise,
for the
purpose of drying
and pound some crocus on a stake.
add a
Take
little
rouge, but this
is
it,
Some workmen
simply a matter of
taste.
watchmaker's file, only thicker, file the end of one side flat and smooth, charge it with a little of the crocus, and polish the wheel, all the time rotating it with your left hand; do not cease until both wheel and tin polisher are almost dry, so that you can see the polish, when, if to your satisfaction, clean the wheel off with a piece of soft bread, and brush it out. Should it be scratched, bread them off, clean off the tin, and take a new supply of crocus. Cleanliness in this a
slip of tin,
about the
size of a
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. manipulation fingers of the
greatest importance, for
of the
is
any
should be
grit
43 if
there
about the crocus, polisher, or the
workman,
the
work
will
be
full
of scratches.
This applies simply to bar wheels.
To
Polish Jewel Settings.
A
very good way to polish jewel settings to American watches on brass or gold, is as follows: First turn the setting down to the right thickness, or nearly so, and then
down
gray on a ground glass slab with rotten off the oily rotten stone and polish on a boxwood lap with diamantine and oil, which gives a nice gloss. It will also give a nice gloss on steel, only use oil stone to gray steel with, instead of rotten stone. The operator should be particular to clean off all the graying powder in each case before using the boxwood lap, and be sure to keep the lap in a place free from grit or dust when not in use; brass watch wheels can be grind
stone and
to a
oil;
finished in the
then clean
same way
as the jewel settings
by the same
process.
Friction Polish on Steel. 1. After turning as smooth as possible, dress with rouge on a bar of pure tin, using considerable pressure and very little rouge, revolving in a lathe at high speed.
2.
After turning, polish with rouge and use a hardened
steel or
agate burnisher with a
little oil.
Polishing Steel.
Take
and graduate it in the same way as preparing diamond dust, and apply it to the 1.
steel in
crocus of
by means
tin
oxide,
of a piece of soft iron or bell metal,
made
proper form, and prepared with flour of emery, same
as for pivot burnishers; first,
and
finish off
use the coarsest of the crocus
with the
finest.
To
iron or soft steel
watchmakers' and jewelers'
44
a better finish may be given by burnishing than can be imparted by the use of polishing powder of any kind whatever. The German method of polishing steel is performed by the use of crocus on a buff wheel. Nothing can exceed the surpassing beauty imparted to, steel or even
by
cast iron If
2.
this process.
the steel
moderately good temper, use a
of
is
zinc polisher with diamantine; a tin polisher
The
soft steel.
is
better for
should be mixed on glass,
diamantine
using a beater, also of glass, with very
Diamantine mixed with
oil
little watch oil. becomes gummy, and quite
day or two, and turns black,
unfit in a
if
brought into con-
tact with metal, in mixing.
To
3.
polish such parts as rollers
and
collets, first
get
by rubbing with fine emery on a glass plate or a bell-metal block, and afterward finish off on a zinc block with diamantine but for levers, you must use a long
a flat surface,
;
flat
bell-metal or zinc polisher, and press the lever into a
wood
moving For large articles, such as indexes or repeater racks, which are not solid, and spring, it will be found best to wax them on to a small brass block and polish them underhand, in the same man-
piece of soft
(willow
is
the best) in the vise,
the polisher instead of the work.
ner as 4.
mon
rollers.
Mix
1
pound
yellow vaseline.
pounds comApply with a rag or wash leather
of fine colcothar in 5
and rub clean.
Removing Rust from For cleaning purposes,
etc.,
kerosene
pitted
by
or benzine are articles
have
rust, however, these can only be re-
moved by mechanical means, such powder, or
oil
When
probably the best things known.
become
Steel.
flour of
emery and
oil,
as scouring with fine
or with very fine
emery
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. paper.
To
prevent steel from rusting, rub
ture of lime and
which
will
oil,
it
with a mix-
or with mercurial ointment, either of
be found valuable.
Removing Rust from The
45
way
remove
Pinions.
from pinions is to scour a smooth surface is obtained, then polish with crocus. Care must be taken not to grind the leaves off any more than is necessary, or the proper shape may be destroyed. Some workmen soak the rusted parts in a solution of cyanide of potassium best
them up with
to
oilstone dust
rust
and
oil, till
or other solvent of oxide of iron, but the use of such
means cannot be approved of. The way described is as good as any, and is safe. If the pinions are very badly rusted they should be rejected and others put
be out of shape when finished perform not well in the watch. will
off
in,
as they
smooth, and would
Cleaning Files. Let them lie in benzine until the metals, grease, etc., have been thoroughly soaked and then remove them by scratch brushing.
Removing Rust from
Nickel.
Cover the
stains with olive or cocoanut oil for a and then rub with aqua ammonia diluted with water. The oil and ammonia form a soap which readily washes off, bringing the rust with it. i.
time
2.
Wash
the stains with dilute hydrochloric acid until
removed, dry and polish with
tripoli.
Cleaning Nickel Plates. Nickel plates, must, under no circumstances, brushed with chalk, but be carefully washed with
be soft
watchmakers' and jewelers'
46
water and soap, with a
Any
soft brush.
tarnish or spots
can be removed by dipping the plates for a few seconds of clean
in a solution
and moderately strong cyanide of water, dip in alcohol, and dry
potassium, rinse in clean
work in clean boxwood sawdust. When dry, remove any sawdust that may remain with a camel's hair brush. Handle the plates with tissue paper. Carefully buff the plates for a finish with soft rough buff. The buff must be free from dust. The above must be strictly adhered to, in order to have good work.
the
Restoring the Color of Nickel Movements.
Take 50 acid and
parts of rectified alcohol,
10 to 15 seconds
part of sulphuric
1
Dip the pieces
part nitric acid.
1
composition, then
in this
for about
them
dip
them with a piece
of fine
linen, or in
may be the
liable to tarnish,
restored to their primitive color by dipping in
following
water, 6 or
Dissolve
bath: grains
7
half
a
in
As
ately.
the
to
sufficient
any trace
of
plunge
them immedi-
cyanide mixes well with
rinse
glass of
a
of cyanide of potassium;
the pieces in this solution and withdraw
them once
alcohol, and dry them keep them from rusting.
in the
After
the cyanide.
in
with
Nickel,
sawdust.
and the greater part of those metals
in
Dry
cold water, and afterwards in rectified alcohol.
water,
latter to
dip
this,
is
the pieces
boxwood dust, in The balance, even
in
it
destroy
order to together
spring, can be subjected to this operation with-
its
out any
be restored are greasy, they must be cleaned with benzine before being
dipped
danger.
If
in the cyanide,
Cyanide
of
potassium,
the pieces to
because
it
will not
touch grease.
being
a
violent
poison,
great
care has to be exercised, and the operation should be
performed
in
a well ventilated place.
The same
bath
can be preserved in a bottle, and serves for a long time.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
47
Polishing Aluminium.
Mix equal
parts of
rum and
olive
stone
is
oil,
When
these liquids together in a bottle.
used, the peculiar black streaks
by shaking a burnishing
first
appearing
should not cause vexation, since they do not injure the
and may be removed with a woolen may also be brightened in potash lye, in which case, however, care must be taken For cleaning purnot to make use of too strong lye. Objects of aluminium poses benzole will be found best. can be electroplated without any difficulty, and a bright white luster may be imparted to them by passing them successively through a weak bath of hydrochloric acid and metal
in the
rag.
The
least,
object in question
The
aquafortis.
effect obtained
is
quite surprising.
Cleaning Clocks. If
an American clock need no repairs, just cleaning,
is
not best to take apart but proceed as follows
a
flat
square
sash or varnish brush (new) tin
pan 8x8 inches, and say
i
inch wide, and a
sene
Wind
2 inches deep.
up the clock and hold the movement over your and with the sash brush referred
to,
it
Procure
:
apply
pan,
tin
common
kero-
Remove the pallet (verge) and allow the clock down rapidly once or twice, applying freely all the
oil.
to run
while the
oil
to all the pivots, pinions, etc.
and remove the
gum
This
on the springs and pivots.
will cut
Now to
throw out the oil and use 74 degrees same manner, rinse freely with gasoline and allow to dry for a hour or two and your job is completed and well done. After drying one or two hours you can proceed to oil the neeessary parts, but never oil clean off the
oil,
gasoline in the
the mainsprings. it
through
this
If
a clock needs repairing always put
process before taking
clean to handle.
A
it
apart, for
clock can be cleaned
fifty
it is
then
times by
watchmakers' and jewelers'
48 this
process and never injure the lacquer.
a clock
If
is
not very dirty, gasoline (benzine will do) alone will answer
without the kerosene
oil.
French clocks should always
be carefully taken down, and put through the same process, but
each piece wiped clean with chamois
skin.
Bleaching Ivory. Ivory that has become yellow, in
the following manner:-
The
may
article
easily be is
bleached
placed under a
glass bell, together with a small quantity of chloride of
lime and muriatic acid, whereby chlorine
is
developed,
and exposed to sunlight. Be very careful not to breathe The bleaching the vapors, as they are very poisonous. power of the chlorine destroys the yellow pigment upon the surface, and the article will be restored to its original luster.
Cleaning Ivory Ornaments. Ivory ornaments are quickly cleaned by brushing them
with a new, not very sharp, tooth brush, to which a soap has been given, then rinse the ornament
in
little
lukewarm
and brush a little, and continue brushing until the luster reappears, which can be increased by pouring a little alcohol upon the brush, and applying it to the object. Should this have become a little yellow, dry it in gentle heat, and it will appear as if new. water; next dry
it
Removing Stains from Watch
To remove
Dials.
black or cloudy stains from porcelain which are generally caused by the tin boxes they are shipped in, wet a piece of tissue paper in This will instantly remove nitric acid and wipe the dial. them. After applying the acid the dial should be immediately washed thoroughly in water and then dried
watch
in
dials,
boxwood sawdust.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
49
Fine Rouge. Allow
be taken up.
until no more and pour the clear
water
Dissolve sulphate of iron in hot will
to settle
liquor into a large jar, filling
it
only about half
full.
dilute oxalic acid, slowly stirring with a glass
the yellow precipitate ceases to the resulting precipitate;
drive
be very
off
The
exposure to moderate heat. will
form.
Add
rod until
Filter
and dry
the oxalic acid
by
resulting ferric oxide
and pure.
fine
French Polishing Powder. -
Mix 1 part of fine rouge with 50 parts of carbonate of magnesia, moisten a rag with water or alcohol, dip it into
Dry them
the powder, and rub the articles thoroughly.
with soft leather.
Putty Powder. Put pure metallic
tin in a glass
cient nitric acid to cover
it.
vessel and pour in suffi-
Great heat
is
evolved with
considerable effervescence, so that care should be taken that the vessel
The fumes
is
sufficient large to
are poisonous.
When
prevent boiling over. nothing
is left
white powder, dry at a gentle heat to drive
off
but
a
the free
acid.
Tripoli.
A
gray-white or yellowish powder, which
from the
shells of
microscopic organisms.
polishing soft metals,
first
with
oil
It is
is
made
used for
and then dry.
Pulz Pomade. Oxalic acid
20 parts, palm of iron
1
oil
60
parts, vaseline 4 parts. The oxide red, or fine rouge, according to
may be Venetian
quality desired. free
part, oxide of iron 25 parts, rotten stone
from
grit.
All the
powders must be absolutely
watchmakers' and jewelers'
50
Pickling Solutions, i.
Sulphuric acid
2.
Muriatic acid
3.
Sulphuric acid
i
part,
i
part,
water 8
parts.
water 8 parts.
part, nitric acid
1
1
part,
water
2
parts.
Dilute aqua regia will
4.
Acetic acid
5.
cle
water 4
part,
1
into the pickle
remove
while hot
either articles or pickle
may
if
tarnish
parts.
from gold.
Plunge the
quick action
is
arti-
desired,
be heated.
Cold Black Pickle for Brass. All heretofore
known
black and gray pickles possess
the defect that they give different colors with different
copper
alloys, while
in the case of
certain alloys they
For instance, carbonate of copammonia, gives to brass a handsome,
altogether refuse to act. per, dissolved
in
dark gray
color, while
alloys; but
it is little
it
does not attack various other
suitable for instruments.
A
dark-
which almost indiscriminately stains all copper alloys a handsome gray, resembling in color the costly platinum, is composed by dissolving 50 grams arsenic in 250 grams hydrochloric acid, and adding to the solution 35 grams chloride of antimony and 35 grains finely pulgray
pickle,
verized
hammer
rinsed in a weak, after
The
scales.
warm
be pickled are
immersion, to be followed by continued rinsing
water.
The
recipe
is
tested with uniformily
good
results.
German
Silver.
twelve parts of water add one part of
immerse the a mixture of
in
simple, and has been repeatedly
Pickle for
To
articles to
soda solution, prior to, as well as
article in this,
nitric acid,
quickly remove, and place in
equal parts of
sulphuric and nitric acids,
1
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BO©K. rinse thoroughly in water,
cases of pickling
it
is
and dry
5
sawdust.
In
all
essential that all traces of acid
be
removed by frequent washings
in
in clean water.
Pickling of Metals. Metals are pickled for the purpose of removing the
An
oxides and producing a lustrous surface.
excellent
pickle for brass consists of 10 parts of water and
Dip
phuric acid.
into this pickle,
of sul-
i
wash, dry, and imme-
diately dip into a second pickle consisting of 2 parts nitric
acid and
1
of sulphuric acid
and rinse thoroughly.
This
dissolves the zinc from the brass, and gives the metal a
All pickling operations with either hot
brilliant surface.
or cold pickle should be carried on in the open air or in
the draft of a well drawing chimney, as the vapors arising
from the acids are very luster, a
injurious.
In order to retain the
good transparent varnish should be
applied.
Pickle for Gold Alloys.
Gold
alloys, especially those containing copper,
assume
an unsightly dark brown exterior, owing to the copper oxide
generated by the repeated glow-heating during
work.
In order to
remove
this,
the object must be pickled,
and either highly diluted sulphuric or for the
purpose, according
to
the
used
nitric acid is
color the
article is
designed to have. If
working with an
alloy consisting only
copper, either sulphuric or nitric acid
of gold
may be used
and
indefi-
by either of these acids, while copper oxide is easily decomposed thereby, and after having been pickled, the article will assume the
nitely, since
gold
is
not attacked
color of pure gold, because
its
surface
is
covered with a
layer of the pure metal. If
the alloy
is
composed
of
pure gold and
silver,
ever, only nitric acid can be employed, and the
how-
article is
:
watchmakers' and jewelers'
52 left
immersed
in
it
only for
a.
short time; this acid dis-
and the article assumes the color of pure gold. When working with an alloy which, besides the gold,
solves a very small portion of the silver, also
contains both copper and silver, the process of pickling
may
be varied
given to the
in
accordance with the color desired to be the pickling
If
article.
the copper
phuric acid,
alone
is
is
performed
assuming a color corresponding to a gold-silver which now constitutes the surface of the article. acid
nitric
If
is
used,
it
will dissolve
in sul-
the article
dissolved,
the
alloy,
silver
well as copper, and in this case a pure gold color
as is
produced. Pickling
done by
is
first
feebly glow-heating the article
and cooling it; this operation is for the purpose of destroying any fat from the hands or other contamination adhering to the
article.
flowing solder, this
If it
may be cleansed from into is
easilyit
by immersing it at first and rinsing it with water; it
impurities
very strong caustic
lye,
then laid into the acid.
The
acids are
water If
was soldered with some
glow-heating must be omitted, but
to
more
1
employed
in a dilute state,
taking 40 parts
part concentrated sulphuric or
articles
nitric acid.
than one, they had best be laid beside each
other in a porcelain or stoneware dish, the diluted acid is poured over them, and some article is lifted out from time to time to
watch the course
of proceedings,
whether
it
has assumed a yellow color. When to satisfaction, they are rinsed with clean water
and
dried.
While pickling
for the
purpose only
of causing
the color peculiar to gold to appear, the process of color-
ing has for
its
object to lend the appearance of very fine
gold to an article of an indifferent alloy. Various mixtures be employed for the purpose, and we give two
may
receipts
below which are very appropriate
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Mix two alum with
parts saltpeter,
6^
As soon
begins to
add
to boiling and
The
part table salt and 6 parts
parts water, and place in a porcelain dish
for heating. rise,
i
53
stir
article to
i
as
you
notice that the mixture
part of muriatic acid, raise the whole
with a glass rod.
be colored, and previously treated with
sulphuric acid, as specified,
is
suspended
of sufficiently thick platinum wire
to a
hook, either
or glass;
then
is
it
moved
introduced into the rather slow boiling bath, and
around in it. It is to be taken out in about three minutes, and rinsed in clean water, inspecting its color at the same time. If not to satisfaction, it is returned to the bath, and this withdrawing or reintroducing is repeated
By
until the desired color is obtained.
immersions the
article is left
the latter
only one minute at a time
in the fluid.
When
sufficiently colored, the article after rinsing, will
be of a high yellow and mat color; it is washed repeatedly in water to remove the last traces of the bath, and then dried between soft and heated sawdust. In place
dipped
in
of
drying
in
sawdust the
boiling water, leaving
it
article
in for a
may
also be
few seconds;
the adhering water will evaporate almost instantaneously.
The second coloring method consists in pouring water over a mixture of 115 parts table salt and 230 nitric acid, so that the salt is dissolved; it is then to be heated until a dry salt residue
is
This residue
again present.
is
mixed
with 172 parts fuming muriatic acid and heated to boiling, for which purpose a porcelain vessel
As
is
to
be used.
soon as the pungent odor of chlorine gas begins to
evolve, the article to be colored
about eight minutes
is
immersed, and
in the fluid for the first
time
;
left for
in
respects, a similar treatment, as specified above,
used for
this
method;
if
the article colored
previously, a subsequent polishing
is
other
is
also
was polished
unnecessary.
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
54
On account of the vapors evolved by the coloring baths, which are very dangerous to health, the operations should be performed either under a well-drawing flue, or what is still better, in open air. Scratch Brushing. Articles in relief
which do not admit
of the use of the
burnisher are brightened by the aid of the scratch brush.
The shape
of the brush varies according to the article to
be operated upon.
made
spun
elasticity,
scratch brushes are sometimes
glass, with fibres of
They
objects.
Hand
extreme fineness and and are used for scouring only very delicate
of
are also
made
of
numerous wires
of hard-
ened brass and are prepared in similar form to the glass when purchased the ends of the wires are not cut off, the operator being expected to do so before brushes, except
The
using them.
object in leaving the wires connected
Circular being to prevent them becoming damaged. scratch brushes, in which the wires are arranged radially, are used for scouring articles which will admit of their use.
They
lathe,
and the wires consequently
motion
in
seldom
if
are attached to the spindle of a polishing
same
the
all
receive a uniform
Scratch brushes are
direction.
ever used dry, the tool and the
wet with a decoction mallow, cream of tartar, alum or constantly
small articles
the
scratch brush
is
of
work
being-
soap-root, marsh-
licorice
root.
With
held as you would
moved over the article with a backward and forward motion. The brushes must be carefully a pencil, and
is
looked after and the wires kept straight and in good order. If they become greasy they are cleansed in caustic potash, and
to reverse
if
they become rough they are sometimes
With circular brushes acid. them occasionally in order to change the
dipped into
of the wires.
nitric
it is
well
direction
Dirty polishing leathers should be cleaned
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
by soaking them tion
of soda in
hour or two in a weak solufirst rubbing the leather Rinse thoroughly and wash in
for an
warm
thoroughly with soap. soap and water.
The
water,
soap
leather soft and pliable.
in
the water will keep the
Dry them
thoroughly and your leathers
new
55
will
be
in a
much
towel and rub better than
any
by running the
fine
ones you can buy.
Mat Brushing. Very
excellent results are obtained
wire, matting brush at about 2,300 revolutions per minute,
applying rain water or sour beer diluted with water at the place
where the brush
strikes the
work; occasionally
hold a piece of sand-paper to the brush.
Should the
them
strike over a
points of the brush be too straight, let
hook them too much, as this would prevent matting. Always preserve the brush in a good condition; should the wires become entangled or After the twist into knots, separate or cut them out. work is matted, take a soft hair brush and brush it in soap water, then rinse it in warm water charged with a small quantity of spirits of ammonia and caustic potash; immerse it in pure alcohol for a short time, and finally dry it in piece of wire, but do not
sawdust.
Burnishers.
The surface to be burnished must be free from scratches which the burnisher would not remove, but render more distinct by contrast, and the burnisher must be kept highly polished, for the surface burnished can never be smoother than the burnisher.
Burnishing polished pivots with the
them from wearing, Very little, if any, of the metal is removed by burnishing in the ordinary way, although watchmakers sometimes use what glossy burnisher preserves
are called cutting burnishers to form pivots.
The
cross
watchmakers' and jewelers'
56
section of these
pivot
it is
burnishers matches the outline of the
desired to form, and they are roughened
pivot
smooth burnisher
finished with a
is
form as the cutting one.
by
The
rubbing on a lead block charged with coarse emery.
same
of the
Silversmiths use burnishers of
agate.
Burnishing Powder. -
A
good burnishing powder
white chalk,
is
ounces pipe clay,
2
prepared from
y 2
pound
ounces white lead,
2
y 2
ounce magnesia carbonate, and colored with the same quantity of jewelers' rouge.
said to
It is
be unrivaled
for cleansing silver.
Cleaning Rags.
These
which are excellent
rags,
surfaces, are
prepared
in
for
polishing
metal
the following manner:
Dip
and 30 parts 20 parts logwood decoction, wring them
flannel rags into solution of 20 parts dextrine
oxalic acid in
gently, tripoli
and
sift
over them a mixture of finely pulverized
The
and pumice stone.
moist rags are piled above
each other, placing a layer of the two.
They
powder between each
are then pressed, taken apart, and dried.
Cleaning Powder
for
Show Windows.
A
good cleaning powder which leaves no dirt in the prepared by moistening calcined magnesia with pure benzine so that a mass is formed sufficiently
joints, etc., is
moist to is
in
to
let
a drop appear
be preserved
when
in glass bottles
pressed.
order to retain the easily volatile benzine
the mixture,
when
to be
used,
is
The mixture
with ground stoppers, .
A
little
of
placed upon a lump of
cotton and applied to the glass plate.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
57
Cleaning Soiled Chamois Leather.
Many workshops
thrown aside and wasted cleanse
Make
it.
wash leather, which is want of knowing how to
contain a dirty for
weak soda and warm
solution of
a
water, rub plenty of soft soap into the leather, and allow to
it
remain
soak for two hours, then rub
in
quite clean.
Afterward
composed
warm
of
rinse
it
it
well until
weak
well in a
solution
water, soda and yellow soap.
must
It
not be rinsed in water only, for then
it
when
the small quantity
dry, as to be unfit for use.
It is
of soap left in the leather that allows
become
After rinsing, wring
soft.
towel, and dry quickly, then pull
w ell, and r
this
In
is
and
well in a rough
about, and brush
it
it is
frequently observed to scratch the
caused by particles of dust, and even hard
rouge, that are
in
left
the leather, and
clean brush containing rouge, est
to separate
it
it
become softer and better than most new using a rough leather to touch up highly
polished surfaces,
work;
be so hard,
will
it
leathers.
it
will
and best work.
which
finish,
all
it
will
if
removed by
a
then give the bright-
good workmen
like to see
on
their
Cleaning Brushes.
The elers'
When much
best
method
the
of cleansing
watchmakers' and
jew^-
wash them out in a strong soda water. backs are wood, you must favor that part as
brushed,
is
to
as possible, for being glued the
water
may
injure
them.
Composition
Files.
These files, which are frequently used by watchmakers and other metal workers, for grinding and polishing, and the color of which resembles silver, are parts copper, 2 parts
tin, 1
part zinc,
1
composed
part lead.
of 8
They
watchmakers' and jewelers'
5$
are cast in forms and treated
metal
is
with the
upon the grindstone; the
very hard, and therefore worked with
difficulty
file.
To
Prepare Chalk.
Pulverize the chalk thoroughly and then mix
it
with
clean rain water, in proportions of two pounds to the gallon.
Stir well,
and then
let
stand about two minutes.
it
In this time the gritty matter will have settled to the bot-
tom.
Slowly pour the water
not to
stir
up the sediment.
into another vessel, so as
Let stand
until entirely set-
and then pour off as before. The settlings in the second vessel will be prepared chalk, ready for use as soon as dried. Spanish whiting, treated in the same way, makes a very good cleaning or polishing powder. Some watchmakers add a little crocus, and we think it an improvement; it gives the powder a nice color, at least, and therefore adds to its importance in the eyes of the tled,
uninitiated.
Diamantine. Diamantine consists of crystalized boron, the basis of borax. By melting ioo parts boric acid and 80 parts aluminium, crystals are obtained, the so-called bort, which even attacks diamond. is
Diamantine bought
in
commerce
less hard.
Vienna Lime.
A
pure, anhydrous lime, obtained from Vienna.
It is
extensively used for final polishing purposes, particularly in
watch
factories.
It
differs
stances in that the effect sion,
is
for unless this lime
result will
is
be unsatisfactory.
and no more than
from most polishing sub-
not produced by simple abra-
used while It is
kept
it is
slacking, the
in tightly
corked
is wanted taken out at one lump from the bottle, crush, mix to a paste and rub on the article with a boxwood slip, using
bottles
time.
Take
a small
quick strokes.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
59
SOLDERS AND SOLDERING. Soldering. Soldering is the act of joining two metallic surfaces by means of a more fusible metal or metallic cement. Solders are commonly divided into two groups known as hard solders
and
former fuse only
soft solders; the
low degrees
heat, while the latter fuse at
hard soldering to
it is
which
ing forceps.
is
a red
In
frequently necessary to bind the parts
known as binding made of soft iron, repair clamps or solderThe blowpipe is used most extensively for
be soldered together with what
wire,
*at
of heat.
is
soldering, although small soldering irons are used on the
larger kinds of work. the meeting edges of
It is of
the utmost importance that
all articles
to
be soldered be scraped
While soldering, articles are usually placed upon a piece of charcoal, though asbestos or pumice stone is better for the purpose. Charcoal emits gases from the coal while under the blowpipe which enter or
chemically cleaned.
into the alloy of gold or silver
prove
this,
and render
it
brittle.
To
reduce a small piece of iok gold to a liquid
form on a piece of charcoal, and treat a piece simialrly on a piece of asbestos or pumice stone, and after allowing each to cool, subject both to a heavy pressure and note the difference in their malleability and ductility. Soldering Forceps or Repair Clamps.
By
the use of these devices any article to be repaired
any desired position in a much shorter time, and with more accuracy than by the ordinary process can be adjusted
in
:
watchmakers' and jewelers'
6o
of binding with wire to a piece of charcoal.
They
are so
constructed that any two pieces can be as readily brought together as can be done with the fingers, no matter at
what angle or position you may desire them. Each part works independent of the other, and the whole is held securely in place by means of nuts, as shown, and both hands being
free, charcoal
can be held behind the
thereby concentrating the heat, the same as directly
upon
it.
In soft soldering
it
article,
when
held
can be used to great
advantage.
The
forceps revolve in parts, which are fastened to
arms, by means of a hinge
joint.
The arms run through
the collars, so that they can be lengthened or shortened,
and the forceps raised or lowered as desired. The
collars
turn independently of each other on base, and being split the whole
is
held firmly
in position
by
nuts.
Gold Solders. in
Gold solders should approach the articles to be soldered both color and fusibility as nearly as possible. The
following gold solders are in general use
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Parts Gold.
Hard solder for 750 fine Soft solder for 750 fine. Solder for 5S3 fine. Solder for less than 583 fine.. Readily fusible solder Solder for yellow gold
6l
:
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
62
Silver Solders.
The tested
following hard silver solders have been thoroughly
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. Melt 20 parts of aluminium
i.
and when ture
is
in fusion
add 80 parts
suitable crucible,
When
zinc.
some
melted, cover the surface with
maintain in quiet fusion for sionally with 2.
a
in
Take
some
63
time,
the mix-
tallow,
stirring
and
occa-
an iron rod; then pour into moulds.
15 parts of
aluminum and 85
parts zinc, or 12
parts of the former and 88 parts of the latter, or 8 parts of the
former and 92 parts of the
prepare
latter;
all
of
No. 1. The flux recommended consists of three parts balsam copaiba, one of Venetian turpentine, and a few drops of lemon juice. The solder-
them
as specified for
ing iron
is
dipped into
To
this
Solder
mixture.
German
Silver.
Dissolve granulated zinc in muriatic acid in ah earthen
Cleanse the parts to be soldered and apply the
vessel. acid.
Next put a piece
apply the blowpipe to
and zinc
in
thin
it.
of
pewter solder on Melt German
the, joint
one
silver
powder
sheets four parts; then
and
part, it
for
solder.
Soldering Stone Set Rings.
There are various ways for doing this, but the following will be found to be as good as any Take tissue paper and tear it into strips about three inches wide, twist them into ropes, and then make them very wet and wrap the :
stone with them, passing around the stone and through
the ring until the center of the ring half full of paper,
is
a
always winding very
little
more than
and then upon charcoal, allowing the stone to project over the edge of the charcoal, and solder very quickly. The paper will prevent oxidation upon the part of the ring it close,
fasten
covers, as well as protect the stone.
Soft-Soldering Articles. Moisten the parts to be united with soldering fluid; then, having joined them together, lay a small piece of
watchmakers' and jewelers'
64
upon the joint, and hold over your lamp, or direct the blaze upon it with your blowpipe until fusion is apparWithdraw them from the blaze immediately, since ent. too much heat will render the solder brittle and unsatissolder
When
factory.
the parts to be joined can be
spring or press against each other, thin piece of solder
it
moistening them with the tin foil
fluid,
fitted nicely, a joint
till
may
the
Nitric acid
for
all
foil
may is
an excellent job by
melts.
The
as a lining of tea boxes,
To 12 karat and
to the
are to be soldered
and then, having placed a
be made
as to be almost imperceptible.
which comes
to
between them holding them pressed firmly
together over your lamp is
made
best to place a
between them before exposing
Where two smooth surfaces one upon the other, you may make
lamp.
sheet of
is
in this
If
the surface
way
so close
bright looking lead, is
better than tin
foil.
Dissolve Soft Solder. be used safely for gold not lower than
very
effective.
grades of gold and
The
following
is
suitable
Green copperas 2 ounces, powder and boiled in 10 become crystalized on cooling.
silver:
saltpeter 10 ounces, reduced to a
ounces of water.
It will
Dissolve these crystals by the addition of 8 parts of of salts
spirits
to each part of crystals, using an earthenware
Add 4 parts of boiling water, keep the mixture and immerse the article to be operated upon, and the solder will be entirely removed without injuring the work. vessel.
hot,
Soft Solder.
The of tin
soft solder
and
1
most frequently used
of lead.
The
position of various soft
ing points:
consists of 2 parts
following table gives the com-
solders with the respective melt-
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Number.
65
watchmakers' and jewelers'
66
Jewelers' Soldering Fluid.
Add
Apply with
solve.
much
to alcohol as
chloride of zinc as
it
will dis-
a stick or medicine dropper.
Non-Corrosive Soldering Fluid.
A
non-corrosive soldering fluid
lowing manner:
is
prepared
Small pieces of zinc are immersed into
muriatic acid to saturation, which can be
the
volume
known by
the
the zinc, also, being added
cessation of the ebullition ; after this point,
in the fol-
remains undissolved; add about one-third
ammonia, and
of spirits of
quantity of rain water.
the acid
If
is
dilute with a like
gently heated at the
time of adding the zinc, the dissolving will progress
much
more
steel,
and
rapidly.
is
This
causes no rust on iron or
fluid
even excellent for tinning.
Etching. Etching
is
accomplished by eating away certain portions
by
of the surface of the metal
acids, while the
wax may be done
protected by a coating of vious to acids.
It
according as the design
balance
is
or other substance imper-
is
in
or intaglio,
relief
required; in
relief,
by etching
the back ground and leaving the higher portions bright; or in intaglio,
by covering the
plate with a coating of
wax or special ink and drawing or scratching the design upon the metal by means of variously shaped points called etching needles. In the latter case, the points are handled
much
like
a lead pencil, care being taken to always cut
through the wax.
The work may be
color of the metal, with a to
throw the design
known
mat
surface, or
left it
the original
may be
colored
by using any of the wellbefore removing the wax.
in relief
oxidizing solutions
For single pieces slightly warm the article to be etched and draw the design on the metal with a steel pen and
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
67
asphaltum or a pointed stick of wax, then plunge in the acid or lay the acid on the design with a camel hair pencil, as
is
most convenient, repeating the applications
is etched sufficiently deep, then wash in water and remove the wax with turpentine, benzine or
work
until the
alcohol.
Where
large quantities of
as spoons,
trade
marks on
or composition stamp so
the
that
parts
to
is
work steel
are to be done, such
goods,
etc.,
a
rubber
made, having the design made shall be
be bitten by the acid
in the stamp as shown in the illustration. These stamps are easily made as follows: Sketch the design or word upon a piece of paper and when satisfactory draw it upon the inside of the bowl of the spoon with
depressed
plaster of paris.
and apply
means
it
Mix
the plaster to a consistency of cream,
by means
of a small camel's hair brush or
of a very small syringe.
The
by
plaster should be
on rather heavily, in order that the depressions in the stamp shall be sufficientlv deep. After drawing is completed and thoroughly hardened, oil it, and the bowl of the spoon with olive oil, applying with a small brush. Procure
laid
a small piece of composition such as printer's rollers are
made
from, (a mixture of glycerine, glue and molasses),
until quite liquid and then pour bowl of the spoon. Put away until thoroughly cool. This composition pad can then be removed, glued to a wooden handle, such as are used for rubber stamps
heat
it
over a water bath
into the
watchmakers' and jewelers'
6S
do the printing on any number of The receipt for stamp ink will be found elseIf all the operations have been performed prop-
and you are ready spoons.
where.
to
you will have a stamp similar to the illustration, in which the name " Aurora " appears in white, the letters erly
being countersunk in the face of the stamp. With a small roller or pad distribute your stamp ink thoroughly upon the surface of a small piece of glass, apply your stamp '
rolling back and it by The the bowl of the spoon. apply to then and forth is covered result will be that the entire bowl of the spoon with the ink except the word " Aurora," which is left You are now ready white where the silver is exposed. to the glass,
thoroughly inking
proceed with your etching. If your stamp has good depth, the composition is of the proper consistency and the ink well distributed, the lettering will need no touch-
to
however, it may easily be if it should, done by means of a fine pointed brush and asphaltum. This stamp is used with a suitable ink or wax to transfer the design to the goods and the work proceeded with as ing up by hand,
before.
In the
first illustration
shown, the words "Bridge-
and in relief, the letters being port, Conn.," are the only part touching the wax; while in the second, the word " Aurora," was the only part not touched by the wax, and consequently it is etched in intaglio and bright,
the
bowl
is
left
bright.
Almost any
of the dilute acids
may be used that will attack the metal to be acted upon, but a number of fluids are given here.
;
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Grounds 1.
White
69
for Etching,
30
parts;
gum
mastic,
30 parts;
30
parts:
gum
mastic,
15
60
parts;
gum
mastic,
30 parts;
wax,
asphaltum, 15 parts. 2.
White
wax,
parts;
asphaltum, 15 parts. 3.
White
wax,
asphaltum, 60 parts. 4.
White wax,
4 parts; resin, 5.
1
3 parts; block pitch,
oz.
;
oil,
4 oz.; white
benzoin,
for Brass.
Dissolve 6 parts chlorate of potash, 100 parts water,
add 160 parts water
two
wax and gum
boil to two-thirds.
Etching Fluids 1.
part; asphaltum,
part.
Soft linseed
each Yz
1
fuming
to 16 of
nitric acid;
mix the
solutions.
2.
One
part sulphuric acid, 8 parts water.
3.
One
part nitric acid, 8 parts water.
4.
Nitric or sulphuric acid
bichromate of potash
2 parts,
1
part, saturated solution of
water
5 parts.
Etching on Copper.
Fuming hydrochloric
water 70 parts; add a boiling solution of potassium chlorate and 1.
acid,
10 parts;
dilute. 2.
chloride,
powder
the solids
3.
ammonium chloride, 60 gram 60 gram; pure verdigris, 40 gram; and boil in the acid until dissolved.
Acetic acid 8 ounces;
sodium
Nitrous acid,
nitric ether,
8 ounces.
1
ounce;
silver
acetate,
3
drams;
watchmakers' and jewelers'
70
Etching Fluids
Use any
for Silver.
of the fluids for brass
and copper, any of the
oxidizing solutions given elsewhere, or any of the dilute
Care must be taken
acids that will attack silver.
ping out the silver not to be etched,
may
not
in
in stop-
order that the acids
and destroy the sharpness and
creep under
beauty of the work.
Etching Fluids i.
Use
dilute sulphuric
for Ivory.
and hydrochloric
acids,
mixed.
Cover the ivory
to be etched with a thin coating wax, then trace the figure you desire to present through the wax. Pour over it a strong solution of nitrate 2.
of bees
Let remain a sufficient length of time, then remove it, with the wax, by washing in warm water. The design will be left in dark lines on the ivory. of silver.
Etched Signs
Any
for Jewelers.
make extremely
jeweler can
elegant signs by
taking sheet brass or copper, painting the parts not to be
etched with asphaltum or any of the other grounds and
may be
etching as deeply as
required.
If
signs are to be made, paint the backs of the
and plunge them
wooden trough
in a
A very
ing solution.
effective design
is
number
then finishing with the
Remove
of
sheets also
with the etch-
made by
leaving
borders bright, etching quite deeply
the letters and
elsewhere.
filled
a
and
green bronzing solution given
by wiping with a thoroughly and only may be etched, and after-
the asphaltum
rag moistened with turpentine, clean lacquer.
wards
Or
filled in
with lacquer. secure an
the letters
with black or colored pigments, finishing
An
ingenious and tasty jeweler can thus
infinite variety
of
extremely elegant and ser-
viceable signs at a very small expense, beside utilizing his leisure
moments
in a
very interesting and fascinating way.
1
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. Engravers' Border Beeswax,
i
Melt y^
Wax.
part; pitch, 2 parts, tallow,
Stamp lb. resin,
add
1
7
1
part, mix.
Ink.
teaspoonful of lard
oil, stir
in a
tablespoonful of lamp black and throughly mix; thin with turpentine to
when
make
it
of the consistency of printer's ink
cold.'
Wax
for Steel.
Melt equal parts burgundy pitch, asphaltum and beeswax, stirring constantly until thoroughly incorporated, apply with a dabber or ball of cotton covered with silk, having
first
warmed the
readily melt
article so that the stick of the
by touching.
Rub
on the
and spread evenly with the dabber.
wax
wax will
in the stick
watchmakers' and jewelers'
72
HARDENING, ANNEALING AND TEMPERING. Hardening. Gold,
silver,
copper and brass are hardened by healing
and allowing to cool slowly; also by beating, burnishing, etc. Steel is hardened by beating, also by heating to a cherry red and then cooling quickly, by plunging in water or
some one
The
of the
numerous hardening mixtures.
recipes here given are from various sources, and
the reader must adopt the one which he finds on
trial, is
the best adapted to his wants. In
all
cases the object should be heated to a red heat
before plunging. slender,
If
an object to be hardened
it
compound endwise, otherwise it The same rule and distorted. objects.
long and
is
should invariably be inserted in the hardening
A preparation
of one teaspoonful of
The
of water.
steel
is
used
in
come
out
warped
applies to thin or flat
hardening, consisting
two be hardened
wheat to
will
flour,
and four be heated
of salt is
to
dipped into the mixture to be coated therewith, then raised to a red glow, and dropped into cold sufficiently,
Another method is to raise the object to the required heat and then drop it into a mixture of ten parts mutton suet, two parts sal-ammoniac, five parts resin and Oil, tallow, beeswax, and resin thirty-five parts olive oil. soft water.
are also employed for hardening.
hardness
is
nitric acid.
desirable drop
If
an intense
the object into
brittle
mercury or
In heating very small or thin objects, they
should be placed between two thin pieces of charcoal and the whole brought to the required heat.
In this
way you
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
73
be uniformly tempered. When it is desirable to harden an article without discoloring its surface, it should be placed in a metal tube avoid uneven heating and hence
it
will
or bowl of a clay pipe, and surrounded with that has been previously heated to expel
when
raised to the proper heat
immersed
in the
hardening
To Harden According
to B.
all
charcoal
moisture, and
the whole
should be
liquid.
Steel in Petroleum.
Morgossy, the
articles to
be hardened
are first heated in a charcoal fire, and, after thoroughly rubbing with ordinary washing soap, heated to a cherry In this condition they are plunged into petroleum; red. ignition of the petroleum need not be feared if no flame Articles hardened by this method show is near at hand. no cracks, do not wrap if plunged endwise, and after hardening remain nearly white, so they can be blued
without further preparation.
Hardening Liquids. If
water
F. will be found
used for hardening, 32
is
hardened by watchice may be added
about right for the sized
articles
makers and
very small,
if
to the water.
1% 1%
lbs.
ozs.
of of
cutlery.
A
train oil
and
for fine steel
the article
is
A solution
composed
of
sal-ammoniac, 10 oz. red wine,
mixture of
y 2
is
1 lb.
used
one quart of water, of
borax,
refined
extensively
for
fine
of resin, 3 ozs. of lard, }i lb.
oz. of assafoetida is
said to be excellent
work.
Combined Hardening and Tempering. M. Caron, with
a view to combining the two operahardening and tempering, suggested that the temperature of the water used for hardening, be heated tions of
watchmakers' and jewelers'
74
Thus
the requisite temper
to a
pre-determined degree.
may
be given to gun-lock springs by heating the water
in
which they are hardened
to 55°
Annealing Gold,
them
C,
F.
or 130
-
.
copper and brass are annealed by heating
silver,
to a red heat
and then plunging
in
Iron
water.
by heating to a red heat and allowing to cool slowly, either in the open air or in various There are mixtures, some of which are given herewith. nearly as many methods of annealing as there are workmen. The commonest methods are as follows: Heat to a dull red, bury in warm iron filings or ashes, and allowAnother method ing the article to cool very gradually. when at a is to heat the piece as slowly as possible, and low red heat put it between two pieces of dry board and and
steel
are annealed
The. steel burns its screw them up tightly in a vice. way into the wood, and on coming together around it they form a practically air-tight charcoal bed. Brannt gives the following method which he says will make steel so soft that
ize beef bones,
calves' hair
a
and
Apply
water.
it
mix them with equal parts stir
Then
this
with
another,
it
can be engraved
To Anneal
it
the
fasten
joint hermetically
put the crucible in the
When taken from the fire let On opening the crucible the that
loam and
the mixture into a thick paste with
together with wire and close the clay.
of
Pulver-
a coat of this to the steel and place
cover
crucible,
can be worked like copper:
cool
in
two with
and heat slowly.
fire
by placing
steel will
it
it
in ashes.
be found so
soft
like copper.
Small Steel Pieces.
Place the articles from which you desire to draw the
temper
into a
with brass or
common
Fill around it and then plug up the open end
iron clock key.
iron filings,
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. with a
steel, iron or
the handle
When
gradually.
you
drawn, but
made
key with your of a lamp till red
of the
pipe into the blaze plug, and
brass plug,
fit
Take
closely.
plyers and hold hot, then
let it
its
cool
remove the temper fully
sufficiently cold to handle,
with
will find the article
in all
to
75
other respects
its
just as
was
it
before.
The
reason for having the article thus plugged up while passing it through the heating and cooling process is, that
springing always results from the action of
changeable
atmosphere. The temper may be drawn from cylinders, staffs, pinions, or any other delicate pieces currents of
by
this
mode with
perfect safety.
To
Soften a Spring.
A spring may be laid flat and its temper drawn between two plates fastened together by a screw through the center, and placed upon the annealing plate. A small piece of whitened steel is laid upon it, to enable the operator to judge of the degree of heat. Before opening, let it cool. When drawing the temper lay the coils farther apart. .
Heat
it
To
Soften Steel.
brown-red, and plunge
Do
it
water
is
else
becomes hard when plunged.
it
it
best.
as soon as
it
not heat over
soft
in
water; river
red-brown, however,
But
if
you plunge enough to
turns red, the steel will be soft
cut with ease.
To Anneal Hardened It
may sometimes
Steel.
happen, that hardened
steel
parts
require a few finishing touches, which can not be done
because they are too hard and their polish would be ruined by annealing them, because it turns blue, and the piece then
requires
deal of time.
renewed
The most
polish,
which consumes a great
practical
way
then
is
to
cover
watchmakers' and jewelers'
76
the steel part with the oily dirt from the oil-stone, after
which is,
can be annealed with impunity, that
it
is,
the flame
with the blow-pipe, directed to the point required.
afterward cleansed
article is
To Anneal
in
The
benzine.
a Staff or Pinion.
sometimes becomes necessary to anneal a staff or which you wish to insert a pivot, without reit from the wheel. To do this place the whole moving It 7
pinion, in
part or end of the
staff
tongs, which, of course,
is
or pinion in a pin-vise or slidecold;
now
pierce the top of a
brass thimble, so that the end to be drilled will go in snug;
lamp throw
then,
with a blowpipe and small
much
heat as you wish on the article to be drilled, by
blowing directly
into the
spirit
thimble, without
in
as
the least
heating the wheel.
Tempering. Before tempering, the surface of the object must be thoroughly cleaned and freed from grease by the applica-
emery, or some like scouring agent. The object should not be handled with the ringers after cleaning,.or it will be difficult to obtain the requisite tint. After letting an object down to the required color it should be allowed to cool gradually, and no artificial
tion of oilstone dust,
means employed
to hasten the cooling.
may be let down to in any way injuring
the
ing of small articles
is
of the bluing pan.
it
same
A
piece of steel
color several times without
or altering
its
properties.
Temper-
performed satisfactorily by means Small articles are also tempered by
placing them in a vessel, say a large spoon, covering
with is
a
oil
and heating them
to the requisite degree.
favored method of tempering balance
similiar
articles.
staffs
them This and
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
The
following table by Stodart
student: 430°
4. 5
6 7
8
9 io
H '5 16
i7 iS i9
20
will
77
be valuable to the
watchmakers' and jewelers'
78
a thread in this hole and also on the piece of wire and
screw
firmly into the mainspring barrel, cutting off
it
about four or
five inches
wood
piece of
head, and
fill
drill
take out the
full of fine
any number and
accommodate
wish, to
Now
marble dust or brass and replace the head in the barrel, after
the barrel
or iron fillings
which
which attach a neat
long, to
to serve as a handle.
size of holes in the barrel
all sizes
of
you
watch screws, and the
ready for use. Bluing pans similar to the one shown, can be purchased from material dealers and are similar to the one described. After fitting the screw to tool
is
the proper place in the watch, harden and temper in the
usual manner.
Polish out
and selecting a hole press
it
down
all
scratches or other
in the tool to
fit
marks
the screw loosely,
and hold
level with the face of the barrel
lamp flame until the color desired appears. Heat up slowly and the effect will be much better than if it is done rapidly. First blue the screws without any special regard as to uniformity of the tool over a small alcohol
color.
Should they prove to be imperfect, take a piece and whiten the surface with rouge, without
of clean pith letting
it
be too dry.
Pieces
when
thus prepared,
if
cleaned and blued with care, will assume a very uniform tint.
Soft screws are sometimes very difficult to blue evenly,
but this difficulty a
slightly
may
be overcome by finishing them with
soapy burnisher.
rarely assume an even color
To overcome
Pieces that are not
when
placed in a
this difficulty, sprinkle the
flat will
flat
pan.
bottom of the
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. pan with
brass filings or marble dust and press the
fine
The bluing pan or shovel should be warmed before the articles are placed in it, that any moisture present may be dispersed.
into
article
79
it-
thoroughly order
in
The pan
be found useful for tempering small
will also
steel articles
by
boiling
To Temper The tempering arbors, staffs, etc., cult to perforate,
After having ful
for drilling holes in
drills,
which we the
in oil.
Small Steel Articles. small
of
may
filed
them
very hard and
find are
be effected
in the following
drill to its
proper
diffi-
manner:
size (being care-
you then warm it modbecome red, and run it into
not to flatten the cutting 'face),
erately, not allowing
The
borax.
drill is
and secluded from the heating
it
it
to
thus coated over with a crust of borax
Now
air.
only cherry red;
piece of borax, or
what
is
it
may be hardened by
after this
better
still,
it
inserted into a
it into mermercury fumes.
plunged
taking care not to breathe the
cury;
is
way, without being brittle, will the watchmaker will be enabled to drill articles which could not otherwise be perforated with a drill. Do not use broken broaches to make your drills as the steel in them is often burned, renDrills
prepared
in this
become exceedingly hard and
dering the metal unfit for use in small
tools.
In order to
make the quality of your drill a certainty, always new piece of round steel for the purpose.
take a
Tempering Magnets. M. Ducoetet uses the following process for tempering and magnetizing steel to be used as magnets. Two soft iron pole pieces are placed in the bottom of a water tight
vessel and are connected with the poles of a powerful
electro-magnet.
and
oil
is
The
vessel
is
partially filled with water,
poured into the vessel, which
floats
upon the
watchmakers' and jewelers'
80
surface of the water. The red hot bar is then passed through the liquids and comes in contact with the magnets. This softens the steel without depriving it of its
power
of being magnetized.
To Temper
Drills.
Select none but the finest and best steel for your
drills.
In making them, never heat higher than a cherry red, and always hammer till nearly cold. Do all your hammering in one way, for if, after you have flattened out your piece, you attempt to hammer it back to a square or round, you will ruin it. When your drill is in proper shape, heat it to a cherr}^ red and thrust it into a piece of. resin or into mercury. Some use a solution of cyanuret of potassia and rain water for tempering their drills, but the resin or mercury will give better results.
To Bend Tempered
Steel.
very frequently happens to the repairer that he desires bend a spring, but fearing the risk of breaking it, abandons the idea. In such a case the following hint may be useful: Suppose it is desirable to bend a side click spring of a Swiss bridge watch, which, by the way, is generally made of poor steel. Lay hold of the end in which the screw goes with a pair of brass-nosed sliding It
to
tongs, holding
it
in the left
hand; then press a piece of
brass against the click, bending
it
in the direction desired,
same time, holding it over the flame of a spirit lamp until the center or spring part becomes a straw or dark red color. This will have the desired effect. The fact that spring-tempered steel is brought to a dark red blue twenty times over, will not reduce it below its former temper; on the contrary, it will tend to equalize and improve the temper and render it less liable to break. and, at the
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Si
Again, suppose a cylinder pivot, or any pivot, on any of the escapement parts are bent and you wish to straighten it
by this process
:
Take
a small brass bushing-,
tit it
to the
pivot and hold over the flame of the lamp, bending
the same time in the desired direction.
it
at
watchmakers' and jewelers'
82
RECOVERY AND REFINING OF WASTE. Refining Sweepings.
The sweepings
of the
workshop contain
and silver. To 8 ozs. washed and burnt, add salt, 4 of gold
tartar,
1
oz.
;
saltpeter,
y2
oz.
of the dirt,
quite a quantity
which has been
ozs.; pearl ash,
4
mix thoroughly
;
ozs.;
in a
red
mortar,
melt in a crucible and dissolve out the precious metals
in
a button.
To Recover Gold Gold should dissolve
in a
from Mixed Metals. mixture of
1
part nitric and
Both should be chemically is silver. Withdraw the clear solution and add to it a little sulphuric Then acid; if any precipitate falls, it is probably lead. precipitated by any of the reagents and the gold may be recovered by fusing in the ordinary manner. Afterwards dissolve the silver by treatment with nitric acid and preThe residues may be cipitate it, wash dry and fuse. thrown away after the recovery of the gold and silver. 3 parts of hydrochloric acid.
The
pure.
residue
To The a
alloy
vessel
imparted.
of
is
left after
digestion
Separate Gold from
Silver.
to be melted and poured from a height into
cold
By
this
granular condition.
water, to which a rotary
means the
The
alloy
is
motion
is
reduced to a finely
metallic substance
is
then treated
and gently heated. Nitrate of silver is produced, which can be reduced by any of the known methods; while metallic gold remains as a black mud, with
nitric acid,
which must be washed and smelted.
:
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
83,
Melting Gold. In melting gold use none other than a charcoal firev and during the process sprinkle saltpeter and potash into Do not attempt to melt with the crucible occasionally. stone coal, as it renders the metal brittle and otherwise
imperfect. In melting brass alloyed gold, urge the
heat and
stir
pipe, to prevent
honeycombing. throw
into gold while melting, size of a
fire to
a great
the metal with the long stem of a tobacco
common
nut;
it
the gold into the flux,
destroy the iron or
If steel
or iron filings get
in a piece of
sandiver the
will attract the iron or steel
from
mercury
will
roll well,
melt
or,
sublimate
To
steel.
cause gold to
ammoniac and both pulverized, stir up well,
with a good heat, add a tablespoonful of charcoal, equal quantities,
of
sal
put on the cover for two minutes, and pour.
Fusing Gold Dust.
Use such
a crucible as
is
generally used for melting:
brass; heat very hot, then add your gold dust
mixed with powdered borax. After a while a scum or slag will rise to the surface, which may be thickened by the addition of a
little
more
slag or cible
lime or bone ash.
If
the dust contains any of the
oxidizable metals, add a
scum very
carefully;
little
saltpeter,
skim
when melted grasp
off
the
the cru-
with strong iron tongs, and pour immediately into
The slag and crucible be pulverized, and the auriferous matter recovered
cast iron molds, slightly greased.
may
by cupellating by means
To
of lead.
Refine Gold.
If you desire to refine gold from the baser metals,, swedge or roll it out very thin, then cut into narrow strips and curl up so as to prevent its lying flatly. Drop the ,
watchmakers' and jewelers'
$4
piece thus prepared into a vessel containing good nitric acid, in the
water
y
proportion of acid, 2 ounces, and pure rain
ounce.
2
Suffer to remain until thoroughly dis-
from one-half to one and you will yellow powder, lying at the find the gold in the form of bottom of the vessel. Wash it with pure water until it ceases to have an acid taste, after which you may melt Gold treated in this and cast into any form you choose. perfectly relied on as pure. manner may be solved
which
hour.
Then pour
be the case
will
in
off the liquid
carefully,
Recovering Gold from Coloring- Bath. Dissolve a handful of sulphate of iron in boiling water,
and add
it
to
your "color" water;
particles of gold.
Now
draw
off
it
precipitates the small
the water, being very
careful not to disturb the auriferous sediment at the bot-
tom.
You
all trace
will
now proceed
to
wash
the sediment from
of aCid with plenty of boiling water;
it
will re-
quire three or four separate washings, with sufficient time between each to allow the water to cool and the sediment to settle, before passing off the water.
iron vessel
by the
fire
and
Then dry
finally fuse in a
in
an
covered cru-
cible with a flux.
Gold and Silver from Textiles. Cut into pieces the gold or silver lace, tie it tightly, and boil in soap lye till the size appears diminished, take the cloth out of the liquid, and after repeated rinsings of cold water, beat it with a mallet to draw out the alkali. Open the linen, and the pure metal will be found in all its beauty.
Removing Tin from Gold.
Much soldering.
depends upon the treatment the •
If it
received too
much
heat,
tin
it
received in
has penetrated
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
85
and can never be expelled again. This is tin, if it is glass hard it has become incorporated. If, however, it is still soft, scrape it off as closely as possible, and lay the article in a dilute mixture of sulphuric acid and water, and leave it imHave a care to have the fluid mersed for a few hours. into the gold,
known when
scratching the
only strong enough to dissolve the the
When,
gold.
tin,
after taking out,
black spots, which
should
more
a sign that
is
but not to attack
it
tin
still
is
show
present
scrape and immerse again.
Removing Gold over
it
is
taken from the surface of silver by spreading
made
a paste
aquafortis,
nearly dry, it
Gold.
ammoniac with smokes and is gold may be separated by rubbing
when
the
pulverized sal
of
and heating
it
till
the matter
with a scratch-brush.
Separating Silver.
The
silver
holding alloy or metals are dissolved in the
least possible quantity of is
into a
The ammonia and
nitric acid.
of
high cylinder, provided with a stopper.
strip of copper, is
crude
mixed with a strong excess
filtered
A
bright
long enough to project beyond the liquid,
next introduced, which quickly causes
pure metallic
solution
silver.
The
reduction
short time, and the reduced silver
separation of
completed
is
washed
first
in a
with some
ammoniacal solution and then with distilled water. The more ammoniacal and concentrated the solution, the more rapid the reduction. The strip of copper should not be too thin, as it is considerably attacked, and any little particles which might separate from a thin sheet would contaminate the
silver.
seems preferable
The
operation
to all others for
is
so simple that
it
such operations as the
preparation of nitrate of silver from old coins, etc.
Any
watchmakers' and jewelers'
86
accompanying gold remains behind during the treatment of the metal or alloy with nitrate acid, chloride of silver,
produced by the impurities in the nitric acid is taken up by the ammoniacal solution like the copper, and is also reduced to the metallic state and whatever other metal is not left behind, oxidized by the nitrate acid, is separated as hydrate (lead bismuth), on treating with ammonia. Any arseniate which may have passed into the ammoniacal solution is not decomposed by the copper. ;
To
Separate Silver from Copper.
Sulphuric acid
part, nitric acid
i
Boil the metal in this
mixture
adding fresh liquid from time When all dissolved, throw water, settle,
stir
i
part,
until
water
is
it
all
i
part.
dissolved,
to time as the action ceases.
a
in
salt
little
dissolved in
vigorously, and allow the precipitated silver to
when no more
precipitate
is
formed by the addition and wash the pre-
of salt water, allow to settle, collect cipitate
on a
filter
and fuse
in a crucible.
Silver from Solution.
may be recovered from the spent plating soluby adding sulphuric acid slowly until effervescence ceases; allowing the precipitated silver to settle, washing with hot water to remove the acid and fusing in a crucible Silver
tions
complete the process. Or, if desired to make silver salts, need not be fused, as the finely divided silver is acted upon by acids to the very best advantage.
it
Refining Silver. After having rolled the curl
a
it
to prevent
its
vessel containing
silver, cut it into
lying
flat;
two ounces
narrow strips, and
the pieces are dropped into of
good
with one-half ounce pure rain water.
nitric acid diluted
When
the silver
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
87
has entirely disappeared, add to the two and a half ounces Then of solution nearly one quart of pure rain water. sink a sheet of clean copper into
it;
the silver will collect
rapidly upon the copper, and you can scrape
melt
it
in a bulk.
it
off
and
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
88
JEWELERS' ALLOYS. Specific Gravities.
The following table shows the specific gravities of numerous metals employed in the arts, together with their melting points, malleability, ductility and tenacity.
Gold Alloys.
Take 600
grains of the gold-bearing quartz, finely pul-
from sulphurets; mix with 600 grains and 7 grains charcoal; melt all in crucible of ample size, and set off to cool. Break the crucible when cold, and the gold will be found in a small button under verized, and free
litharge,
the refuse matter at the bottom.
To
ascertain the
amount
of gold in a metallic substance, select a small sample,
weigh it, and melt in a small cupel composed of calcined bone ashes. This absorbs the common metal, leaving the The resulting button is gold and siver exposed to view.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. melted once more
in the
89
proportion of gold
part, silver
i
and then rolled into a thin ribbon, and boiled in nitric acid, which dissolves out the silver, and leaves the gold pure at the bottom. The gold can be removed, and 3 parts,
the silver subsequently precipitated with of the
rock containing pyrites,
it
salt.
In the assay
must be roasted
until it
ceases to evolve sulphurous fumes, then mix 600 grs. of the
powder with 300
grs.
carbonate of soda, 300 grs.
charcoal, 300 grs. litharge, 300 grs. dried borax, and 15 grs. charcoal; melt all in a crucible,
and treat as directed
above.
To Prepare a good
fire
Melt Gold.
and heat the ingot
wish to cast the gold a
little
in
which you
hotter than boiling water;
next put the alloy into the crucible, and add a small quantity
of
Cast
the bar into
borax, and leave
on the fire until and after breaking small fragments, return to the pot and re-
pulverized
melted.
this into a clean ingot,
melt the gold, not adding borax this time, but
when
the
gold looks clear and smooth on top, add, for every 6
ounces gold, a piece of saltpeter about the size of a pea,, and in about a minute pour the gold. Keep up the heat after
adding the saltpeter, and previous to pouring the
few drops of gold into the iron ingot. If was clean when you commenced, the gold will roll well. Much depends upon the first rolling of the stock; 18 karat should be subjected to a very heavy strain the first and second draughts, which imparts a gold, pour a
the stock
grain to the stock; light draughts stretch the gold on the surface,
and the middle portion, remaining as cast, causes many good bars having been con-
the gold to crack,
demned, while the trouble was in the rolling. After the 18 karat has been rolled to about twice its length, it must be annealed, then rolled to the size you require. Proceed
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
with melting 14 karat, as above described for 18 karat, giving it as heavy strains in the rolls, but not rolling so
much
before annealing as the 18 karat.
The other karats
of cheaper grade do not require the use of saltpeter to
toughen; instead of which use a little sal ammoniac, and then proceed as above. When you anneal red gold do not quench it when red hot, but allow the gold to blacken Melt before quenching, otherwise it will slit or seam.
new way,
alloys in every case twice; to insure a
the same
treat solder
thorough admixture
of the
copper with
the gold.
Coloring Gold Alloys. Jewelers use a number of different colored alloys for purposes of ornamentation, so as to produce a number of different shades of color in the
same
article.
For example
red, blue, yellow and white are employed for flowers;
green etc.
for leaves; yellow for stems;
These are used
either
gray
for
or sweated on the article to be ornamented; in
backgrounds,
made solid and hard
plating baths and deposited
electrically
it is
soldered, also
upon the
used
article,
the various parts not deposited upon, being covered with
wax
or asphaltum while plating
silver or
is
being done.
For white,
platinum are used, the other colors, being
made
according to the various formulas given below.
Blue Gold. 1.
Melt 250 parts of gold and add 250 parts
2.
Melt 500 parts of gold and add 250 parts of
iron.
3.
Melt 750 parts of gold and add 250 parts of
iron.
of steel.
Melt 90 to 99 parts of copper and add 1 to 10 parts This is the celebrated Japanese blue gold. of gold. 4.
1
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Red Melt 666 parts
1.
9
Gold.
of gold;
add 66 parts
silver
and 268
parts copper.
Melt 750 parts gold, 104 parts
2.
and 146 parts
silver
copper.
4.
600
Gold,
3.
A very
parts.
parts;
silver,
200 parts;
copper 200
pale shade of red.
Gold, 583 .parts;
silver,
42 parts; copper, 375 parts.
Intensely red. 5. Melt 75 parts of gold and 25 parts of copper; corporate thoroughly by stirring.
6.
Equal parts
of gold
roughly incorporated by 7.
in-
and copper, melted and thoform a dark red.
stirring
Melt 25 parts of gold and 75 parts of copper.
This
forms a very cheap but effective dark red.
Pure gold varies from a pale yellow to a light copper which it is found, and the state in which it occurs in nature, as nuggets, dust, placer gold, quartz rock, etc. In making the alloys care color, according to the locality in
should be taken to use the shade of gold nearest to that desired. this,
Although
much purer
jprecaution
is
it
is
not absolutely essential to do
colors will be obtained than
where
this
neglected.
Green Gold. Melt 750 parts gold, 125 parts silver, 125 parts of cadmium. Incorporate thoroughly, remelting if nec1.
essary.
Melt 750 parts cadmium.
166 parts of
silver,
84 parts
Melt 746 parts of gold, 114 parts of of copper, 43 parts of cadmium.
silver,
97 parts
2.
of
3.
of gold,
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
92
silver.
This
86 parts of
silver,.
4. Melt 190 parts gold and 50 parts of has a beautiful green shade.
Gray Gold. 1.
Melt together 857 parts
of gold,
57 parts of iron or steel. 2.
Melt 800 parts of gold and add 200 parts of
3.
Melt 725 parts
of gold
and 275 parts
4.
Melt 833 parts
of gold
and 167 parts of
steel.
of silver. iron.
Yellow Gold. 1.
Melt 583 parts of
parts of copper.
Dark
"gold,
125 parts of
292
silver,
yellow.
Melt 900 parts of gold, 100 parts of copper. Forms a deep yellow. 2.
3.
4.
silver,
220
silver,
139
Melt 530 parts of gold, 250 parts of
parts of copper.
Deep
yellow.
Melt 666 parts of gold, 194 parts of
parts of copper. 5.
Melt 750 parts of gold, 146 parts of
104
silver,
parts of copper. 6.
Melt 666 parts
silver.
Pale
parts of iron.
Pale
of gold, 8.33 parts of silver.
Pale
gold. 50 parts of silver.
Very
of gold,
333 parts of
yellow. 7.
Melt 91.67
'parts of gold, 8.33
yellow. 8.
Melt 91.67 parts
yellow. 9.
Melt 50 parts
of
pale yellow. 10.
found is
Pure gold
of the early placer diggings,
in old coins, old
such as
jewelry, African placer gold,
generally of a fine yellow, but very
soft.
is
etc.,.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
93
Imitation Gold Alloys.
Pure copper, ioo
1.
zinc, or preferably, tin, 17
parts;
ammoniac, from 3 to 6 parts; quicklime, yi part; tartar of commerce, 9 parts. The copper is first melted, and the magnesia, sal ammoniac, lime and tartar are then added separately and by degrees, in the form of powder; the whole is now briskly stirred for about one-half hour, so as to mix thoroughly, and then the zinc is added in small grains by throwing it on the surface and stirring till it is entirely fused; the crucible is then covered and fusion maintained for about magnesia,
parts;
6 parts;
The
thirty-five minutes.
the alloy
is
sal
surface
ready for casting.
It
is
then
skimmed and
has a fine grain,
is
mal-
and takes a splendid polish. It does not corrode readily, and is an excellent substitute for gold for many leable,
When
purposes.
by
a
little
tarnished,
of zinc, the alloy will
used
in
its
acidulated water.
brilliancy can
If tin
be more
be restored
be employed instead
brilliant.
It is
very much
France, and must ultimately become popular.
Copper, 79.7 parts; zinc, 83.05; nickel, 6.09, with Called oreide. a trace of iron and tin. 2.
3.
Copper, 65.50 parts; platinum, 32 .02 parts; silver, This alloy has about the color of 9 karat
2.48 parts. gold. effect
4.
Strong boiling
on
it
even when
Fuse with
in nitric acid
left in
the acid for
saltpeter, sal
some
time.
ammoniac, and powdered
2^
4 parts platinum; zinc; 2 parts tin; 1^ parts lead. charcoal;
has apparently no
parts copper;
1
part
Will stand a close ex-
amination without detection. 5.
Copper, 11 parts;
gold color,
is
zinc, 2 parts.
extremely malleable and
making Dutch gold
leaf.
Has is
a rich, deep employed in
-
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
94 6.
Copper, 16 parts; platinum, 7 parts; zinc, 1 part,, Has about the color of 16 karat gold and
fused together.
will resist cold nitric acid.
Platinum Alloys. Several alloys containing platinum, of a comparativelyinexpensive nature, have been extensively used under the
name
They
of platinum bronze.
are not tarnished
by the
action of air or water, take a high polish and retain their
The
luster for a long time.
platinum,
owing
to
its
resistances, etc., will for a time, unless
again;
which
great increase in the price of
extended use
new
now
work, for
use in the arts
its
sources of supply shall cheapen
but as any jeweler is
in electrical
probably diminish
in existence,
we
is
likely to
it
encounter that
give several of the formulas
for these bronzes: 1.
Used 2.
Used 3.
Used 4.
Nickel 900 parts, platinum 9 parts,
tin
90
parts.
for tableware.
Nickel 865 parts, platinum for jewelry and statuettes.
5
parts, tin
Nickel 710 parts, platinum 145 parts,
tin
130 parts-
145 parts.
for tubes of optical instruments.
Nickel 316
parts,
platinum 32 parts, brass
652:
parts. 5.
Copper 96
parts, platinum 4.
ored and exhibits a
fine
Malleable,, rose col-
grained fracture.
Equal parts by weight of copper and platinum. Is. worked, has the color and specific gravity gold, but tarnishes on exposure to the air.
6.
ductile, easily
of
Aluminium Alloys. Aluminium, or aluminum, is an extremely light, ductile and malleable metal, which is rapidly coming into-
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
95,
many purposes since the great improvements manufacture and the consequent reduction in cost.
favor for its
can
now be purchased
pound, which makes
it
is
at 1,300
2.60,
considered.
degrees
which
is
F.,
It
ninety cents per
in quantities at
nearly as cheap as copper,
when
the great difference in weight of a cubic foot of the
metals
in
two
silvery in appearance, melts
It is
has a specific gravity of 2.56 to
one-fourth the weight of
silver,
does not
oxidize readily and resists most acids and alkalies, but
is
very easily attacked by others, especially when heated, or when present during chemical reactions, on other three times as ductile as silver, and has 50 per cent, more tenacity or strength. Much nonsense has metals.
It is
been written about
this metal,
than steel; will not rust; all
of
which are untrue.
chlorides, such as
and by some resembles etc., of
such as that
_
common
it is
is
salt,
readily attacked
stronger etc.,
by many
(chloride of sodium), etc.,
organic acids,
in
which respect
it
In regard to the hardening, tempering,
the pure metal, comparatively
present; but
it
not attacked by acids,
It is
common
of the
silver.
is
probable that as
its
little
is
known
at
use becomes more
be greatly improved in these respects, as has been done with iron. At all events, it will have an extended trial in the fine arts and mechanics, and it will probably displace platinum and nickel in the various alloys to a large extent, on account of the great difference
in
it
will
weight.
One
great difficulty remaining to be
At present it can be soldered only by using an alloy of which aluminium forms a part. Several of these solders are given below. Aluminium forms alloys with many metals; those with copper, silver and tin are largely employed for many purovercome
poses, and
is
that of soldering.
their
use
is
rapidly extending.
The most
important are those copper, with which aluminium easily unites.
watchmakers' and jewelers'
06
Aluminium and Gold. i
.
Gold 99
parts,
aluminium
part.
i
A very hard but
not ductile alloy possessing the color of green gold. 2.
taline 3.
Aluminium 10 and
parts, gold
90
White, crys-
parts.
brittle.
Aluminium
5 parts,
gold 95 parts.
Brittle as glass.
x parts, copper 100 Aluminium 7^ parts, gold 2 / 2 Resembles gold in color, and is much used as a parts.
4.
substitute for 5.
An
it
in jewelry.
alloy of
aluminium 999
parts, gold
1
part,
is
as
ductile as pure aluminium, but not as hard as the alloys
of silver.
Aluminium and
Silver.
Aluminium 97 parts, silver 3 parts. Has a beautiful color and is easily worked and is very valuable for articles in which one of the main objects is to obtain lightness, 1.
such as the instruments used for marine observations. Those parts of such instruments which, if made with other metal, would weigh four pounds will, when made of the
above 2.
an
alloy,
only weigh one pound.
Equal parts by weight hard as bronze.
of
aluminium and
silver give
alloy as 3.
like
Aluminium 100
parts, silver 5 parts.
pure aluminium, but
is
Can be worked
harder and takes a very high
polish.
Aluminium 95 parts, silver 5 parts. Is white, elastic and hard. Used for blades of dessert and fruit knives. 4.
Aluminium and Copper. Aluminium 95 parts, copper 5 parts. Patented in States by Lange & Sons. It is malleable; can United the be tempered, and is used for clock springs. 1.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
97
2. Aluminium 10 parts, copper 90 parts. This is used more than any of the other aluminum bronzes. It is hard,
ductile,
resembles gold, takes a high polish, does not gives sharp castings, may be rolled in
tarnish readily, sheets,
is
more
engraved.
easily
worked than
used for
It is
steel,
many purposes
can only be soldered with an aluminum
and may be
in the arts.
It
alloy.
Aluminium and Tin. Tin and aluminium give brittle alloys when they contain much aluminium and little tin, but those with a small quantity of aluminium are very ductile and may be used as substitutes for
tin.
Aluminium by acids.
1.
parts, tin
3
100 parts.
Hard and
not
affected
Aluminium
2.
ful alloy for
5 parts, tin
many
Aluminium 50
3.
This solders
alloy.
parts,
tin
50 parts.
Bourbonne's
easily.
Aluminium 100
4.
95 parts. Forms a very use-
purposes.
parts, tin 10 parts.
Aluminium and Zinc. These alloys are very hard and take a beautiful polish, but owing to their brittle and crystalline nature, when
much
zinc
useful
is
is present, they are but little used. The most aluminium 97 parts, zinc 3 parts. This is as white as the pure metal, ductile and quite hard. The others are used chiefly as solders.
1.
ally
Aluminium Solders. Melt 20 parts of aluminum in a crucible, add gradu80 parts of zinc, stirring with an iron rod. When
melted, add
some
pour
molds.
7
in iron
fat,
raise the heat until fat ignites, then
watchmakers' and jewelers'
98 2.
Aluminum
3.
Aluminium 12
4.
Aluminium 8
first
15 parts, zinc 85 parts. parts, zinc
parts, zinc
88 parts.
92 parts.
Melt as above.
Melt as above. Melt as
in
the
instance.
When
copaiba balsam 3 parts, juice a
composed of Venice turpentine 1 part, lemon
soldering dip the iron into a flux
few drops.
Manganese Manganese has
Alloys.
a great affinity for oxygen, and hence
has the quality of toughening other metals
when
present
during their melting, by destroying the sub-oxides. It is used with many single metals and also in man}^ alloys.
Those used 1.
for jewelers' tools etc., are:
Manganese 25.50
parts,
copper 54.50
parts, zinc
20
parts. 2.
Manganese
13 parts, copper 55.50 parts, zinc 31.50
parts. 3.
Manganese 22.25
25.50 parts.
These
alloys can all
unnecessary
parts,
copper 52.25 parts, zinc
«
to roll
be rolled
them, iron
at a
red heat.
may be added
If it is
with advan-
tage, for castings etc., as follows: 4.
Iron 5.88 parts,
parts, zinc
manganese 26.35
parts,
copper 56
n.77-
Iron 5 parts, manganese 20 parts, coppor 57 parts, zinc 11.50 parts, nickel 6.50 parts. 5.
Alloys 4 and 5 are nearly white and are much used cheap plated ware, jeweler's tools, etc.
in
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. Silver
Place
in the
Assay with Testing Tubes.
tube enough of the pulverized mineral to
one inch of the space, and on
fill
99
this
pour
acid in
nitric
quantity to occupy 2 inches more, and hold the mixture
over a flame until the acid solve whatever silver
through
passed
may
be
any
salt;
will dis-
must
be
remove extraneous Next add a few drops of
matter and return to the tube.
water saturated with
acid
and
present,
paper
filtering
The
boils.
to
silver or lead that
may be
present will be precipitated in a cloudy form to the bot-
tom.
Drain
light,
and
off the acid, place the percipitate in the
in a
few minutes,
turn to a purple color, and addition
formed 1
inch
Where
of
spirits
of
of thin glass,-
contains
it
may
be again
The
ammonia.
about
5
silver,
liquified
testing
it
sunwill
by the tube
is
inches long, and less than
diameter; bottom and sides of equal thickness. the tube is lacking a cup may be used instead.
Silver If
if
no lead
is
Assay by Smelting.
present,
mix 600
grs. of
the pulverized
ore with 300 grs. carbonate of soda, 600 grs. of litharge,
and 12 grs. charcoal in a crucible, add a slight coal of borax over all, put on the furnace, melt, take off, give it a few taps to settle the metal, let it cool and remove the button.
Fictitious Silver. 1.
Silver
1
oz., nickel, 1
oz. 11
dwts, copper, 2 oz. 9
dwts. 2.
Silver 3 oz., nickel,
1
oz.
11 dwts..
dwts., spelter 10 dwts.
Imitation Silver Alloys. 1.
Copper 64
parts, tin 3 parts.
copper, 2 oz. 9
watchmakers' and jewelers'
ioo
Copper
2.
parts, tin
75
Called white
parts.
25
tombac.
Tin
3.
85^
Used
tia.
parts,
for spoons
Copper 50;
4.
antimony
and
Closely resembles
polish.
and
8.
nickel 24; zinc'i6; tin 3; iron
2.
5.
White copper.
6.
Copper 56;
See Nickel Alloys
Copper 100
7
German
Sold as
extensively for spoons. 7.
Called argen-
parts.
nickel 26; zinc 24.
and takes a high
silver
14^
forks.
plate.
parts; nickel 70 parts;
aluminium
Tin 87.50 parts; nickel 5.50 parts; antimony bismuth 2 parts. Called Trabak metal.
5 parts;
8.
Tin
10 parts; bismuth Called
cobalt 3 parts.
See
7
Warne
also the various nickel
1
Called Minargeul.
part; tungslate of iron 5 parts.
9.
Used
parts;
nickel
parts;
7
metal.
and aluminium
alloys.
Nickel Alloys. Called Albata.
1.
Copper 40;
zinc 32; nickel 8.
2.
Copper 60;
zinc 30; nickel 10; iron a trace.
Called
Alfenide. 3.
Copper
zinc
15;
70:
nickel
6.
Called
White
Argentan. 4.
Copper 50;
German silver; very
nickel 20; zinc 30.
malleable and takes a high polish.
Copper 50; nickel 26; zinc Takes a high polish. silver. 5.
6.
Copper 50;
nickel 50; zinc
malleable and takes a high polish. substitute for silver.
Closely resembles
24.
50.
Very white and
Recommended
as a
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Copper 30;
7-
IOI
Said to be the
nickel 36; zinc 34.
Chinese formula for white copper.
Copper 41;
8.
2^;
nickel 32; iron
24^.
zinc
Sil-
very white, sonorous, malleable and ductile. Takes a high polish. Said to equal the Chinese white copper.
Alloy for Compensation Balances.
Berguet used ing alloy: zinc
1
it
on the
to
compensation balances the follow-
by weight; copper 2 parts; and throw in the zinc, stirring the metals and leaving
2 parts,
First melt the silver,
part.
reduced
for his
Silver,
small pieces, as short
fire for
a time
to prevent
possible,
as
the volatilization of the latter metal; then pour
it out and Melt the copper and add the cold alloy, stirring the three together until intimately mixed, Pour out, cut into pieces, and smelt anew, to obtain a perfect
let
it
get cold.
Be
incorporation.
however,
careful,
as short a time as possible over the
This alloy
dissipates easily.
and quickly smelts much hammering.
in
the
is
to leave
fire,
the alloy
because the zinc
hard, elastic, very ductile,
furnace.
does not stand
It
Bell Metals.
Copper 72, tin 26^, iron \]/2 gongs of French clocks. 1.
2.
Copper
78,
tin
22 parts.
Used
for the
for large
gongs,
parts.
Used
bells, etc. 3. Copper 60, tin 24, zinc 9, iron Kanes or Japanese gongs of the first
3.
Used
quality,
for
Kara
and also for
small bells. 4.
Copper 60, tin Kara Kanes.
quality
15, zinc
3,
lead
8.
For
second
2
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
It)
5.
bells
Copper
60, tin 18, zinc 6, lead 12, iron 3.
For large
and third quality Kara Kanes.
6.
Copper
7.
Copper
17, tin 80,
Copper
100, tin
72, tin 25.56, silver 1.44.
bismuth
3.
For clock
bells.
For white
table
bells. 8.
duct very 9.
20.
Melt under charcoal.
Pro-
fine.
Copper
1,
tin
3.
Soft, for musical bells.
Bluish
red. 10.
Copper
1, tin 4.
Ash
gray.
For house
bells.
Black Bronze. copper 83 parts, lead 10 parts, zinc 2 parts. Castings made of this alloy, when heated in a muffle after finishing, quickly assume a dead black appearance, which
Tin
5 parts,
is
not a scale or coating, but
is
much used
in
is
inherent in the metal.
Japanese bronze objects of
It
art, statuettes,
etc.
Violet Bronze.
antimony 25 parts. Has a violet tinge to the shade of the copper according of variable shade
Copper 75
parts,
and the proportions
of antimony.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
IO3
SPRINGS. Balances.
A
gold balance
latter
is
The
preferable to a steel balance.
metal has the advantage of being less affected by
alteration of temperature, but,
denser than steel and
is
on the other hand, gold
is
not liable to rust or magnetize.
Balance Spring.
The
study of the balance must be of the greatest im-
portance to the watchmaker, because with
it
chiefly
able to control the rate of the watch.
The
vantage of
it
an overcoil spring
is
action on both sides, and the balance
that
pivots
is
distends
and
all
The Breguet
spring, in
common
other forms in which the outer
coil
in
are thereby
relieved of the side pressure given with the ordinary spring.
he
great ad-
flat
with the helical returns towards
the center, offers opportunities of obtaining isochronism
by slightly varying the character of the curve described by the outer coil, and thereby altering its power of resistance.
Caution About Breguet Springs.
A
Breguet spring should never be applied to a watch It is perhaps the best form of spring for
with an index.
a pocket watch, having
all
the properties in action of the
and the great advantage of flatness in form, but any attempts at producing a good timekeeper with this spring and curb pins will end in failure. And cylindrical spring,
any attempt
at getting
outer
the
is
coil of
mere jobbing,
flat
time
in
positions
by pressing the
spring against the outer or inner pin
and, even
if
successful,
would require
to
watchmakers' and jewelers'
104
be repeated every time the balance had to be taken out. For flat springs with regulators it would be highly advisable to pin a spring into the collet, in order to get the stud
hole and curb pins to correspond.
The end
of the
over
of a Breguet spring should run into hole in the stud
coil
before being pinned
in,
and
cock without the balance hole
is in
it
if
the stud
is
screwed
be seen
will easily
if
spring
the center of the' hole in the
into the
the jewel
collet, as
it
This spring should also be pinned at equal
should be. turns.
To Demagnetize Remove in lathe,
roller
a Balance and Hairspring.
and hair-spring
not affected).
(if
hold a magnet quite close at
balance rapidly; then gradually to a distance of a foot or
more.
draw
Put
first,
revolving the
the
magnet away
Keep
the speed up
all
the time.
To
Prevent Rust.
It is well known that the rusting of bright steel goods due to the precipitation of the moisture and the air upon it. This may be obviated by keeping the air surrounding the goods dry, and a saucer of powdered quicklime placed
is
in
an ordinary show case will usually suffice to prevent
the rusting of the cutlery exhibited therein.
To
Prevent Rusty Hairsprings.
Brush the outside springs, with olive
oil
of the
—
paper parcel, containing the
a small quantity only.
Relation of Mainspring to Barrel.
we
wish to have a mainspring theoretically adjusted, there is no better method than simply to allow one-third empty space, one-third for the barrel arbor and the If
remainder for the spring.
When
a spring
is
at rest
on
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. the barrel, at either side of the arbor
it
105 should occupy
one-sixth of the barrel's inside diameter. barrel into sixty equal parts, barrel arbor
just
is
we
shall
twenty of these
If
we
parts.
It is
mistake to have a barrel arbor too small, for is
the case
is at all
cheap
class of
a great
when such
almost sure to break the mainspring
it is
center
divide a
always see that the
stubborn, as
mainsprings
if
the
very often the case with the the market.
is
in
Hardening Gold Springs.
To
gold detent, thermometer, suspension and balance
springs can be imparted a high degree of elasticity. Roll-
ing hardens them, but they are rendered very
They can be made
thereby.
brittle
and elastic, not bj' hardening, as in the case of steel, but by annealing, care being taken not to exceed a certain degree of heat. The spring may be coiled on a block and placed in a tube, with a smooth steel lid; then heat the tube in the flame of a spirit lamp, and as soon as the steel is of a blue temper, remove the flame and allow the whole to cool. pliable
Isochronism of Balance Springs.
The
balance spring, of whatever form, to be isochro-
nous must
satisfy the following conditions:
Its
center of
gravity must always be on the axis of the balance, and
must expand and contract with that properly
chronism
When
axis.
made
—
the tension,
the pivots.
spring
that
is,
and
M.
it
its
in
it
the vibrations concentrically
these conditions are secured in a it
will
possess the quality of iso-
force will increase in proportion to
any lateral pressure on memoir, demonstrates these
will not exert
Phillips, in his
conditions, and proves theoretically that the terminal curves deduced with the view of satisfying the one condition, verify at the
same time the
other.
watchmakers' and jewelers'
io6
WHEELS AND To Bush
A
watch
a Wheel.
will frequently
properly centered
PINIONS. because a wheel
stop,
whereby one
in itself,
is
im-
side will gear too
deep, the other too shallow, into the pinion driven by
Such a wheel
likely
of the
is
teeth, but the difficulty to
its
:
of a silver half dollar, will
lit
into
American
Screw
lathe.
the size and a will
and
trifle fit
fitted r
lead of about the thickness
and
round so that it chuck of an the lathe, and while
file it
in a step
fast into
it
a hole of about
drill
Then with
winding arbor.
it
clip
it.
and has good
be found an easy wa}
will
one of the larger steps
revolving, center
so that
and
size,
proper centering, when
The following Take a piece of
pinion.
of correction
is its
proper
the size of a
a graver, turn
out a recess,
more than the thickness
of the wheel,
in exact,
with
teeth touching the out-
its
its pinion, and bush of sufficient length, which should be firmly riveted in and filed smooth on the lower sides. Turn a small groove around the out-
side of the cut.
Drive the wheel from
broach out the center, so as
side of
the cut in the lead,
little
the
to be turned
same
pinion.
crowd This
burnisher set as a gavel. true on the outside.
to take
Now
and with
a
in
the wheel, with a
fixes the
center a fine
and
wheel perfectly leaving a
drill,
polished graver, to
Rivet on, and your wheel
is all
fit
right.
Scape-Wheel Teeth.
Among
other differences between English and Swiss
watches are the shapes of their scape- wheels; the former
are
pointed,
while
the
latter
those of
employ the
socalled club-tooth, and' experience has demonstrated that
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. the pointed tooth
is
better than
because of the adhesion of
ferior, is
when
all is
The
the latter.
reason
prove to be
that club-teeth for lever scape-wheels,
surfaces
107
in-
the nearly parallel
introduced; the increased inertia also
It will be found on comparing the two wheels, that the club-tooth will give the largest vibration of the two without oil, and when the oil is fresh, be-
being detrimental.
cause there is
is
less
drop;
counteracts
its
when
but this adhesion,
thick, together with the
the
oil
more than
increased inertia,
advantages.
Putting Teeth Into Wheels.
To '
put
in teeth in
tailing or soldering
watch or clock wheels without dovethem,
a hole
drill
somewhat wider
than the tooth, square through the plate, a the base of the tooth.
square
down
to the hole already
piece of wire so as to
and with a into
the
light
as to
little
below
of the wheel,
then flatten a
drilled;
snugly into the cut of the saw, a
head on
it
like the
head
thus prepared, press the wire or pin
empty space
hole drilled
fit
hammer form
When
of a pin.
Cut from the edge
of the wheel, the
head
filling
the
through the plate, and then projecting out so
form the tooth; then with a sharp pointed graver
cut a small groove each side of the pin from the edge of
the wheel
hammer
down
to the
hole,
and with a blow
spread the face of the pin so as to
fill
of
your
the groove
Repeat the same operation on the other side wheel and finish off in the usual way. The tooth will be found perfectly rivited in on every side and as strong as the original one, while in appearance it will be just cut.
of the
equal to the best dovetailed job.
To The
Grind
stoning
bluestone
is
down
Down
Plates or Wheels.
of plates or
wheels with emery or
rather a tedious job, especially for him
who
watchmakers' and jewelers'
io8
has much of it to do. It can be made easier, however, by using a little soap. The work is more rapidly performed and finer stoning is obtained.
Butting.
The tendency of when coming into
pinion leaves to butt the wheel tooth
contact
is
caused either by the bad
shape of the teeth or the leaves, or by using a pinion of an improper size, or by the wheel and pinion being placed at
an incorrect distance from each other.
To Remedy Worn Turn the leaves or them will be toward in that position.
If
rollers so that the
worn
places
upon them
the arbor or shaft and fasten they are " rolling pinions," and can-
not be secured otherwise, little
Pinions.
it
will
be better to do
it
with a
soft solder.
To Tighten
a Canon Pinion.
The canon
pinion is sometimes too loose upon the cenGrasp the arbor lightly with a pair of cuttingnippers, and by a single turn of the nippers around the
ter arbor.
arbor, cut or raise a small thread thereon.
Pinion Diameter.
The
following are excellent rules for determining the
correct diameter of a pinion
by measuring
teeth of
wheel that
The
used below,
seizes
into
it.
term, full,
the
measure from outside to outside of the teeth named, and the term center the measure from the center of one tooth to the center of the other tooth named, inclusive. For diameter of a pinion of 15 leaves meas-
indicates full
ure,
with calipers,
wheel,
full.
a shade
For diameter
less
then 6
of a pinion
measure, with calipers, a shade
less
teeth of
of the
14 leaves
than 6 teeth of the
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. wheel, center.
For diameter
of
IO9
a pinion of 12
leaves
measure, with calipers, 5 teeth of the wheel, center. For diameter of a pinion of 10 leaves measure, with calipers, 4
teeth
of
the wheel,
full.
For
diameter
of
a
9 leaves measure, with calipers, a little less For diameter of a 4 teeth of the wheel, full. pinion of 8 leaves measure, with calipers, a little less than pinion of
than
For diameter of a pinion 4 teeth of the wheel, center. of 7 leaves measure, with calipers, a little less than 3
teeth
of
the wheel,
6 leaves, measure with center.
For diameter
full.
For diameter
calipers, 3
of a pinion of 5
leaves,
with calipers, 3 teeth of the wheel, center. rule, pinions that lead, as
in
of a pinion
teeth of the Wheel,
As
the hour wheel,
measure a general
should be
somewhat larger than those that drive,and pinions of clocks generally be somewhat larger proportionally
should
than those of watches.
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
IIO
JEWELS. New The bad to
Jewels.
action of a watch
imperfect
The
jewels.
may
frequently
be traced
repairer should
watch taken down
carefully
examine every jewel and if he finds one with the hole too large, or out of round, that is much wider in one direction than in another, it should be replaced by a good one, in the following manner: If the depth is correct, notice whether in a
for repairs,
above or below the surface of the plate; if it it out and cement the plate or bridge on a chuck in the lathe, being careful to get it on true by By means of a the hole lately occupied by the jewel. burnisher raise the burr that holds the jewel in, and if a jewel can be found of the proper size and thickness, and the jewel is
either,
is
then knock
the hole not to large,
the burnisher;
if
it
can be readily " rubbed
the hole
is
too small,
it
in "
with
can be opened.
cemented should have a hole from a quarter to a half an inch deep in its center. If no jewels can be found of the right size and thickness,
The chuck on which
select
one a
little
is
and then proceed
to fasten
If
it.
the
broken, of course the same remarks apply to
replacing
with a good one.
it
watchmaker has
to
find one, the hole of
which
is
the center,
it
difficulty in
supplied by
lot
a jewel
One
contend with,
from the indifferent If
is
too large, enlarge the hole sufficiently
to put the jewel in
jewel
the article
is in
not true, or rather,
must be cemented
which the
selecting a jewel
some
dealers,
is
to
the center of the jewel. if
the hole in
into a
chuck
it
is
not in
in the lathe,
trued up by the hole, then turned off with a diamond
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. cutter,
Ill
and the chamfer carefully trued up and polished it can be turned down to fit the
again; while in the lathe hole in the setting.
The
the plate with alcohol.
have
to be
turned up to
In
shellac
many
is
be removed from
to
instances a chuck will
job to be done.
suit the particular
Care must be taken in opening., or the jewel will break or chip around the hole. The corners must be carefully rounded by a piece of wire larger than the hole, the end of which is conical. It will take but a moment to do this, but
if
care
not taken too
is
much
will
be taken
off.
Replace a Broken Foot Jewel.
Remove
the broken jewel from the collet or setting;
place the collet or setting in one large a
enough
to hold the
burnisher
fine-pointed
receive a
new
of
your lathe-chucks, and with
start in motion,
raise
the
bezel sufficient
jewel; select a jewel to
setting, replace in
isher close
same;
down
chuck, and with a
to
both pivot and
fit
little
larger burn-
the bezel on pivot, and your job
is
com-
plete.
To Test
the Quality of
Watch
Jewels.
Place the jewel on a piece of charcoal, and with the
blow-pipe and If
the stone
is
will not affect
lamp bring it to a bright cherry red. perfect and of the proper density, the heat spirit
it;
otherwise, the heat will bring out the
imperfections, which can easily be detected with a double lens glass.
To
ascertain
if
a jewel hole
is
perfectly pol-
your work board and hold the jeweled plate about two inches above the paper and parallel to it, so as to allow the light to pass between the plate and the paper; shade the jewel with a small ring to prevent the light from reflecting from the top of the stone, and with your double lens glass look
ished, place a piece of white paper on
straight through the jewel hole to the paper.
If
it
is
watchmakers' and jewelers'
112
perfectly polished
around
it
will
appear to have a fine black ring If the jewel is a ruby or
the inside of the hole.
a garnet, use black paper instead of white.
Ruby If it is
tum
Pin.
necessary to tighten a ruby pin, set
varnish.
It will
become hard
be much firmer and better than
in
in a
it
in asphal-
few minutes, and
gum
shellac as gen-
erally used.
Removing Jewels. Jewels can be removed from full plates by putting the plate into a glass tumbler and pouring on nitric acid. The jewels will
Wash
become
loose and drop out after a
the jewels well with a
little
little
soda or ammonia.
time.
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
II3
PIVOTS AND STAFFS. To Measure Length The proper way to take off
first,
to
measure
for the length of staff
both end stones,
properly to the plate
of Staff.
(level, etc.),
fit
is,
the balance cock
and screw
it
fast in its
Then, with the degree gauge, take the measure from the outside of one hole jewel to the outside of the other one, and to this add the amount of end shake the staff is to have, which gives the exact length of the staff between the extreme ends of the pivots. The length should be such that when- one pivot rests against its end place.
stone the top pivot shall of
its
come level with the outer surface same when resting on the other
hole jewel, and the
The end shake should be equal to the distance from the outer surface of the hole jewel to the adjacent If this surface of its end stone when fastened in place. distance is neither too great nor small (the jewels must pivot.
not touch), the end shake will be correct.
A
safe
way
measure from the surface of the sink in which the bottom end stone fitting rests, to Then, having the top surface of the balance cock. screwed on one of the end stones, shorten up either or for length
is
to take the outside
both pivots of the finished
end
staff a trifle, to
bring the top
of the other pivot level with the surface of
its
hole
jewel as before explained.
Shape
of Pivots.
Pivots must be hard, round and well polished; their shoulders are to be
rounded
off so that
flat,
not too large, with ends well
they do not wear the cap jewel.
The
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
114
jewel holes must be round, smooth and not larger than is requisite for the free motion of the pivot which is sur-
rounded with
oil.
Their sides must be parallel to those of
the pivots, so that they sustain the pressure of the pivot The holes, if of equally at all points of their length. brass or gold, must have been
hammered
sufficiently hard,
so that the pores of the metal are closed to prevent too It is well if the oil sinks are of a size that rapid a wear. will
too
accommodate a sufficient quantity of oil, which, if would soon dry out or become thickened with
little,
The under turnings in such a way that
the worn-off particles of the metal. conical, but
of the pinion leaves are
the thicker part be nearest to the pivot, because by this disposition the oil is retained at the pivot by attraction,
and does not seek to spread into the pinion leaves, as is often the case, especially with flat watches in which this provision
frequently slighted.
is
Friction of the Train Pivots. It is
very important
pivots to a
minimum
to
reduce the
quantity,
and
friction of the
to
make
it
wheel
constant so
power be transmitted with the greatest uniformity to the pendulum, which is necessary
that the motive
possible
to enable the latter to maintain
The
its
arc of oscillation of the
due to the pressure of the motive power and the weight of the wheels. The wheel work nearest the motive power must
same magnitude.
friction of the pivots is
have strong pivots so that they possess ance, neither wear the pivot holes to one
sufficient resist-
side nor enlarge
would be increased and at the same time alter the true point of engagement. In tenor with the distance of the wheels from the motive power, the thickness of their pivots must decrease because these latter sustain less pressure, and are subject to a greater
them, by which the
velocity than the
friction
first parts.
n^
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. Barrel Arbor.
In the absence of a suitable tap or screw plate, when turning in a Swiss barrel arbor, if the collet is good it may be used as a plate. Soften the collet and file two slight
passages across the threads with a
nered
file;
screw a piece
of brass wire
fine three-cor-
through the
collet,
so as to free the threads from burr; then re-harden the collet and cut the screw on the arbor with it. pair of
A
with faces curved to suit the collet are used to hold it. In an emergency the old arbor may be prepared for use as a tap if the old collet is not available. pliers
1
watchmakers' and jewelers'
10
DRILLS AND DRILLING. Diamond Drill a hole
or
and Gravers.
Drills
a notch in the end of a piece of
file
wire to correspond with the fragment of diamond;
"brass
heat the end in a sealing
wax
set the
diamond
Diamond
spirit
lamp and lay
or shellac.
drills
When
in position
on a piece of good
it
commences
to melt,
and leave the whole
to cool.
this
commonly mounted at the end of point filed off; mark a point on the
are very
a pin that has had it end with a graver and drill the hole, which should be very shallow. Holding the pin in a pin vise, with its point projecting about one-tenth of an inch, heat the vise in a lamp, and proceed as above explained.
To Make your
Hard
Drill into
oval
drill
in
Steel.
form, instead of the usual
pointed shape, and temper as hard as
it
will
bear without
breaking; then roughen the surface where you desire to drill
with a
little
diluted muriatic acid, and, instead of
oil,
use turpentine or kerosene, in which a little gum camphor has been dissolved, with your drill. In operating, keep the pressure on your
bottom so the
firm and steady; and
drill
of the hole should drill
will not
act,
chance
as
to
if
the
become burnished,
sometimes happens, again
roughen with diluted acids as before; then clean out the hole carefully and proceed again.
The Rose The and
is
rose cutter
is
Cutter.
quite a valuable adjunct to a lathe,
fixed to the spindle in the
same manner as a chuck,
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. and
Il7
be found exceedingly useful for quickly reducing
will
pieces of wire for screws,
etc., to
a gauge.
For screws,
the wire should be of a proper size for the screw heads,
and a cutter selected with a hole the size of the finished The point of the wire is rounded to enter the screw. hole of the cutter, against which it is forced by the back center of the lathe, the serrated face of the cutter rapidly cutting
away
the superfluous metal, the part intended for
the screw passes into the hole in the cutter. is
Some
required in rounding the point of the wire, for
done equally
all
care
if
not
around, the screw will not be true to the
head.
To You may have
Enamel
Drill
Dials.
in enamel dials. ended drill or concial broach of copper, into which diamond powder has been hammered. A graver kept moistened with turpentine is sometimes used. The edges of the holes in dials may be trimmed with corundum sticks, to be obtained at material
For
this
to drill or
purpose use a
broach holes
flat
shops.
Carbolic Acid on Metal Cutting Tools. Carbolic acid
is
recommended
with which metals are worked. grindstone acid.
is
for moistening the tools
The
efficiency of the
even said to be increased by the use of the
The dark and impure
acid can be used for this
purpose.
To The
easiest
way
wood.
is
to
fit
A
about the holes causes the the pearls firmly.
and them loosely in holes bored few drops of water sprinkled
to hold pearls, in order to drill
otherwise cut them, in a piece of
Drill Pearls.
When
wood fibers to swell and hold wood dries they fall out.
the
8
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
II
MISCELLANEOUS. Pivot Holes.
A
pivot hole
the pivot
fits;
is
always broached from the inside
the necessary shake. nicely
until
then use a chamferer upon the plate to give If
polished anvil,
necessary to chamfer.
was
the underlay in riveting
and the shake
Then make
the
suffices, oil
it
is
a
not
sink from the
outside.
Square Holes.
To
file
a square hole,
work very
often
;
it
a square
is file
necessary to reverse the should
first
be used, and
the holes finished with either a diamond-shaped half-round.
This leaves the corners
square,
file
or a
as they
properly should be.
To It is
Broach a Hole Vertically.
quite a serious thing for
young watchmakers
to
broach a hole vertically; a hole in a plate, for instance, that in a barrel, is seldom maintained at right angles to
when they have occasion to employ a broach. They may be certain of success, however, by adopting the following method: Take a cork of a diameter rather
the surface,
less
than that of the barrel or other object operated upon,
and make a hole in the length of the cork through which When the cock has turned the broach can be passed. quite true on its end and edge, the broach is passed through, and used to enlarge the hole; by pressing against the back of the cock, it is kept against the barrel, whereby the broach is maintained in a vertical position.
.
II9
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
To
Fit a Bush.
After repairing the pivot, a bush
is
selected as small
Open the hole of the plate as the pivot will admit. or cock so that the bush, which previously should be lightly draw-filed at the end, will stand with a slight pressure upright in the opened hole of the plate or cock; then, with a knife, cut
be broken
off so that
required to do
it
it
across at the part
where
may break very
readily
Press
so.
it
in the plate
it is
to
when
on the side the
and then drive it home with a small center punch. In every repair of this nature, notice should be taken of the amount of end shake of the pinion, and allowance made by leaving the bush so that any pivot works, break
excess
may
off,
To
be corrected.
finish off the
a small chamfering tool should be used.
shoulder end, It
has a hole
smaller than the pivot one to receive a fine brass wire,
serving as a center to prevent the tool from changing
being used;
position while
or
the
wire
may be
its
put
through the bush holes, and the hole of the tool left The- above is a far more expeditious way than open. using the lathe.
The Functions
of Oil Sinks.
watch and clock plates so that oil is kept close to the pivot instead of spreading over the plate, and back slopes are formed on the arbors so that the oil may not be drawn all up the body of the arbor. The "attraction " is sometimes negative and becomes a repulsion, as is the case with mercury in a glass tube. It is still called capillarity, whether the fluid is raised above its natural level or depressed below it With regard to oil sinks, the views of watchmakers Oil sinks are
by
formed
capillary attractions
differ.
One
is
in
in
the
favor of large, the other of small sinks.
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS'
120
Needlessly large,
flat
sinks,
oil
well as projecting*
as
bushes, both labor under disadvantages; the former of permitting to escape, and the latter of attracting the oil from the spots where it is wanted. With large sinks the oil spreads very easily and becomes contaminated with dust and fibers, while projecting bushes prevent the oil from again returning to the pivots.
To Remove Broken Any
one having an American
Screws.
can, with small expense of time and labor, make a small attachment which will easily and quickly remove a broken screw from the plate or pillar of
any watch.
Take two common
watch keys having hardened having care that each are of the same size and a good the pipes about half an inch from the end r
and tempered pipes the squares in depth.
Cut
up one
off
lathe,
—
steel
size,
four or five
—
'
of these for about half
its length, on three one of the large split chucks of the lathe. Drill a hole in one of the brass centers of the lathe of sufficient size and depth, into which insert the other keyfile
equal sides, to
pipe,
fit
and fasten with a
work
little
Soften a piece
soft solder.
and turn down an eighth of an inch from the end to a size a little smaller than the broken screw in the plate; finish with a
of Stub's wire, to
easily in the lathe,
for
conical shoulder, for greater strength, and cross-file the
end with a fine slot or knife-edge file, that the tool may slip on the end of the broken screw; cut off the wire a half inch from the end, and file down to a square that will fit closely into one of the key-pipes. Make a second point like the first one and fit to the other key-pipe r harden in oil, polish, and temper to a dark straw color. not
Fit the brass center into the tools
in place
in
tail
stock.
To
use, put the
the lathe, place the broken end of the
screw against the end of the point
in the lathe
head
;
slide
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
up the back center and
121
fasten the point firmly against the
it may not slip or turn; revolve the plate slowly, and the broken screw, being held fast between the two points, will be quickly removed.
other end of the screw, that
To remove
a broken pillar screw: Place the broken screw against the point in the lathe-head, holding the plate firmly with the right hand, the pillar on a line with
the lathe center; turn the lathe-head slowly with the left hand, and the screw will be
backward
removed. on the broken screw, and fail to draw it out, drill a hole in the pillar from the lower or dial side, down to the screw point, (if the size of the pillar in the plate will admit of so doing), and with the second point in the back center, remove the screw in the same manner Should the tool
as the plate
slip
screw
of these points will
in the first process.
be found
these breakages that
may
Five or six sizes
sufficient for a majority
of
occur.
Cutting Screw Threads. It is
quite a
knack
to
make a nice screw, and beginners much force when cutting the
are generally apt to use too thread.
If
the spindle has been turned too large for the
hole in the screw-plate there
is danger of breaking the over hard, and pieces will chip off; again, the piece to be tapped is apt to break and stop up
screw-plate, which
is
the hole in the plate, thereby entailing the tedious job of drilling the piece out and cleaning the thread. It is better to begin with a hole much too large and working down gradually.
It
is
natural that a certain
must be employed, and a beginner
how much
little
amount
of force
practice will soon teach the
to insure a full
good thread.
Now,
put the screw back in the lathe, and turn the head a little more than the required thickness, and cut the screw off
by turning
a groove out.
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
122
Fitting the Hands. -
If
the
body
of the
canon pinion
bear turning
will not
in fitting it to the hour wheel, the hour wheel should be opened in the mandrel, as it can not be kept true byopening the hole in the fingers. Fitting the hands to a watch deserves more care and attention than are generally given to it. The wav hands are commonly fitted to watches is bad in principle. The pipe of the hour wheel is left too long, and that of the minute hand too short, and when the end shake of the hour hand is adjusted, as it usually is, lay the boss on the hour wheel and the dial, the end shake of the center wheel affects it, sometimes giving it too much and bending the hour hand by its catching the minute hand either in setting the hands or
in the
going of the
watch.
In fitting
the
hands, the
examiner should fit the glass, if to a hunting case, as high as the case will admit, ascertain the space available by placing a piece of beeswax on the dial and pressing
down on
and turn the canon pinion until it projects from the dial the height of the beeswax; the hour wheel pipe should rise just perceptibly above the dial, and the end shake of the hour hand be adjusted by the pipe of the minute hand and that of the hour wheel. the glass
it,
Concerning the Rate of a Watch.
When the
watch is wound up, and has a lame motion and at last comes to a stop, either the male stop has wedged itself under the female stop in the last winding, or, if it should be a little smaller, then the former applied to a shoulder of the latter, or, the spring is too broad by one number, and, when the barrel cover little,
is
a friction will occur, or finally, the hole
in the center of the spring. in this case
The
first coil
pressed in a is
not located
of the spring
comes to a stand above the spring
core, in con-
sequence of which the inner end of the spring rubs on
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK.
1
23
the cover or bottom of the barrel, whereby the spring
is
pinched
in,
happened filed
and thus contracts
to
me
its
several times.
I
took
out the spring,
the two inner sides of the spring a
rounded file filed
which has
elasticity,
little
smaller,
edges with the graver, and with a round It also happens somethe hole in the center. their
times that the spring hook
is
not located exactly in the
center of the spring core; there are also springs of an inferior
qualitv,
that lose their elasticity after
weeks or months, whereby the watch makes motion and
stops after
from 10
to 12 hours.
occur that the balance spring works also
produces a slow motion and
will
occur
wound into
only, however,
too quickly,
when
loose,,
It
several
lame
a
may
which defect
stoppage;
finally
the watch
whereby the balance
also
is
has
this
been
transported
unduly large vibrations.
To
Detect a Magnetized Watch.
Every watchmaker should have a fair-sized pocket compass placed on or gummed to the under side of the showcase glass, and to try every watch that comes in, in the presence of the customer. Place the watch a little to the east or west of the compass, and revolve it slowly; if the watch is magnetized, the compass will move to the right and left as the watch is revolved if it is not, the compass will remain stationary, while the watch is kept due east or west of the same. ;
Repairing Cylinder Watches. It
frequently happens that the cylinder edges are
worn
and it does not pay to put in a new cylinder; the watch may, nevertheless, be put into keeping a good rate by altering the escapement. Look at the cylinder and see if there is room either above or below the old wears to shift the action of the wheel. If the wheel holes are
off,
WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
124
make one
of brass,
a
little
—
deeper, and put a shallower
may perhaps be sufficient. This must be done according as you want your wheel up or down. If the holes are stone, shift your wheel on the one on the other side
pinion
by a new
or turning
collet,
may
one, as the case
this
require.
If
away more
you
raise
of the old
your wheel,
see that that it works free of plate and top of cylinder, and that the web of wheel clears the top of passage. This last fault may be altered by polishing the passage a little wider, if the rub is slight. If shifted downward, see to freedom at the bottom of cylinder, etc.
Reducing Diameter of a Watch Glass.
The diameter
watch glass can be reduce by cenit between two pieces of cork, cork arbors, and applying a moistened piece of a
tering in a lathe, chucking
or a pair of of
edge, or an emery stick.
glass to the
When
the
is attained, polish the edge with pumice by putty powder applied on a wet cork.
desired diameter stone> followed
To Remove Name Take
a
little
from Dial.
diamond powder made
into a paste with
on the end of a copper polisher, the surface of which has been freshly riled and slightly rounded. On rubbing the marks, they will be seen to rapidly disappear. The surface is left a little dull; it may be rendered bright by rubbing with the same powder mixed with a greater quantity of oil, and applied with a stick of pegwood. fine oil,
Operators
will
do well
to
previously experiment with
several degrees of fineness of the
powder on
old dials.
INDEX. PA«E Acid Coloring Small Articles Alabaster Arloys for
PAGE Bronze, Violet
31
Manganese
101
Nickel
100 101
19
Bronze, Chinese Burnishers
30 56
rij
96
Burnishing Powder Bush, to Fit Butting Canon Pinion, to Tighten Carbolic Acid on Metal Cutting Tools
Silver Alloys
96
Celluloid
Copper Alloys Tin Alloys
96
Cements
Zinc Alloys
97
Aluminium Alloys to Polish
to Solder
Aluminium Solders Aluminium and Gold Alloys. and and and and
30
Brown
9S
for Bells
29
ofMedals and Staining Metals
8S
Compensation Balance.
120
Bronzing Fluid, Aniline
5
Amber Cement
..
94
'...
47 62 97
3
Aniline Bronzing Fluid
29
Armenian
Annealing
74
4 3
3
Small Steel Pieces Springs
74 75
Bisque Figure Bone and Horn Coral
Steel...
7S
Cutlery
Staff or Pinion Antique Bronze, Imitation of Green
76
Emery Wheel
29
115
Engravers' Fire-Proof Glass and Metal Glass and Porcelain.. Gold and Silver Colored.
101
Guttapercha
Silver, Imitation of
Arbor, Barrel
_
Barrel Arbor Bell Metals
Bending Tempered
Steel
Black Bronzi Bleaching Ivory Bluing Pan of acid
25 115
So
r
6 10
7 8 10 11
11
8 9 12
8
Ivory
102
..
9
Jet....
_
10
4S
Jewelers'
77 28
Label Leather
Screws
2S
Meerschaum
10
Horn Cements
10
12
69
Metal Metal and Glass
34
Opticians'
11
Steel
Bone
31
117
7
Amber
3
108
10
Acid Bottle Acid Proof.
97
119
10S
Brass, Etching on
3 _
7 6
8
Gold Lacquer for Gold Yellow for Lacquer for
27
Porcelain and Glass
34
Rubber
11
Polishes
41
Silver Colored
12
42
Strong
12
Clean ... Broaching of Holes Bronze, Black Black for Brass Brown, Chinese Green for Brass Imitation of Antique to
118
Tortoise Shell
102
Chinese Brown Bronze Cleaning Brass Brushes Clocks....
20
30 19
Electro Plate
29
125
9
12
30 42 57
47 38
PAGE Cleaning- Files..
Go'd Tarnished
PAGE Enamels Y ellow
45
_
in Sold-
to
Enamel
3S
ering:
]
Remove from Work
Solders.
61
Ivory Ornaments
40
Dial
Mat Gold
3S
Dials, to Drill
Nickel Plates
Powder dows Rags
for
45
Silverware Silver Filigree
Work
ering..
Watch Chains
70
70
56
Fluids for Silver
40
Grounds
40
Signs Spoons, Etc
69
for
69
Stamplnk..
Wax
57
71
for Steel
71
39
Clocks, to Clean
47
Files, to Clean
Coloring Copper Gold Alloys
27
Filigree
90
Fireproof Cement French Polishing Powder Friction Polish on Steel Frosting Polished Silver
to Color
_.
and Aluminium Alloys Coral Cement
Dials,
for
_•
Drills
Dissolving Soft Solder Drills,
Diamond for Hard Steel Rose for Enamel Dials
_
11
49 43 22
Silver
21 21
21
Fusing Gold Dust
S3
German
63
Silver, to Solder
88
Gold Alloys Blue
90
Gray Green Mat. to Clean
35
92
116
91 38
-
Red
58
and Gravers
40
Watch Caps Watch Plates.
124
Diamantine
Diamond
Clean
27
37 ,
45 to
96
117
Remove Name from
to
57
69
26
Drill
Gold, Restoring Color of
Lacquer
101
123
Silver Articles
Enamel, to
99
1
8
Cylinder, Watch, Repairing of...
Dead White on
Work,
'7
Cutlery Cement.
70 66
.
Fictitious Silver
Compensation Balances, Alloy for Composition Files Copper, Etching on
91
-
Solders
60
-
116
Tirge to Silver Yellow
116
to Melt....
83
116
to Refine
S3
64
25
92
Electro Plate, to Clean
3S
Emery Wheel Cement
10
to Separate from Silver. Gold and Aluminium Alloys Hands, to Fit
71
Hard
13
Hardening and Tempering
Engravers Border Enamels Blue 1
Wax
69
Fluids for Brass Fluids for Ivory
40
Chamois Leather
.
56
Silver Tarnished in Sold-
Soiled
9 117
Etching Copper
Show Win-
6
iS
117
Solders
S2
96 122
65
-
72
15
Steel in Petroleum....
73
Black
17
Liquids
73
Brown Dark Red
14
and Tempering Com-
Fluxes Green Light Red
13
Holes, Pivot
14
Olive
15
Opaque White Orange.
14
Square Broach Horn and Bone Cements Imitation Antique Silver Gold Alloys
Phosphorescent Purple Rose Colored
17
Violet..
14
Watch White
Dial
bined
14
14
73 118
to
15
15
Whiten... Ivory, Bleaching Etching on Ornaments,
93
16
126
99 35 --
to
14
118 10
Lacquer for.
Iron,
118
25
Silver Alloys
15
-
----
32 4§
7° to
Clean
4S
PAGE
PAGE Polishing Paste for Brass
66
Jewelers' Soldering Fluid.
no
m
Powder Powder
New
no
Rollers and Collets
Removing-
112
Watch Wheels....
Jewels
-
Foot, to Replace
m
Test for Quality Settings to Polish Lacquers and Varnishes to
Black for Iron or Steel... Brass
34
Dial..
35
Fine Pale. Gold Gold for Brass Gold for Iron. Green_
36
34
3S 35
S3
Steel
36
Sweepings Relation of Mainspring
Transparent for Brass Mainspring, Relation of
41
Manganese Alloys
90
Mat Brushing
55
Stains
Rose Cutter
25 26
Brass ._ Jewel Settings
Pinions
45
Steel
44 54 2S
Screws, to Blue Evenly Broken, to Remove Screw Threads, to Cut Separating Gold from Silver
117
50
Aluminium
11
112
Scratch Brushing
26
50
Silver.
50
Silver from
57
Silver from Solution
10S
Silver
45 26
Silver
114
Silver, '
120 121
82 85
Copper
S6 86
Assay with Testing Tube.. by Smelting and Aluminium Alloys Etching on Plating,
118
Plating Fluid Plating Simple Method
99
99 96 7°
Without Battery..
113
94.
46 49
.
Ruby Pin Rust, to Remove from
119
37
116
Rouge Rubber Cement
45
51
Holes.. Platinum Alloys Polishing Agents
120
45
66
Shape of
48 S4
46
100
Non-Corrosive Soldering Fluid Oil Sinks, Functions of.. Oxidizing Silverware Oxidizing Silver, Brown Black. ._ Blue Black.....
Pivots, Friction of
Watch
Restoring Color of Gold Dials Nickel Movements
So
oS 45 3S
Tin from Gold Broken Screws.
30
17
Gold Alloys Pinion Diameter Removing Rust from Pink Tint on Silver
from
104 1
Dials
123
Niello.
for
S2 to Barrel.
Spots on Gilding
104
82
S6
Remedy for Worn Pinions Removing Rust from Nickel
34
Silver
S4
Refining Gold Silver
German
122
35
35
for
49
49
36 33
...
6t
S2
Silverware Simple Pale
Pickling of Metals Solutions Pickle for Brass
gj
84
Metal Red..
Pearls, to Drill
42 5S
-
Recovering Gold from Textiles... Recovery and Refining of Waste.
36
Measuring Length of Staff. Medals, to Bronze Melting Gold Nickel Alloys Movement, to Restore. Plates, to Clean Remove Rust from
44
tals
35
Gypsum.
to Barrel
40
Bath Recovering Gold from Mixed Me-
34
Magic Polish
37
for Silver
Soldering _ Preserving the Color of Silver while Soldering Pulz Powder Putty Powder Rating a Watch Recovering Gold from Coloring
33
35
41
Gold
Prepared Chalk .. Preserving the Color of Gold while
43
Amber
Lacquer,
for
22
23 23
86
37
Refining
47
Soaps
39
41
Solders
62-
4^
to
127
Frost
-
21
PAGE Silver to Oxidize
Watch
PAGE Steel, to Polish
25
Dials, to Whiten...
Silverware, Cleaning
Lacquer
for
Oxidizing Silvering- Copper and Brass Metal, Cold Receipt Small Iron Articles
26
to
43
Remove Rust from
44
40
Stone Set Rings
33 25 22
Specific Gravities
Spring, Balance
Balance, Isochronism of..
105
24
Breguet
103
24
Gold, to Harden
105
to
Solder
63
88 103
Demagnetize to Prevent Rusting Tempering
24
to
104
Tincture Soft Soldering
30
Soft Solder, to Dissolve..
64
Drills
So
Aluminium Aluminium
97 62
Magntts
79
Brass Fluxes
62
Small Steel Articles Tightening a Canon Pinion
79 10S
65
Tortoise Shell
Gold
60
Transparent Blue for Steel
27
65 62
Tripoli...
49
Silver
Varnishes and Lacquers
Soft
64
Vienna Lime Violet Bronze
3} 5S
Solder,
Hard
63
-.
Wire
65
Solders and Soldering-
59 62
Soldering Broken Broaches..
Enameledjewelry
German Silver
Cement
102
Dials,
to
59.
Dials, to
Stay Springs. Stone Set Kings Spots on Plated Articles, to Cover
62
Glassess,
Blue on Brass or Copper.. Dead Black on Brass Gold Yellow for Brass Green for Brass Orange for Brass Steel Gray for Brass Violet for Brass Stamp Ink Steel, Bluingof Hard, to Drill Transparent Blue for to Bronze
Remove
21
39
Stains
from
63
Green
12
to Frost Chains, to Clean
....
Stains, Antique
76
Watch Caps,
61
Forceps
104
Whiten Reducing Dia-
meter of..
63 31
Magnetized
31
Plates, to Frost
Repairing Cylinder To Rate Wheels, to Polish Wheels and Pinions Butting of. 'Scape, Teeth of
20 20 27
20 17
20
Bush
19
to
71
to
2S
to Insert
Grind
27
28
128
124 123
22 123
122
42
106 10S 106 106
Down
107
Teeth in
107
of Silver Watch Dials Wire Solder, to Make Yellow Solder for Brass
Whitening
116
48 26
26 65 62
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