Proposal

North Rim Public Use and Access To: From: Date: Subject:

Board of Trustees, Valles Caldera Trust Dorothy Hoard, Rim Trail Reconnaissance Team August 2008 Public Use of the Rim of the Valles Caldera Proposal to open access to two viewpoints owned by the Valles Caldera National Preserve on the north rim of the caldera.

Introduction Since 2001, several people have proposed a set of trails around the rim of the Valles Caldera. In 2007-2008, under a permit from Ranch Manager Dennis Trujillo, a team completed reconnaissance of sections of the rim owned by the Valles Caldera National Preserve (VCNP). The primary objectives of the reconnaissance were to assess the feasibility of trails around the rim and to locate viewpoints into the caldera. In their 2008 report to the Board of Trustees of the Valles Caldera Trust, the team noted that, while the Forest Service has access roads and trails around the their mutually-owned boundary, the most important viewpoints into the caldera lie on the VCNP. All of these viewpoints are currently closed to public access. We have found that the concept of trails around the caldera rim is widely acknowledged to be a potentially valuable recreational asset in the Jemez Mountains. However, few people actually are aware of conditions and ambiance of the area. Proponents actually are unaware how such trails would be accepted and used by recreational visitors. This proposal is conceived as an experiment to help determine the acceptance of access and to assess the impacts it may cause. PROPOSED ACTION We propose two openings in the VCNP boundary fence to limited public access. These two points are located on the north rim of the caldera near the joint boundary with the Santa Fe National Forest (SFNF). The on-the-ground action required for these openings is installation of one additional fence post for each opening and restringing barbed wire. We feel that regulatory requirements would fall under experimental processes used by VCNP managers.

Cerro de la Garita viewpoint

Garita Gate Hunter’s Point viewpoint

Location of proposed viewpoints along the caldera rim, as seen from Valle Toledo.

1

Purpose and Need When the Baca Location No. 1 became available for sale, many groups and individuals advocated purchase by the federal government. As a result of this advocacy, Congress authorized one-hundred-and-one million dollars ($101,000,000) of public monies to purchase the property. Upon purchase, federal agents immediately closed the property to all public access. In the intervening eight years, hiking on the Preserve was tightly controlled and most of the caldera remains closed to unsupervised access. Former advocates became and remain increasingly angry and frustrated. Some ardent hikers have become, quite frankly, disgusted and dismissive of the VCNP altogether. With its restrictive policies, the Preserve is losing or has lost support of natural allies needed by any federal entity in its political and financial dealings with Congress. Prior to federal purchase, the Baca Location was a place of mystery to the general public. Even today, most people, even outdoor enthusiasts, believe that the Valle Grande is the extent of the Preserve. They can’t envision the caldera as a bowl-shaped structure. They are unaware of additional valles, such as San Antonio and Toledo. The concept of resurgent and ring-fracture domes is completely incomprehensible to a person pausing along State Road 4 to view elk. Proponents of trails around the rim feel that the proposed action—opening two viewpoints on the VCNP to limited, hiking-only access—can help in some small way to alleviate the frustration. These two viewpoints, one a short, easy walk, the other a longer hike with additional options for exploration, offer truly spectacular views into the caldera. The bowl shape is readily apparent, the ring fracture domes are prominent features, the large grassland valles are all visible. The caldera has numerous aspen groves scattered amidst dark evergreen forests. In autumn when the aspens turn golden, vistas from these viewpoints can only be described as magical and breathtaking. Proponents of this proposal feel that it has been a grave disservice to deny opportunities to the American people to at least view some of the resources they purchased. EXISTING CONDITIONS Access: Forest Road 144 provides access to the north rim of the Valles Caldera. FR144 is a graveland-dirt road leading from US 285 in Española. It is approximately an hour’s drive from US 285 to the boundary gate at VC12, hereafter called Garita Gate. FR144 also connects to State Road 126 near Fenton Hill, but parts of that road are in very poor condition at all times. Forest Roads 100 and 99 out of Youngsville on State Road 96 are gravel roads more intensively maintained by the Forest Service than FR144. It is 23 miles from Youngsville to Garita Gate. FR 99 intersects FR144 3.5 miles west of the gate. This route is an approximately 45-minute drive from Youngsville. All roads are closed in winter in accordance with road conditions. Roads may not be opened in spring until late April or May depending on snow levels. Forest Road 144 near Garita Gate. Environment: The north rim is primarily above 10,000 feet in elevation; the forest is largely spruce. The entire area was heavily logged in the 1960s. Logging roads form a dense network across the forest, including those areas within the present boundaries of the VCNP. According to Dennis Trujillo, former district ranger on the Coyote District of the SFNF, the forest was indeed clear-cut, a standard logging technique for spruce. Logging roads were cut 150 feet apart to service the operations. Present forested areas are second growth. While 2

the 150-foot strips between roads are now densely forested, trees have not regrown in the roadways. However, despite logging operations almost 40 years ago, the north rim appears heavily wooded; not until one actually gets into the forest do the roaded conditions become evident. This is Forest Service multiple-use land, now used primarily for grazing and hunting. Gravel is mined here, probably for local use. There is no evidence of logging at this time. Recreation is not The caldera rim (on horizon) appears heavily wooded, but is a focus. Roads are poorly marked; there are no actually laced with abandoned logging roads. formal facilities. Campgrounds consist of primitive fire rings in small clearings amid the spruce trees. They are rarely occupied except during hunting season, when they are full. Cattle roam freely within fenced allotments. The area does attract some dispersed recreation. A motorcycle trail follows part of the VCNP/ SFNF fence, leading onto mesas radiating to the north. Hiking groups from Los Alamos and Santa Fe, even Albuquerque, routinely schedule day hikes in the area. It is a long drive, so visitor’s time on the north rim is rather restricted. The roads are not suitable for all vehicles; they require, at a minimum, a high-clearance vehicle. On the VCNP, the road to Garita Gate—VC12—ascends from the Valle San Antonio. Scheduled fee hikes are sometimes offered on this road as a as part of the VCNP recreation program. Participants are driven by van to the base of the road in the Valle San Antonio and are given a fixed amount of time to return to the van. No provision is made for people who cannot hike 3.7 miles up a 1,000-foot elevation gain and back within 4-5 hours. It is neither likely nor desirable that this area become a Destination Experience. Proponents of this proposal have no desire to change the ambiance of the north rim. They have enjoyed feelings of solitude and discovery they experienced in the area. This proposal is aimed at relieving some of the animosity of hikers toward the VCNP. We feel that many hikers, probably in hiking groups or as family outings, will take advantage of the opportunity to view the caldera. My personal feeling, based on many years associated with the Wilderness movement, is that many people who would never take advantage of the opportunity would take comfort in simply knowing that the opportunity exists. Location: Both viewpoints are near the VCNP Garita Gate off Forest Road 144 between Cerro de la Garita and Hunter’s Point. The viewpoints are chosen to accommodate two types of visitors: those who prefer only a short easy walk and those who demand a longer hike. Neither route is difficult; however, neither could be handicapped-accessible. Parking space for several vehicles is readily available on the SFNF near Garita Gate at the grazing allotment fence just off FR144.

Parking near Garita Gate. Note Forest Service allotment fence on left; it has a barbed wire unlocked gate on a road leading to Cerro de la Garita

3

PROJECT DESCRIPTIONS Hunter’s Point. The first viewpoint is a short hike of 0.6 mile to the top of Hunter’s Point. This access is intended for people who enjoy auto rides through the forest and can make a short, gently uphill hike but may be physically constrained by distance or high altitude. From the Forest parking area, the boundary fence leads east along the north slope of Hunter’s Point. The fence is within a wide right-of-way with a motorcycle trail on the forest side and game trails on the VCNP side. The forest appears heavily wooded and there is no indication that any viewpoints exist nearby. Within 0.3 mile, a wide logging road crosses the boundary fence at a wired gate and leads up-hill through the forest. This road is on the VCNP and the proposed opening in the fence is at this junction. Additional logging roads branch off this road, but the main road continues uphill.

Wired gate in VCNP/Forest Service boundary fence, looking south uphill toward viewpoint.

Wired gate, looking north downhill to an old logging road, recently driven upon.

Road to viewpoint. This road is 15 feet wide.

Intersection in road to viewpoint. Abandoned roads branch east and west. The main road continues south, uphill (center).

4

The road crosses the forest/grassland interface just before the crown of the hill, where the bowl of the caldera comes into view.

At the forest/grassland interface at the crown of the hill, the view suddenly becomes spectacular: in view is the entire east rim of the caldera, from Turkey Ridge past Pajarito Mountain and Cerro Grande down to the south rim at Rabbit Ridge and over to Los Griegos. The valles of San Antonio, Toledo, Posos, Grande and even the lesser grasslands of valles Santa Rosa, Jaramillo, and Seco all lie below. The ring-fracture domes—cerros del Medio, Abrigo, Trasquilar, San Luis, and Seco line up in their circle around Redondo Peak. Even without caring about the names, viewers easily can see the caldera’s bowl-shaped structure with its internal features. Should the Trust Board worry about trespass onto revenue-generating areas of the preserve, there is little incentive for people to stray much beyond the viewpoint. The wall of the caldera is steep as it swoops down toward the Valle San Antonio and bunch grass hummocks in the grassland make hiking awkward. Cerro de la Garita. The second trip is 2.2 miles from Garita Gate to the viewpoint at the grassy southernmost point of Cerro de la Garita. The entire hike is on logging roads. This trip is intended for people who feel the outing requires a longer hike to make the long drive to the north rim worthwhile. 1.75 miles of the hike is in the SFNF. Along the way are several viewpoints with somewhat limited views into the caldera. These provide a nice lead-up to more sweeping views at the Garita overlook.

A pleasant, but limited viewpoint on the SFNF along the way.

Forest views become more grand approaching Cerro de la Garita.

The five-strand barbed-wire VCNP/SFNF boundary fence blocks the logging road leading to the high point on the rim at Cerro de la Garita. This is the location of the proposed opening to accommodate hikers. On the VCNP, a straight 15-foot wide road, 0.43 mile long with a gentle grade, leads up to the viewpoint. The cerro juts out into the bowl of the caldera; by walking along the edge a bit, one can view the entire caldera save that part hidden behind Redondo Peak. The ring-fracture domes are visible, as are the major valles. One can view the rim from Turkey Ridge on the northeast rim around to Rabbit Ridge on the south rim. To the west, the cliffs of San Antonio Canyon on the west rim are in view. 5

The boundary fence blocking the road to the Garita viewpoints. The fence plunges onto the steep wall of the caldera near this point.

The road to the high point on Cerro de la Garita. The road ends abruptly at the edge of the caldera wall.

A view eastward from Cerro de la Garita: East rim of the Valles Caldera from Cerro Toledo to Pajarito Mountain. Chicoma Peak at far left edge. The triangular rockfall is on Turkey Ridge, which is on the rim. Valle Toledo, right.

A view southward from Cerro de la La Garita: ring-fracture domes Cerro San Luis and Cerro Seco line Valle San Antonio in foreground; San Antonio Mountain behind can. Valle Grande and Rabbit Ridge on the south rim, upper left. Los Griegos on the south rim just peeks above the left shoulder of Redondo Peak. Sandia Mountain in the far distance left of Los Griegos.

The north rim supports extensive aspen groves. In autumn when aspen leaves turn to gold, these excursions, although not long by hikers’ standards, rival those of any outing anywhere. The wall of the caldera here is steep, rocky, and covered with aspen and dense forest with excessive deadfall. It does not tempt one to trespass into the caldera. 6

Cerro de la Garita is one of few viewpoints we found for the western rim of the caldera. The west rim here is a line of cliffs above the western terminus of the Valle San Antonio where it exits the Preserve into San Antonio Canyon (center of photo).

Scope of Work The only physical modifications to existing conditions are openings in the five-strand barbed wire fence suitable for a person to pass through, but too small for cattle or motorized vehicles. Should sensitive areas be identified, traffic can be guided away from them by judicious placement of confrontational vegetation. Supplies and physical labor can be supplied entirely by volunteers. In the past, the VCNP performed archaeological surveys and surveys for threatened and endangered species before opening a road for hiking. Although the logging roads proposed for View from the Forest. Rabbit Ridge, center, on the south rim. access to these viewpoints endured considerable modification in the past, the VCNP may not choose to declare them eligible for categorical exclusion. We understand that VCNP staff is fully committed for the foreseeable future. However, we can find qualified volunteers to do cultural and zoological/vegetative NEPA surveys. We can also find volunteers to do monitoring for a few years for vandalism and trash if desired by the Board. At a maximum, this proposal would only require review and some oversight by VCNP staff, employees, or contractors. Submitted by Dorothy Hoard 11 Los Arboles Los Alamos NM 87544 505 662-2662 [email protected] 7

Garita Gate

Hunter’s Point viewpoint

Garita viewpoint VC 12

Map showing location of proposed access routes (yellow). Red=rim, purple=Forest Road 144; green=our reconnaissance routes. The modified boundary of the 1966 land sale by the Baca to the Forest Service is hand-drawn upon this map (black).

Garita Gate

Garita viewpoint

Google aerial photograph showing the extent of logging roads on the north rim of the Valles Caldera White line is hand-drawn approximation of 1966 boundary adjustment. Green line is the Fifth Standard Parallel North.

8