Ashraf Sayed East Africa Trip 06 July – 5 October 2005 Intro. So a few years ago I did a little solo trip up to East Africa. 06 July 2005 is exactly 10 years to the day at the time of writing this when I left. In total I spent 90 days on the road in the Landy. Fortunately I kept a journal for each day and when going through it after many years, I felt I had to share some of it. That nostalgic feeling of driving through Africa in a Land Rover was a childhood dream, visiting Africa's big game parks, climbing Kilimanjaro, gorilla trekking, white water rafting.... This might belong on a blog or something but what the hack! If it’s a yawn zoot right passed me! Extracts from my journal……. Day 1 06 July 2005 - Joburg to Nata Lodge Botswana "After stressing for days (which seemed too many) I finally left Joburg at 05H20. The pre-trip planning was chaotic, tiring, frustrating yet gratifying when the action list saw "To do" items slowly coming off. At some point it seemed like I would never get away. But I did. The road to Nata was long (950km) and hard but the Landy did ok. Got to Nata at about 17H10 giving me enough time to set up camp and have a braai for supper. I was bushed but the hard work was not over. My storage system at the back of the Landy is a disaster. Slept at 23H00, busy farting around with stuff."

Day 2 07 July 2005 - Nata lodge, Botswana to Waterfront, Zambia. "Kazangula border post was ±340km from Nata lodge. The road was long and arduous, narrow in places and pothole infested. This was my first time in Zambia and I was excited at the prospect, especially at crossing the Zambezi in a ferry. The Botswana exit was fairly ok, with a very odd character handing me forms and rigidly answering questions. The ferry took about 10 minutes to get back to the Botswana shores & not long I was on the ferry crossing over to Zambia. I remember feeling nauseous & thinking gee, motion sickness already!!. The road to Livingstone was colourful, the trees showing green & brown & red & orange. Vast areas of bush made for a scenic drive. ...Then it was a quick diesel fill-up at ZK4912/L (very expensive) & off to Vic Falls. After seeing thousands of images of this natural wonder, nothing could prepare me for the sheer grandeur of this spectacle. Beautiful cascading water down a deep gorge forever leaving a layer of 'smoke that thunders'."

Day 3 - 08 July 2005, Waterfront Camp, Zambia. "Awoke at 7am & made it for the rafting check in point at 8am. Two rafts were going out but were not full. We were 5 + 1 guide (usually 8 +1). After a quick breakfast & briefing the butterflies started. Had to walk down the Batoka Gorge to where the rafts were waiting. Steep descent, rocky, slippery....hectic! With no rafting experience I was about to 'Highside' the Mighty Zambezi! Amazing. I've waited my whole life for this. The moment had arrived.

As we made our way down the river, we went through various rapids but our second and last flip (of the greatest) flips came on rapid #15. This was the classical Zambezi flip, with the raft gently rising up to the crest of the wave & once in almost a vertical position, it flips back over spilling all its contents. Utterly awesome! By bow the dread turned into sheer excitement as all we had to do was grab the rope. To hell with the paddles! A really great day. My body is sore. The Mighty Zambezi...Africa's wildest. Been there, done that!"

Day 4 - 09 July 2005 Livingstone to Lusaka (Pioneer campsite) "Today was another long hard day on the road. In all, I drove 500km. Whilst I enjoy just cruising at between 80-100km/hr and watching each town go by, I was tired. My mission to try & get to Flatdogs tomorrow night, right at the entrance of South Luangwa National Park. Two problems, looking at driving ±700km and I don’t have enough money for diesel...not enough Kwachas. I tried getting to a bureau to change but they were closed & they ignored me. Some guy at the Manda Hill shopping centre tried exchanging $1 @ ZK4700. I decided not to. So I headed to Pioneer campsite and the braai is on! The highlight of today was getting to the town of Kafue & crossing the Kafue River. After hearing so much about Lusaka, it proved a bit less exciting. An old city, old buildings, nothing modern about it. I fought off the fatigue behind the wheel all day. Tomorrow will be tougher. Not sure how I will solve my money & diesel problems out, but I decided to push on to Chipata"

Day 5 - 10 July 2005 Lusaka to Chipata, Mamma Rouls campsite. "The road to Chipata was full of action. Whilst I passed many towns and miles and miles of bush, a few things caught my eye. Almost every (if not every) little town had a school & a church. While I’m not sure if schools were open, many kids live in what seems like poverty conditions.. yet the emphasis on religion and education is still there.. It was Sunday & everyone was out on the streets. My presence seemed to evoke a lot of interest, puzzled stares & the occasional wave. ..I crossed the Kafue River Bridge and stopped to take a photo & just as I took it a policemen armed with a rifle showed up from nowhere. Tourists are not allowed to photograph state buildings or bridges. Close one. He thought I was photographing hippos! The road from Nyimba to Chipata was very bad. The worst potholed piece of tar yet. It slowed me down tremendously. The Landy took major knocks & how critical this would prove later. I made it to Mamma Rouls at about 17H45. Nice pleasant campsite. I was all alone there. Checked in, had a brief chat with the barman, went to the Landy, set up camp, had some chicken fillet for supper, had a shower and it was an early night for me"

Day 6 - 11 July 2005 Lusaka to Chipata, Mamma Rouls campsite. I left as planned at 5H30 but tried to fill diesel. The filling station only opened at 6H00 so I decided to push on to South Luangwa. The total distance was 135km with mostly bad gravel making up the way. Somewhere past the halfway mark the Little Black Box starting chirping & the oil light flashed. My worst fears had been realized. A pipe that was attached to the oil filter had come loose and all I saw

was piles of oil all over the engine. Managed to tighten it & refill the engine with 5L Sasol Sapphire engine oil. Quite a nerve wrecking experience but I survived. Then it was off (slowly) to South Luangwa NP destination Flatdogs, campsite. As I sit here now I’m in the roof top tent relaxing. It’s a great campsite situated on the banks of the Luangwa River. Lots of hippos around and freaking overlanders! They are up in the trees, under the tress…all over! I guess that’s part of the experience. Tonight might be an interesting prospect of elephants and hippo coming into the camp. Let’s see what happens….”

Day 7 - 12 July 2005 South Luangwa National Park, Flat Dogs, Zambia. “My first night in the rooftop tent was full of adventure. The campsite is unfenced so wild animals roam in and out of the campsite. Early this evening, a herd of elephants entered the camp. I got to within 5m of them. Amazing experience. One elephant got hold of a T-shirt with a US flag on it & made it know what he thought of it! Elephants, hippo and maybe even Hyena walked about. I was too tired and all I heard was leaves & branches being ripped. I picked up 4 new bird species. It seemed like one huge Punda Maria – Pafuri area. One could drive anywhere and fortunately I had the GPS or else I would still be there spinning about in the myriad of loops. Roads were very bad in some sections requiring low range& would probably be unpassable in the wet season. Back in the camp site, I chose to camp in the overlander section…”in the hippo path”! Plenty of hippo activity and I spotted a Thorneycroft Giraffe walking nearby with the spotlight. I was awakened a few times by elephant and hippo activities but heard the most beautiful sound of the night…a Wood Owl! Tomorrow I’m off to Malawi…the Warm Heart of Africa….”

Day 8 - 13 July 2005 South Luangwa National Park, Zambia to Dedza, Malawi. “After the long dusty drive back from Luangwa to Chipata (without incident this time), I filled up diesel and made my way to Shoprite to stock up on some goodies & pump up the tyres. While there, I got chatting to a local about Zambia, SA & religion…I think he was just trying to solicit funds out of me! Then headed to Mchinji. The exit from Zambia went easy but the Malawi immigration had me confused. The Malawi customs and immigration is 12km away! So you drive thinking “shit I’m driving illegally here”. Kept thinking that I missed the border post, stopped asked a guy & he pointed forwarded. Malawians, much more friendly. At the border, things went smoothly & the dark dingy customs office reminded me of something old & oppressive. But all was good and soon I was legally in Malawi & heading for Lilongwe. Exchanged some cash and found a halal Nandos which was ok (cannot compare to Hans Strijdom). Then had to rush to get to Dedza at the rest house near Chongoyi Forest. A bit of a mission but I found it. Staying in a room that only cost MK700 = $5.3. Tomorrow I plan to climb a mountain behind the guesthouse. Should be fun!”

Day 9 - 14 July 2005 Dedza to Liwonde National Park, Malawi.

“The night at Dedza was ok. The shower didn’t have hot water. So I bathed in cold water. There were fleas and bedbugs in my bed. I had a mosquito that kept awake since 4AM. Had a quick bite to eat with some tea and I was ready for my walk up Chiwawa Hil with Pasu as my Guide. The uphill was steep but the views were worth every step of the way. Never knew that Malawi had such rugged and beautiful mountains. The birding was good & the forest, well, was not really a forest in the true sense, but a Brachystegia woodland with lots of evidence that the trees are being chopped by locals even though Pasu tells me that the trees are protected but not the animals. Needless to say, there was no wildlife to be seen other than the birdlife. The road to Liwonde turned out to be eventful. Whilst driving (as early as yesterday) I noticed that the Landy’s steering wheel alignment was out. So in the town of Ncheu, I made some enquiries and went from place to place eventually landing up at A.W McDonalds! A rudimentary system of aligning the wheels, some forceful adjusting & the steering wheel was straight. The guy Paul, was trying to solicit money by trying to get the oil checked and….and…Eventually we checked the transfer case oil & had it topped up. The whole episode cost MK4000. Then it was off to Liwonde National Park, some 60km away. Got there at about 16H00 & wanted to get Mvuvu Lodge but wanted to check out Chilungi Lodge first. By the time I did this it was too late to go to Mvuvu so I decided to stay for 2 days at Chilungi. I sat up camp where I later found out I was not supposed to, but to date, has been my most relaxing & peaceful camping spot.”

Day 10 - 15 July 2005 Day 2 Liwonde National Park, Malawi. “Today I decided to just take it easy. Did some repairs & fixing to the Landy & tried (again) to improve my storage system (again!). I thought that I’d achieve much, especially in the way of relaxing & taking it easy. Then, sometime during the late afternoon while sleeping in the back of the Landy, the most annoying sound made me close up the rooftop tent and go for a drive….a chainsaw!! Some dude was cutting flippen trees, it sounded like outside the Landy! Annoyed, I left for a quick sunset game drive, not long and I saw my next new bird, Collared Palmthrush. This made up for the chainsaw massacre & I arrived latish at the camp at about 18H00. A nice relaxing night followed. The rooftop tent is proving to be one of the better investments. However, sometime during the night I felt nauseous & made a desperate attempt to get out of the tent before hurling inside the tent (that would have been pretty!). But nothing happened. Can’t quite explain it but I hope it’s nothing serious.”

Day 11 - 16 July 2005 Liwonde National Park to Cape Maclear, Malawi. “Did an early morning drive before leaving Liwonde. Not long before I saw my next new bird, Bohms Beeater, pretty little thing. Also nearby was a sub-adult Fish Eagle. Magnificent site. As I left the Park and turned right into the town of Liwonde, I received my first fine, MW1000 for not wearing the seat belt. I was very annoyed with myself and as I maintain, there is no place on earth for spiedkops!! I hate them! Bastard, he could have just warned me. So I drove to the next checkpoint, paid the fine and carried on. Eventually my mood lightened up. I drove slowly and took Malawi in, watching the locals and even stopped and bought curios & bread from the locals at Mangochi. Then it was on the dirt road to Cape Maclear. The road has been very

bad in sections and I fear that they are taking their toll on the Landy. I am worried. As I arrived at Fat Monkeys, my next overnight stop, I noticed that a hub cap was missing & saw the side shafts protruding! Whilst I think it’s only the hub cover, only time will tell. I still plan to check the wheel assembly diagram to confirm if all is okay. So I am here at Fat Monkeys, Cape Maclear, Malawi. The place is viby, has an island feel to it & is full of guys trying to make a buck. I booked a dive, snorkelling and some fishing. But somehow I feel that I may have been ripped off as it seems as the though the whole thing was not done properly. All these guys appear to be doing is solicit money out of me by trying to sell me expensive hiking, fishing and other stuff. For now I’ve agreed to do a dive, snorkelling and fishing for $100. Whilst this may seem expensive, I am not sure how it will work out & can only compare it to diving costs back in SA. Come what may, tomorrow I am looking forward to it. I have now established some ground rules for myself so that I don’t get ripped off (or feel ripped off). This is Africa, I expect to learn some harsh lessons…it just feels so yukky!”

Day 12 - 17 July 2005 Kumbe Island, Lake Malawi. “What a day! I lost a lot sleep this last night. One thing on my mind..have I been ripped off? And if so how badly? Well, I decided to go visit my friend Chilungee (or whatever his name is), the dude from Kayak Africa. When I got there, another gent was there with some books. It looked like he was someone from Kayak Africa so I asked him what the situation was…. Yip, I was ripped off, and at that exact point I decided that I will not pay for anything further. I was quite happy to abandon all my plans & try and get a refund. The gent from Kayak Africa seemed not to want to get too involved but it was clear to me…I’ve been had!! My friend Chilungu looked stressed & nervous and after his colleague from Kayak Africa left, we had serious chat. By then his friend John was also there as he was also an interested and affected party. Chilungoo (or whatever) had in my view got greedy & abused his position at Kayak Africa to solicit money out of me. I saved $40 by showing them in no uncertain terms that I was not going to take this lying down! Anyway, I gathered my stuff & met John with his boat at 10Am & headed out to Kumbe Island. Turned out to be a great day. Did some scuba diving, which was okay. Battled to go down..too shallow; also did some snorkelling, tried a hand at fishing, had a fish braai on the island, did some more snorkelling, fed some Fish Eagles, fed the fish in the lake & headed back to Fat Monkeys. John took me to meet his wife and new baby (1 day old!) but only after we stopped at a local soccer match. Chembe vs Bad Boys (2-3). All in all I feel that I got my monies worth although I still feel that……oh well, let’s just leave it at that! Tomorrow I leave Cape Maclear and head toward Nkhokhota Bay, some 250km away. Tired, need some sleep!”

Day 13 - 18 July 2005 Cape Maclear to Bua River campsite, Nkhotakhota, Malawi “Today is my 34th birthday ☺ I feel sad but happy at the same time. I think for obvious reasons it was a good day on the road. Drove 300km & although I liked it at Fat Monkeys, it was time to move on. I wasn’t sure where I was going to land up but I read about a campsite in Nkhotakhota, a remote campsite…somewhere in central Malawi.

Thought about going to Nkhata Bay but when I worked out the distance to go, I would have reached there in the dark. So Bua River campsite it was. As I sit here and write this, I am the only person in the ‘campsite’. It is on the banks of the Bua River, where in 2002, a woman was eaten by a lion! Its wild, it’s quiet & it’s amazing & beautiful. The guide book calls it a ‘secret waiting to be discovered’. There are no facilities but I am equipped well to stay maybe another 2 days at most. But a special place to be on my birthday. I now know why I did this trip, to spend quality time with myself… It’s a very special (birth)day in my life. My heart & mind is content….”

Day 14 - 19 July 2005 Bua Camp, Nkhotakhota to Nyika Plateau National Park, Malawi “I arranged yesterday to do a guided walk with Andrew, the reserve’s Guide. At 7 o clock he promptly arrived and after a quick cup of coffee, we were off. The walk started off by going past Andrew’s home and gradually, we made our way northward through some thick bush. The bird life was okay, but nothing spectacular yet. Then came the burnt stuff, my least favourite part of the walk. It seemed as though the bush burnt the previous day so it was still smouldering in some sections. Eventually we got out at the river’s edge where we quickly took some photos and sneaked up on crocodiles basking in the sun…brilliant moment! Bird sightings included Palm-nut Vulture and possible Whyte’s Barbet. At the end of the hike, I thanked Andrew, packed up and headed for Nyika Plateau National Park, some 400km away. Yet again. I had to traverse a bad 180km gravel road, 60km in the Park. Am concerned about the Landy’s performance as these roads seem to hammer the car. On many occasions, there were just too many tracks to choose from. The accuracy on the GPS was becoming an issue. So I stopped on occasion to confirm which way. Each time crowds would gather. One character sent me on a wild goose chase in the wrong direction! Fortunately I was able to track back to where I should be…bugger! Anyway, when I got to Thazima Gate, it was already 17H15 but the lady at the gate let me through to drive to Chilinda Camp. Not a nice road & I missed a big section of the Park by driving in the dark. A fleeting sighting of a Side-striped Jackal made it worth all the effort; checked in at reception & headed back to the campsite where I set up in the dark & freezing cold. Hectic day. Had a braai, had a huge fire going and slept at 23H00. Tomorrow is a rest day.”

Day 15 - 20 July 2005 Day 2 - Nyika Plateau National Park, Malawi “I got up at about 08H00. While it was a clear day, it was still very cold. But the rooftop tent, as always, was very cosy and I slept very well. I decided that today was laundry and Landy clean-up day & also that I would use the ground tent (in prep for Kili!). So half the day was spent cleaning up & repacking. Had a quick bite for lunch & decided to go for a drive. Headed first for a nearby lake where I saw what I thought was Brown Hyena footprints in the mud. Then headed for Zovo Forest where I did a walk but saw no birds. I then headed for Chomo Viewpoint at sunset but didn’t make it and again found myself driving in the dark to get back to camp. When I arrived at the campsite, a huge surprise awaited me – the entire campsite was filled with overlanders!! I had to move my ground tent so as not to ‘take over’ the place. All these people seem to speak French & a Landy with French number plates has parked right next to me! They are noisy and

have taken over the whole place. All part of the experience I guess. It is very cold again tonight. Hope I get a good night’s sleep.”

Day 16 - 21 July 2005 Day 3 - Nyika Plateau National Park, Malawi “Today I decided to head out to the south eastern part of the park. Planned to go to Kasaramba Indigenous Forest, some 40km away. Also nearby was the Juniper Forest. It was a long and dusty drive out there, with many steep hills requiring low range – the stuff that gets me excited. Left Chilinda campsite at 07H00 & got to Juniper at 10H30 – was told by the game guard that the road to Kasaramba is very bad and that I should instead head out to Juniper. En route to Juniper I saw a Stanley’s Bustard quite close by. Once at Juniper, I saddled up, daypack in hand & headed out. About 10 minutes in to the walk I spotted a Fulborne’s Boubou. The walk through the forest was short and when I got through, I decided to go down the stream and once beyond it, bashed through some major bush… Although I didn’t see much by way of birding, it was an adventure! It started getting too hectic and I turned back & headed straight up the hill. It was suitable Kilimanjaro training! Eventually I made it back to the old log cabin where the Landy was parked. & where I spotted my next new bird, Southern Mountain Greenbul. Had a quick bite to eat then decided to head back (the ants were nailing me). The drive back was good. Popped in at reception to pay for the map & a Nyika sticker. Tried to get some diesel in vain & decided to get back to camp where I had a chicken braai. The camp site was quiet with only one other couple in a hiker’s tent. The evening was well while the fire burned through the night…..”

Day 17 - 22 July 2005 Nyika National Park, Malawi to Mbeya, Tanzania (Stockholm Hotel) ”After packing up the Landy, I had a look at the problem I’ve been having for the last couple of days...the dust cap on the rear axle keeps coming off. Have used the first spare dust cap already & had the last one so decided to fit it on with the hope that it will hold. The road to the exit gate was very very dusty. I call it the fine ‘Talcum Powder stuff’ – gets in everywhere. Not long and I was out of the park after dropping from 2400m ASL to about 500m ASL. But the departure from the Park was the beginning of an epic 12 hour trip for the day. I covered 213km in 8 hours through some of the worse gravel roads I’ve seen. The Landy, yet again, took a pounding. I stopped at one point to check if the dust cap was on – it was, but only just. Decided to remove it as it was definitely going places! Eventually I got to Songwe border post where I checked out of Malawi & checked into Tanzania. The Malawian official tried to solicit MK1200 out of me, almost like a final straw…these guys just don’t give up! But Tanzania…what a shock to the system. Got through customs at about 17H15 and entered Tanzania with the intention of camping ‘nearby’. Not to be. I eventually landed up driving all the way to Mbeya, some 120km from the border gates. I was tired and agitated at not being able to see in the dark. Eventually, at a police checkpoint, I was directed to Stockholm Hotel where I was allowed to ‘camp’ in the parking lot for TS7000. I was absolutely shattered & buggered. Not to mention that my French friends from Nyika were also there…the noise the next morning was unlike anything in this world…at 5AM!!!”

Day 18 - 23 July 2005 Mbeya, Tanzania (Stockholm Hotel) to Kisolanza Farm “Awoke this morning to the sound of drums, trucks, cars and Frenchman. Too noisy at too early in the morning. But quite an eventful day. I started out by folding up the tent, having some breakfast & headed for the bank to change money. Alongside the bank was a workshop. Decided to have the dust cap on the side-shaft problem attended to & at the same time, changed the oil filter, diesel filter, diff oil & greased the prop shaft joints. Learnt quite a lot fromLazaro, the mechanic who was doing the ‘safari check-up’. From there, I headed to an internet café where I read some emails. Then it was off to Kisolanza farm. Not a bad drive, tar all the way but Tanzanian drivers are crazy! Had a good time driving out here. As I arrived at Kisolanza, I met the owner who told me to do a sunset walk, which I did…arguably the best sunset I’ve ever seen. Beautiful. Had supper, showered, some pears and custard for dessert & off to bed….”

Day 19 - 24 July 2005 Kisolanza farm to Tungamela Camp, Ruaha National Park, Tanzania “Today was a slow & resting day. I got up lazily after one of my best nights in the rooftop tent. I remember awakening in the middle of the night thinking I was at home, back in Boskruin, in my bed! But I had a great night’s sleep and felt fully recharged. Had breakfast & contemplated staying a second night in Kisolanza farm but after due consideration decided to pack it & move on toward Ruaha National Park, some 130km away from Iringa. Earlier today, I had a serious planning session on how I was going to go about spending my time in Tanzania, Kenya & Uganda & the balance of the 90 days. I considered my options and whether I was really going to go to Zanzibar & whether my budget would allow for it. In the end, I decided to go to Ruaha Nationl Park tomorrow, then head out toward Kilimanjaro, do the climb, then Serengeti, the Crater & Kenya & Uganda and make my way back toward Dare salaam from the west of Tanzania & then south into Mozambique with the option of going into Zimbabwe if I ran out of time and money. So I’ve got a plan & here’s to a great time in the Great Rifle Valley. As I sit here in the ground tent arranging my bedding, I’m excited & plan to get up early & head towards Ruaha.”

Day 20 - 25 July 2005 Ruaha National Park, Tanzania. “The day began early for me. I wanted to be early at the gates, I guess an old Kruger habit. I left Tungamalenga at about 05H15 and reached the Msembe entrance gate at Ruaha 27km later. It was still dark & a pleasant gent came up to me & told me that I was ‘too early’ and that it was dark! Politely I told him that I will wait until the gate opened at 06H30. He asked me where I was from while he told me that the river in front of us was the Great Ruaha…the sun started making a move, over the Baobabs. It was going to be a great day. 06H30 came & went and the clerk who was meant to be at the entrance office, was late. At 06H40 he arrived in a dismal mood. The office had no light but he began doing his job in earnest. He had a Serengeti hat on, which I liked & thought appropriate! Eventually, with all the paperwork done, Ruaha guide in hand, I headed into the Park. Crossed the bridge as the sun rose above the Baobabs…great sight. Not long & I started seeing new birds like crazy. The birding was phenomenal. The park was dry & I chose to do the early morning drive along the river course. Wildlife was plentiful. Had my first sighting

of a Lesser Kudu & Grant’s Gazelle. Elephants plenty, but the cats, to my disappointment eluded me. I looked for long and hard but not even find any lion or leopard spoor. But Ruaha did not disappoint – sections of the park was breathless in their beauty. I saw Baobab trees scattered across the landscape. Eventually I made it to the exit gates only to be told by a rifle-wielding park official that I was late. What I didn’t see was that the entry clerk had given me until 18H50 to exit the park, exactly 12 hours. So he actually made up for being and I felt that my earlier frustrations with him were vindicated! I headed back to Tungamalenga. Cooked pasta with some chicken fillet, showered (with a mighty cockroach) and had a great night’s sleep.”

Day 21 - 26 July 2005 Tungamalenga to Malela Nzuri Campsite, Tanzania. “This morning, I could not get up! I remember drifting in and out of deep sleep many times. In this time I had many different dreams, mostly bad stuff. Don’t know why. Seems to be a regular occurrence since I left for this trip. I’ve been bitten plenty by insects, mostly mosquitoes. It appears that the insect repellent’s effectiveness does not last. I hope none of these bites are serious, like a spider or something. I left Tungamalenga saying goodbye to Godfrey, the guy at the campsite. Headed back to Iringa where I decided to pump up the Landy’s tyres, for tar driving. While doing this, an Indian gent, Mahesh Solanki pulled up behind me & I started chatting to him. An interesting character who spent much of his life in Tanzania. Before I knew it, he had me following him to a workshop to repair the third fuel tank problem on the Landy!! Whilst at ‘Raju’s workshop’, Solanki arranged a pizza for me, bought me coke in a bar and introduced me to his wife and daughter at his shop (after he whisked me around town). Quite an adventure! Eventually the auto electrician managed to repair the problem, which turned out to be a faulty switch. I said my goodbyes to Solanki and headed out toward to Malela Nzuri campsite. But before getting to the campsite, the highway passes through Mikumi National Park. What an amazing concept….riding through a Big 5 park on a national highway. I was thrilled at seeing elephant, zebra & impala. Even saw hoards of vultures which I went back to have a look at. Amazing! Eventually I reached Malela Nzuri campsite. The attendants there tried to rip me off but even then, I couldn’t believe how easy people thought it was to rip off tourists. Bastards! I felt like leaving because I must have had “Idiot” or “rob me” written on my face. I pitched the rooftop tent & got the camp fire going. Very relaxing evening was spent in the bush. Didn’t sleep too well and had some more bad dreams.”

Day 22 - 27 July 2005 Malela Nzuri Campsite to Honey Badger Cultural Village campsite, Tanzania. “Today was another long day on the road again. Drove about 626km in all. I was trying to make it to Moshi – well, not quite, but I made to within 7km. I am here at the Honey Badger Campsite place thingy. Not really a campsite in my view, a bit too damp & muddy.

The road was eventful and scenic, with the Usumbara Mountains flanking me for quite some time. I thought about many things in the car but mostly about the Kilimanjaro climb. I’m anxious and nervous – thinking about doing the ‘Coca-Cola’ route – Marango. Hoping to organise the climb by tomorrow – afraid it might work out too expensive. If that is the case, I may very much decide not to do the hike. Will see what happens tomorrow. The bite on my hand has deteriorated very badly & I am very worried. Hope to find a doctor or hospital that will look at it. It may be a very serious spider bite or the dreaded Phutse fly (“Nairobi fly”) that has laid eggs under the skin. Hopefully tomorrow, I’ll know a bit better. In the rooftop now, going to lala salaama!”

Day 23 - 28 July 2005 Moshi, Tanzania. “Another night in the rooftop tent and another night with strange dreams. I awoke (again) to the sounds of fowls crowing. A campsite with fowls crowing is not the same as waking up to the sounds of bushveld birds. It is then not a campsite! I took my time about things and got tricked into an expensive breakfast, as it turned out. Mama Lucy is a shrewd woman but her little soliciting stunts have convinced me that I won’t visit the Honey Badger Cultural village again. After breakfast I showered and left after Mama Lucy gave me directions to the hospital in Moshi. Found it easy enough and after paying TSH5000 ‘consultation’ fee for a doctor to have a look the bite. The doctor didn’t say much but after reading her crude notes it seems it’s an allergic reaction to insect bites. As I write this, the swelling has decreased somewhat & I feel more content knowing that it is not a spider bite. Take some pills, apply ointment, as per ‘doctors’ recommendations. Relieved, I left the Landy parked outside the hospital and decided to walk through the town in search of Zara International, my preferred Kilimanjaro Climb organisers. After some haggling, I eventually settled to do the 5 days Marangu Route up to the top of Africa. I am now very excited and anxious about this prospect & obviously concerned about making it there, mountain sickness being the main concern. I headed out to Moshi town after paying for the climb, to Springland Hotel (which I almost had to pay for) & have settled here for the rest of the day. There were a few annoyances & frustrations but all’s well ends well….I hope. I organised my climbing gear & had a belated briefing session with my guide, Dixon. He seems very young but experiences enough to see me through to the Top. After the briefing session, I did some packing & decided to have a coke in the garden bar after checking emails quickly @ TSH1000/15 minutes. Supper was at 19H30, which was a buffet. Tomorrow I start the climb and Insha-Allah, I will succeed. Signing off….” Day 24: 29 July 2005 Day 1 – Kilimanjaro climb, Headquarters to Mandara Hut 2720 ASL “The day started off late - I didn’t hear the alarm so missed my planned early start. But no problem, got my stuff sorted out, had breakfast at 08H00 and took all the extra stuff to the Landy. I was really excited and took all my stuff downstairs and hung around with everyone else waiting for the transport to collect us. Eventually I hopped into a taxi and was on my way. At this point I still haven’t seen the mountain. There was an ex South African in the taxi with me also doing the climb. Very talkative guy but good to exchange stories.

Eventually we made to Kilimanjaro National Park where I checked in and then waited – my guide, Dixon disappeared for an hour leaving me standing in the rain. The weather has been very miserable, cold and wet. Soon I was heading up the mountain. It was rainforest all the way. After 1 hours and 9 minutes we stopped and had lunch from lunch packs handed to us before we started. It consisted of a boiled egg, some bread, fruit, piece of chicken…it all tasted good. The pace we walked up to this point was fast, I thought, and I followed the assistant guide, Ray. After lunch, Dixon took over and walked VERY slow! The pace from here to the overnight hut was probably to condition me for things to come. Soon I was up to a point where there was no more rain, so I removed my poncho and walked…sorry crawled happily along to Mandara Hut, the first overnight stop. Before I took my pack off, I had to sign in and I was approached by M.A.R.S (Mountain Altitude Respiratory Sickness) students from Oxford Uni who asked if I would be interested in getting involved in their Mountain Sickness research, which I was. It involved blood pressure tests etc for each of the 4 days. Seemed like fun. I was allocated hut no. 4, a 4 bedded A-frame wooden hut. Fortunately, I was alone for tonight. Settled down, had a bit of a wash up, had some tea and relaxed just before supper. Supper was ok. Later in the evening my stomach was upset and think I was getting diarrhoea. But I didn’t. I still think it might have been the altitude sickness tablets but maybe it was the food. Anyway, I went to bed at about 21H30. It was very cold, but sometime during the night it became very hot. Some mosquitoes around but I slept ok.”

Day 25: 30 July 2005 Day 2 – Kilimanjaro climb, Mandara Hut Horombo Hut 3780 ASL “I awoke at 06H30, washed up, had breakfast at about 07H30 & started crawling at 08H40. The pace was, again, excruciatingly slow but I felt ok. There were times when my legs felt tired & sore, but after lunch they were again good. The climb started in the rain forest where we had good views of the Black & White Collobus before leaving Mandara Hut. Soon we walked high enough to have some good visibility above the rain forests but this didn’t last. We took a quick detour to Maweri Crater, which was a bit uneventful. As we got higher, it got more beautiful with each step. The air was clean & pure but the cloud cover still dominated the day. It was disappointing because again, I still haven’t seen the mountain. I did however have fleeting glimpses of Mawenzi Peak & of the glacier. It looked ominous. The crawl was kind of relaxing; all that was on my mind was it must be really difficult to reach the summit. But I am trying to remain positive. I’m up for the challenge!! We had lunch at about 13H00 & reached the second overnight hut, Horombo at 15H40; we walked for 7 hours, probably longer than it should have taken but I didn’t mind the pace. I am in room no. 14 and sharing with an old German couple. The hut is slightly bigger than at Mandara but hectic with 2 strangers. Anyway, supper time soon. All that everyone discusses here is the summit experience……. I am trying to remain positive.”

Day 26: 31 July 2005 Day 3 – Kilimanjaro climb, Horombo Hut to Kibo Hut ??? ASL “We left Horombo Hut at around 0840 after a long night – went to bed 19H30! There is not much to do than to go to bed. At around 21H30 I awoke and went outside. The sky was clear and I saw a

beautiful starlit sky. I hoped that it would carry forward to the next day as I still need to see this mountain! The day dawned and I was not disappointed – the skies were clear and for the first time I could see clearly – Kibo or Uhuru, really really beautiful and awe inspiring. To the right was also Mawenzi Peak, clear and jaggered against a blue sky. I am so glad that I can actually see it, finally. But it did look difficult and I knew that today’s walk was going to be tough. As I shared the room with the 2 x Germans, it took time to get things sorted out but I did and soon we were on our way. The landscape became dry, boulder strewn & dramatic. The total walk for today took about 6 hours 25 minutes, but the cloud cover returned after about 3 hours. It became bitterly cold and as we entered the stunning alpine dessert, it got colder. I put all my warm clothes on that I had & knew it wasn’t enough. But I slogged on, one excruciating step after another. I felt fine & showed no signs of altitude sickness, yet. I was doing my best to remain positive & in a good healthy state, We eventually reached Kibo Hut at 4 780m ASL, Uhuru is 5 865!! But Gillman’s Point will take 5 hours to reach, and then too, you’re still not at the top. Here at Kibo, it is FREEZING. I am lying in my sleeping bag & just counting down to 23H30 when we leave, in the dark!! It seems scary & nerve wrecking. I am anxious. I did the M.A.R.S thing for the day & they reckon I am looking fine & should make it. This is probably the most difficult thing I’ve ever attempted other than going back to Wits!! Feels good to be here right here right now. By tomorrow this time, I’ll know, it will all be over. Great or bad, you’ll hear from me!!”

Day 27: 01 August 2005 Day 4 – Kilimanjaro climb, Kibo Hut to Uhuru Peak to Horombo Hut “I did it!!! 10.5 hours total walking time. What an unbelievable experience. For me, my greatest achievement yet. Been through some tough times but nothing matches this. The day started at 11pm, we set out for Uhuru by 11.36PM. It was dark but the skies were clear! With each step, I knew it was towards a great thing…reaching the top of Africa. No easy feat it would be.It started off good but as we rose in altitude with each step, it became tougher & tougher. I had no idea and it was nothing I’ve ever imagined. The ground was soft and thick grave-like strewn with boulders. Had no idea what was around me and for that reason it was a good things we did this at night! Some climbers passed us on the way up to Gillman’s Point; so I could tell from their headlights how far up they were. They made it known when they reached Gillman’s Point with garbled shouting. But for me I battled and slogged it out, one painful step after another. I struggled. It was proving extremely painful to separate a positive attitude from a non-compliant body. Mind says yes, body says no. Anyway, I prayed a lot up to Gillman’s Point. Somewhere, just before this, we had tea with the rising moon and clear starlit sky as a backdrop. My favourite part of the day, as was reaching the summit. My fingers were so frozen that I dipped my fingers in the tea but got a prompt scolding from Dixon! Eventually we made it to Gillman’s Point, some 5 800m ASL. When I asked Dixon how far to Uhuru, he claimed, “1 hour!” LIES! An hour and 30 minutes later, when I repeated my question, this time he answered “45 minutes”!! It was the toughest 45 minutes of my life. I remember gasping for air, dropping to my knees…all I wanted was to sleep. Every step was painful, excruciatingly slow, mind shattering and heart-breaking. I think I had very little control over my mind. It was an ordeal of immense proportions. And there is no way a map can tell you what a steep incline entails…No way! When we got to Uhuru with the sun breaking on the horizon, there is no way to describe that feeling and all the surrounding beauty that goes with it. God is great as I have seen now. A very humbling, yet fulfilling experience. It has brought me closer to my Creator. Kilimanjaro. Done it!”

Some quotes from fellow climbers: “Like nothing you’ve ever imagined!” – Aussie tourist “We are crazy. Stupid!” – German tourist “”It is not east to reach Uhuru” – Dixon, my Guide “I have a sore leg.” – Japanese tourist “Never again!!” – Anon “Fascinating experience..so bad so amazing!” – Anon “Hardest thing I’ve done” - Anon “Tough as hell” – Anon “I’m exhausted” – Anon “Kilimanjaro was my Everest” - Anon

Day 28: 02 August 2005 Day 4 – Kilimanjaro climb, Day 5 - Horombo Hut to Springlands Hotel, Tanzania “The walk back to the bottom of the mountain was painful. The downhill was pretty severe on my knees, shins and toes. We walked for nearly 6 hours in this way but there were also rewards – got to see the sections of the hike that I didn’t see whilst going up due to the “White Stuff’! We stopped over at Mandara Hut for a quick lunch then resumed our downhill journey. At the Kilimanjaro National Park reception I was issued with a completion certificate which I am very proud of! The ride back top Springlands was there so I left Kilimanjaro still in awe about my latest achievement….monumental!. During the ride back, I thought about what I was going to tip my team. Eventually it came down to three options: $150, $135 or $120. I chose the middle option which I thought was fair. Once at Springlands hotel, Dixon my Guide hung around waiting for his tip. When I sat him down & explained how I got to $135, he was disappointed. It was rather displeasing for me to see his reaction but I guess he is probably accustomed to getting more. In my mind, I still feel that I will somehow make it up to him, maybe post him the difference? We’ll see. Back at the hotel, I was relieved to have a bed but to my absolute disgust, had no hot water! So (another) cold shower it was after 5 days in hell!! Slept well after a decent supper and had intentions of leaving Moshi for Arusha.” Day 29: 03 August 2005 Moshi to Arusha, Kigongoni Campsite, Tanzania “My day started with breakfast with James & Jenny, my friends whilst doing the Kili Climb. It was quite amusing (and somewhat unfair!) to criticise the “Kili Fresh Meat”, those about to “eat from the snake”. Said goodbye to my guides & friends & headed for Moshi town to try and get some curios & make a phone call home. I left Moshi and headed out to Arusha, some 66km away. The drive there was fairly busy, lots of towns and people along the way. I parked in the centre of town and made the call home. It was so good hearing mum’s voice again. She was glad I called. I took a walk around town and was continuously

harassed by guys trying to sell me a safari or some curio. They can really get under your skin and I let them!! Anyway, I bought some gifts and curios and exchanged money. Whilst I bought some guides for the Parks I intended visiting, I still did not get any maps. For this and information about Parks’ entry costs, I headed out to Tanzania National Parks headquarters (TANAPA) on the outskirts of Arusha. I was helped by a kind lady who was very occupied. No maps but I got the price list and was also horrified to learn about a price increase effective from 01/01/2006….horrific!! From there it was off to Shoprite as my supplies were pretty low & then off to Kigongoni Camp site. The landscape became flat & open. Stopped at a little town to fill diesel. Here I encountered some locals who tried selling me curios. Among them was some Masai women who were in a pretty bad shape, begging for money, selling miniscule things and strong liquor on the breath. Sad and disappointing to see. But I guess this exists in every society. So it was off to Kigongoni campsite, a small campsite en route to Tarangire National Park. I arrived at about 18H00, enough time to to allocated to, no wait, relegated to one corner, where local kids kept muttering ‘Hello’ through the gap-filled wooden slatted fence! This annoyed me slightly at first but with the plan to spend 3 nights here, my patience was going to be tested. I pitched the ground tent, had a braai and slept reasonably ok. Tomorrow it was a day off. My body is still sore.” Day 30: 04 August 2005 Kigongoni Campsite, Tanzania - Day 2 “Today was a lazy, rest, clean-up day. I felt that my body had still not fully recovered from the Kilimanjaro climb, so 3 days at Kigongoni was good. I arranged to have my clothes washed and cleaned up the Landy a bit. The campsite caters mostly for safari operators so tents are pitched and broken down again and again. Anyway, my location was not good and I arranged with John, the campsite manager-guy to move my Taj Mahal. So I did, towards the middle of the campsite way from the fence, where the kids drove me absolutely berserk!! Then some tourists came & chatted to me. 1 x German, 1 x Austrian and 1 x Slovakia. Hot stuff!! We spoke for maybe 2 hours while they waited for the cook to organise lunch. We discussed many things but I wanted to do some other stuff so felt they were just killing time. But hey no hurry in Africa! Anyway, eventually they left giving me time to have a quick lunch and shower and I just relaxed for the rest of the day. That night, my Slovakian friend came over and asked me to download some pics onto a CD. So I agreed to this – but there were 2 problems – he didn’t have his own CD and we were talking 273 pictures at 6.1Mb each!! This would take nearly an hour to download, and the progress was slow and painful! I think the battery was drained so I had to start the Landy to charge the battery as the inverter was complaining with an odd buzzing sound. As the pictures completed downloading, the rest of the gang rocked up. We chatted about lots of things and I showed them my Kilimanjaro pictures which they enjoyed. At 22H30 I said my goodbyes and everybody left. Tomorrow it was off to Tarangire National Park.” Day 31: 05 August 2005 Kigongoni Campsite to Tarangire National Park, Tanzania. ”Awoke at 05H00 in anticipation of my first visit to Tarangire. It’s only 5km away from Kigongoni on a horrible piece of corrugated gravel. Paid my entry fees and I was in. Very dry but beautiful. Very similar to Ruaha but with more flat open spaces. Tonnes of elephant as usual. But as the day carried on, I was wondering if I was ever going to

see anything resembling a cat! My luck, I feel, has run out and I tried all sorts of theories to explain this bad run of form on cat-spotting. I think the Bataleur theory needs mentioning…slightly problematic! [As the theory goes, when you see a Bataleur flying above, there are lions close by! Needless to say….!!] Anyway the drought eventually broke when I saw a lioness on a buffalo kill about 3m from the car! What a beauty! I am so glad, so happy. I’ve never seen such a sight in Kruger so close. Other good sightings…plenty of new birds and Thompson’s Gazelle. All in all, a good day. I left the park at 18H00 and at Kigongoni, the curse of the safari operators. The entire campsite was swamped with them. Tents all around. Disappointing but what the hell, tomorrow I’m off to Lake Manyara. Can’t wait!” Day 32: 06 August 2005 Kigongoni Campsite to Twiga Campsite, Tanzania. “Today I left Kigongoni and headed out to Lake Manyara National Park. Not sure where I was going to stay – in the Park or another campsite. Saw the ‘Twiga Campsite’ sign & so turned in and made some enquiries. TSH5000 pppn. Ok but I couldn’t park the Landy on the lawn & would yet again be relegated to a corner. I moved on to Lake Manyara, which seemed busy and would cost a total of $120 to enter and camp in the Park. I decided to go back to Twiga. For sure, I was relegated to the corner, which smelled bad and looked grimy. As I sit here now and ponder my decision to stay here, I feel that maybe I should have stayed in the Park. The cost is always the inhibiting factor and if one could just see how good (or bad) a place fits into my budget, I’d make decisions a bit easier, I feel. Be that as it may, I’ve decided to remain at Twiga and take it in as part of the experiences. I hope to camp in the Serengeti & Ngorongoro Crater as I feel that the true experience lies here, inside the Parks. More later.” Day 33: 07 August 2005 Twiga Campsite to Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania. I left Twiga at 16H30 never to return! Headed straight for Lake Manyara National Park. As expected, the official at the gate was late by some 15 minutes. Not long and I was in the Park. Was surprised by how green it was and how big the trees were. Spent some time at a pool packed with hippo. Was amazed by the vast openness of Manyara. Travelled mostly south and reached the hot springs after which I turned back and headed out. All through the driving in the Park, I was astonished to see how empty the Lake was. I guess this is the dry season. But even in these vast open empty spaces one could still see game. Giraffe and buffalo seemed to prefer staying in the open and ‘safety’ of the Lake area. Manyara is renowned for its “tree climbing lions” so that may explain part of it. The game kept away from the wooded areas. Even though I didn’t see any cats, the bush is alive with the prospect of seeing lion, and perhaps leopard. As I left Manyara, I headed toward Panorama campsite. But before getting there, the road winds up the top of the plateau & offers great views over Lake Manyara. A fitting end to an exciting day. At Panorama, I met my German/Austrian/Slovakian friends from Kigongoni. I arranged supper with the campsite manager and enjoyed a little bit of relaxation with my European friends. Tomorrow it’s off to Ngorongoro Crater. Am knackered and excited!” Day 34: 08 August 2005 Panorama Campsite to Ngorongoro Crater, Simba Campsite, Tanzania “I arranged a ‘great’ breakfast at Panorama and left at 07H30, after saying final goodbyes to my friends. Was excited at the prospect of Ngorongoro, another famous place in Africa.

I first stopped in Karata to stock-up, after the usual price haggling. I bumped into an old acquaintance from Twiga, a Rastafarian by the name of Johnny. Quite funny! It was off to the crater and when I got to the entrance gate, it was shocking to see all vehicles and people. Busy. I waited about 30 minutes, not sure what time to enter. The earlier you go in, the earlier you must leave, 24 hours later. I decided that I’d like to spend as time as possible in the Crater so decided to enter and deal with the time issue later. Entered at 10H30 and was immediately in awe of the place. Not what I expected. Green lush bush. Eventually I made it to the crater entrance where the permits are checked. The view into the Crater from above….no words. The descant was pretty steep and not long, I was on the crater floor, game viewing! It was flat and dry and very dusty. Saw lions, cheetah trying to hunt warthog right front of the Landy, leopard, black rhino, spotted hyena (many) ellies and buff. All in an hour! Arguably my greatest day’s viewing yet. The leopard was a great bonus and made up for other things… That night, I stayed in the rooftop tent and froze! But the braai made up for that. Tomorrow it will be off to the Serengeti National Park. I’ve waited my whole life for this. As I write this, I am sitting here at the entrance. But that’s for tomorrow!”

Day 35: 09 August 2005 Ngorongoro Crater to Serengeti National Park, Tanzania “I left the Simba campsite at 07H15. Needed to be out by 10H05 but I was still keen on visiting Olduvai (oldupai?) Gorge. I knew it would be tight but I pushed onto Olduvai as time was short. When I got there, I chatted to some safari guides who told me that it would take 1.5 hours to reach the exit/entry point – all in all, about 50km. Made it with 5 minutes to spare on what is the most horrific gravel road yet!! Relieved that I made it, I am now waiting to enter the great Serengeti National Park, at around 15H00 to give me enough time to exit the northern end of the Park, Ndabaka Gate, some 143km from the public campsite. It is now 13H51 …zzzz I at entered the park at 15H00 after waiting in a queue to get in. Destination was the ‘not so busy’ Tumbila public campsite, 1 of 6 public campsites. The Serengeti plains were dry and dusty. Not long and I had my first glimpse of a lioness. Was somewhat relieved especially since I had no sightings in some of the other Parks! I was extremely excited to be here….The Great Serengeti. The distance to Tumbila campsite was 45km so I progressed nice and easy. Close to Tumbila, I spotted some vultures and then saw a lioness feeding on something. Spent the rest of the evening here and left to inspect a potential campsite for the night. The campsite was as expected, chocker-block but I found myself a suitable spot. This would also be the second night I used the Turboshower gadget thingy, under the cover of darkness. Good fun!! Cooked me some pasta and chicken fillet, which was as always, lekka! Then it was off to bed and up early in the morning for what I hope will be a good day’s game viewing. The lions called all around the camp tonight. Truly Africa.” Day 36: 10 August 2005 Serengeti National Park, Tanzania – Day 2 “What a day! Today was probably my best day’s game viewing, ever! I think that in all my visits to Kruger, I have not seen so much as I have today…plenty lion, 2 x cheetah, 1 x leopard, plenty buffalo, elephants, tonnes of Zebra and Wildebeest…lots of everything. I chose to drive around Seronera, the best area for game viewing. For this same reason, all the safari vehicles with their foreign guests hurried up and down these roads, all day. Their 2-way radio communication ensured that everyone saw everything. Off course, I didn’t have this advantage but

just needed to look out for Landy’s zooting off in a certain direction and a huge collection of vehicles. For example, at the leopard sighting, I was caught up in the worst traffic jam yet. It meant that I had to get out by climbing over a high kerb and bush-bash my way out. A helluva experience!! VIVA LAND ROVER! That night I headed back to the campsite. Decided to steal a shower at the ‘unused’ campsite. Enjoyed this this as it felt wrong but for the right for reasons…the dust gets in everywhere…bad hair day every day! Back at the campsite, a bus full of kids showed up. The campsite was very noisy until late. I parked between 2 safari vehicles. One left not too long after I pitched up. Chose not to open the rooftop tent just as I had a feeling I would move….the kids pitched their tent very close to my braai, which has been consistently excellent! Then, a safari driver, who was parked in front of me, asked if I could move back slightly back as his car may not start and he needed to the space to kick the thing if necessary. At that moment I decided to move the Landy across to the other side. I moved the Landy, went back and fetched the braai bones which I left out for the Hyena’s (not true just kidding!). I got into the tent with loud talking and laughter and faded out. At 03H41, I heard crunching of bones (not mine!) outside the Landy. Woke up and had my torch in hand ready. Scanned the bushes and saw 2 reflective eyes, then a hunched creature walking away. The Hyena…has been spotted!”

Day 37: 11 August 2005 Serengeti National Park (Day 3) to Serengeti Stop Over, Tanzania “I left Tumbila campsite at 07H30 and headed out towards Ndabaka gate, the north western exit gate in Serengeti. Saw lions, twice, both my own spotting. Spotted a male lion at close quarters. The Tsetse flies bothered and infuriated him endlessly. He kept rubbing his nose and sores on his face as if to cover them up. But the flies wouldn’t stop. Then he would try biting them, shaking his mighty head angrily, licking his paws, swipe at the flies…this went on. Eventually he got up to try and alleviate his problem but to no avail. It was quite amusing watching this but not too amusing. I’ve been having my own problems with Tsetsi flies. They bite sore and don’t seem bothered by insect replant. I mostly drive with the windows closed in the Park. So aircon usage (fuel consumption) has increased. They are attracted to the movement of the car. Have a can of Doom close at hand and I must have killed 20 to 30 of the bastards. It takes a bit of skill to swat them while they sit on your hands and legs. They are sharp and react quickly….one has to wait for the prick, look to the spot slowly but swiftly and silently….SLAP! I am sitting now as the Serengeti Stop-over campsite which I am relaxing and doing some catching up. Am parked under a nice and shady Acacia but suspect that overland trucks will rock up anytime to disturb the peaceful afternoon I am enjoying. All part of the experience I guess. Tomorrow it’s off to Kenya. Not sure where I will exchange money and where I will stay. I am thinking about it so I better pay attention!”

Day 38: 12 August 2005 Serengeti Stop Over to Temba Beach Lodge, Tanzania “Yip! I am still in Tanzania…left Serengeti Stop-over with the plan of getting to Musoma then heading off to Kenya. Well, I made it to Musoma but I am still here. After checking emails and filling some diesel, I was told about someone who can fix Land Rovers. I should not actually continue this conversation because it’s just a bad sad story of frustration, anguish and tension.

I agreed a price of TSH3000 with my ‘mechanic’ friend but at the end of today, money is not the issue. He went about stripping the entire front hub assembly on the Landy. After some time it became apparent that he and his football team of assistants were not too clued up and this sent me into panic mode. I really feel like made a wrong a decision here. Thoughts of me being stranded here in Tanzania or breaking down somewhere in Africa & never reaching home crossed my mind all the time. I was worried sick about whether the Landy would be the same after this and if I was ever going to leave that place. It was agonising! The guy estimated ‘a quarter of an hour’ to do the job. He started at 13H22 and at 17H30 I was still there. I met a guy who worked in Rwanda and he offered some help by taking me to a friend nearby who ‘knows Land Rovers’. So after ‘Team A’ ‘re-assembled’ the hub it was off to ‘Team B’….they were definitely more clued up and diagnosed a clanging sounds in the steering box and suggested that I get it done in Nairobi at CMC Motors or something. I said my goodbyes to Team B and returned to Team A, paid them the agreed price and headed out here to Temba Beach Resort on the banks of Lake Victoria. Nice feel to the place but I’ve just made things worse for myself by jamming the backdoor lock!! Stupid! I must be an idiot, but I decided to go to bed and deal with it in the morning…enough for today! Let’s hope it can be fixed.”

Day 39: 13 August 2005 Tembo Beach Lodge, Tanzania to Masai Mara National Park, Kenya “Well, I had a restless night, the backdoor issue keeping me awake. Got going early and paid for the camping and at the same time asked the guy at Tembo if he knew of anyone who could repair the lock. He said ‘yes’ and sent Joseph with me. Off course I was reluctant to go with him and after a small discussion with myself, I agreed to take him with. As I got to the place, the guy in the workshop said that the lock could not be repaired and suggested that I consider buying a new lock. So off I went to the spares shop run by an Indian. TSH68000 for a new lock!! No way Jose! I couldn’t afford that. But he did suggest that I go to Musoma Metal Works to try and repair it but he also said that if one part of the lock is damaged or broken, the entire lock will be rendered useless. I decided to take my chances. So off to Musoma Metal Works it was. They were fixing another old Landy so my confidence leaped to 10%!! The guy got busy with the lock, opened it, put it back together and it was fixed!! When they refitted it to the back door, we noticed that the back door still had a problem. My guy who fixed the lock pointed out that the hinge bolts on the back door needed replacing. So off I was to the spares shop, run by an Indian. I only had TSH4000 with me, he wanted TSH5000. So Joseph, the guy from Temba helped me out with TSH1000. Then it was off to Musoma Metal Works. After a bit of haggling, the door was refitted and to my delight, works better than it ever did. Now it was down to the money, payment. My guy wanted TSH10 000 and I said “No way”!! While it did seem like a lot of work there was no chance in smokin’ hell he was getting a penny more than TSH4000; he made a funny face when I announced my offer, but too bad so sad!! He dropped his price to TSH7000 and I said “TSH4000, take it or leave it!” So he took it and as I got back to the Landy, I noticed my guy having a good chuckle with his mates, my guess is that he probably thought that they ripped me off anyway….ah well! So I left and returned to Tembo, said my thank you to Joseph, took some pics and headed for the Kenyan border after stopping at a supermarket for some supplies. The Kenyan border was busy, lots of people about. I went in at customs and needed to get a disc for the car, some lady was assisting me. The old man who issued the discs ignored me completely. He was

really an old sulky son of a….After about 10-12 minutes of waiting, he eventually made a move to help me. Relieved, I left the border and entered Kenya. WOW! I made it to Kenya. I was thrilled and even more excited about getting to the Great Masaai Mara. So I hastened and got to Oloololo Gate. Got there at 17H00 and decided to camp at the gate. But first I did a quick game drive and found the roads to be bad. This was going to be fun! I hauled out the braai stand and later had a shower outside the car…good! Slept at 21H30 in great anticipation of tomorrow!”

Day 40: 14 August 2005 Masai Mara National Park, Oloololo Gate to Sand River Campsite, Kenya “What an unbelievable day I had! Saw lions, lions, lions. Never in the last 20 visits to Kruger have I had so close encounters with lions. They were all around the car and the veld was littered with carcasses and vultures filled the skies. Truly remarkable, the Masai Mara. Also saw the Wildebeest trying to cross the Mara River in their thousands….even an unsavoury incident with an idiotic safari drives couldn’t stop the fun! It was chaos! Wildebeest in their droves. Those sounds they made...Decided to head out toward the southern Masai, and camp at Sand River, a point where the Serengeti and Masai meet. It’s really nice here & tonight I had my first rainy weather where I had to pack it up quick. Sat in the back of the Landy and drank tea. Fun! When the rain stopped, I hauled out the shower and had a super shower…the lions are roaring outside, probably 1km away. Might be exciting tonight!” Day 41: 15 August 2005 Masai Mara National Park, Sand River Campsite to Members Club Campsite, Kenya “Today, I slept in a bit. Sand River was so nice and quiet & when I awoke at 6am it felt just too nice in the tent so I went back to sleep! The tent really is great…so cosy! I packed it up & left Sand River at about 9am or so and have been driving slowly not sure whether to leave the Park & head out to Narok then Nairobi & stay around there and then head back into Amboseli National Park tomorrow. I parked off on a hill overlooking the Masai Mara’s beautiful animal filled landscape and took the time to plan for the next few days. Decided that I am not in a hurry to leave the Masai and will instead spend more time here today, leave late and camp somewhere outside the Park; then leave early tomorrow for Narok, where I hope to exchange money, fill some diesel & head out to Nairobi, maybe get the Landy checked, buy some meat and head out to Amboseli. All in one day, distance about 500km. It looks like the Amboseli camp site outside the Park and enter early the next day. Let’s see how it pans out. Right now it is 13H55 and I am parked under a Shepherd’s Tree in the Masai, overlooking a grassland dotted with some trees. It’s peaceful except for the odd fly. I am just enjoying it here. More later. It is now 21H10 and I am in Narok!! Left the Masai at 15H45 and even upon leaving I was not sure where I was going. As I left Sekanani Gate, I stopped by a Masai guy who called himself Anton. He tried selling me the Masai brand – a campsite for KSH300, a photo with the Masai & KSH500, a Masai this and a Masai that. This made me a bit despondent so I left looking for something less harassing. I could not find another campsite so referred to my Bradt Travel Guide again and headed for Narok, some 90km away. Knew it would be tight time-wise but with the roads extremely pathetic, it was VERY tight. Did not want to repeat the Tanzania night time experience. Eventually I made it to Members Club campsite in the town of Narok at about 18H35. I arranged the campsite, cooked me some supper and I am now laying in my favourite new place, the rooftop tent.

The place is noisy, smelly, smells like burnt chicken feathers and grimy. There are 2 overland trucks and a pub with lots of cars in and out. The Narok main road is right next to the campsite…city campsite!!”

Day 42: 16 August 2005 Members Club Campsite, Narok, Kenya to Amboseli National Park, Kenya. “This morning I was awoken early – first by the loud Azaan, then by the overlanders packing up and leaving and off course, the usual chorus. So when I got out of the tent, the campsite was very empty – except for the security guard who was milling about waiting to show me where the bank was. This annoyed me. Just ignored him and went about my business – small breakfast and I packed it up. As I was leaving the guard approached me, he was still trying to solicit something out of me. That was the end of that! So off I went…to Nairobi. Busy, dingy, hectic, chaotic maybe sums it up somewhat. Quite a lot like Joburg but Jozi is a lot bigger and hectic. But I saw lots of buildings and infrastructure that I have not seen in a while. I took the video camera and started filming the city and unknowingly filmed some guy selling stuff at the traffic light. He reacted very aggressively and fortunately the traffic started moving. Think I averted a potentially dangerous situation. While in Nairobi, I was trying to get to Nairobi National Park to buy a smart card to enter Amboseli & Tsavo National Parks. I battled at this place, which is also the HQ for Kenya Wildlife Service. Eventually I got all that was needed (or so I thought!) and headed for Amboseli. The roads, as they have been since Narok, were ultra-pathetic. Very bad and worse gravel. I wondered how any car would make it on these roads. Got to Meshanani Gate and about 17H00 and battled with the guys at the gate. Sorry state of affairs but they allowed me through, my destination the Masai run public campsite. Not long and I was lost! Whilst going around in the salt pans, some kind of safari operator helped me and I followed him to the campsite. A busy day. At the campsite, had a braai and slept. Earlier I walked away from the Landy and heard unmistakable growl of a lion from behind some bushes…10m from my campsite! The hyena were busy outside…” Day 43: 17 August 2005 Amboseli National Park to Tsavo West National Park, Public Campsite, Kenya “Awoke early and packed up the tent. My Masai would-be Guide had to be told that I did not need services. Again, I got me into this situation and to get out of it, not easy. With a bit of persuasion, he understood and left. Eish. Half an hour later, he was back to tell me about some escort needed between Amboseli and Tsavo….ya! ya! I couldn’t believe anything this guy told me as he was always trying to make money of me! My day in Amboseli was good. Saw some ‘bald’ headed lions, tonnes of elephant and other goodies. At 14H00, I decided to head for the Kimani Gate and head for Tsavo West National park. Once at the exit gate, the official asked me about my escort. “What escort?” I asked. The Masai guy was not joking, it was a genuine requirement to be escorted to Tsavo. WOW! I was in trouble. After some haggling, I agreed to go back to Serena Lodge to find the ‘GSU House’ and arrange if possible, an escort to accompany me. So back 16km it was. Once I got to Serena, I explained to them my situation and they agreed to send an escort with me. So back it was 16km to Kimani Gate and then 90km to Tsavo with a soldier wielding an AK47 sitting beside me. Another bad gravel road. We had a reasonable discussion in the car. Several military roadblocks on the way. This felt dangerous and nlife threatening. Just followed the GPS and hoped for the best.

We got to Tsavo’s Chyulu Gate at 19H30 where another feisty gate official gave me a hard time. Agreed to sort out my stuff in the morning. My soldier friend said goodbye. I’m in the rooftop tent now, been watching a Large Spotted Genet eating chicken bones!! Another tough day in Africa!!” Day 44: 18 August 2005 Tsavo West National Park, Public Campsite to Tsavo East National Park, Public Campsite, Kenya “I slept in a bit, was really knackered after yesterday’s events. As things go, things were about to get worse… Had a bit of breakfast, filled up the water tanks and headed for Chiyulu Gate to pay for the campsite and Park entry. Got to the gate and my little friend who gave me bit of lip at the gate the previous evening (for coming late) was again there to great me but this time all smiles and formal in a green military uniform. The first question I had to answer was “where is your smart card?” I handed it in at Kimanu Gate, Amboseli, I uttered. And that was the beginning of a long saga or arguing, finger pointing and heated exchanges. My little friend at the gate called another man, a tall Somali-like man who claimed to work for Kenya Wildlife Service Special Investigations. Did I care or what! According to him I was not supposed to hand my smart card in at Kimanu Gate and he immediately wanted names and times of people and places at Ambolseli. I was annoyed because, yet again, I had another conflicting theory. So I went about explaining everything I was told, from the days at Nairobi National Park up to the chums at Kimanu Gate. No, my investigator friend was not happy and then insisted that I be escorted to Mtito Andei Main Gate to get a smart card and pay for the camping. To this I strongly objected, not for $160! I objected to yet another soldier sitting in front with me with an assault rifle! In the end, they followed me to Mtito Andei Gate, some 34kmk away. Upsetting but when we got to the gate, a gent kindly explained that the system had changed some 3 days ago!! Passes were no longer being issued at Chyulu Gate. Any card with no credit had to be handed in (sorry investigator friend) and cards had to be loaded with money prior to entry. Finally someone who knows what’s happening. Eventually I paid my dues, got the card, some official checked it and made a mistake!! He didn’t charge me for the camping!! So the card will have $20 after my Tsavo East visit. It was then off to the shop to buy some curios and have a quick scan of the Joy Adamson exhibition which moved me and then it was off to do a game drive, which didn’t yield any cats, but many elephant and buffalo. Didn’t have much time in Tsavo West and left the Park at Tsavo Gate at about 17H00 and headed for Manyane Gate, Tsavo East National Park, some 12km away. I checked in at Tsavo East and sped (slightly) to Ndololo campsite. For once, I was all alone in an unfenced camp. Set up camp and heard and saw some elephant some 50m away. Heard lions calling and saw Hyena. I did some laundry and after supper whilst opening the rooftop tent, the baboons were going ape-shit and barking mad. Something was there. I grabbed the spotlight in pointed it in the direction of the commotion. And there it was…..a leopard! In the spotlight! Walking past!! I was so excited and tried filming it with the video camera but it wouldn’t focus. The hell with that! I hopped into the Landy and followed it. It went behind some bushes into the river bed and vanished. Amazing! A fully grown male leopard in the camp. In the tent, I heard lions roaring all night. They were very close. Sometime in the night, the Vervet Monkeys were giving off an alarm call. I looked but saw nothing. What a night!” Day 45: 19 August 2005 Tsavo East National Park to Umani Springs Camp, Kenya HALWAY MARK!

“After an adventurous evening, which cost me a lot of sleep, I was tired and couldn’t really get up. When I did, it was a slow drawn out affair and eventually I made it out of Ndololo camp by 09H30. Chose to drive along the river which, again yielded no cats but I did see a Gerenuk for the first time. It was a slow and lazy day in Tsavo East and frequently I thought about my future plans, future holidays and all other things! This place reminded me a lot of Kruger. Similar terrain. I planned to leave the Park at about 16H00. Made it out by 16H30 after pumping up the Landys tyres. While waiting, I thought about going to Mt Kenya and Lake Nakuru National Park then head into Uganda. Not sure where I will end up. For the immediate, I didn’t know where to go from Tsavo East – no campsites around so I decided to just drive towards Nairobi and hopefully find something before it got too dark. I drove on a really shit road. It was better driving off the road! No rules here. Spotted a board saying Chyulu Hills National Park and Umani Springs Camp and off course, after some internal debate in my head, I chose the latter. The drive to get to camp was beautiful and forest unlike anything I’ve seen yet. Quite a special place and I am camping out here, my fire started and the donkey heated by the locals here. It’s a nice place! Hot showers…yay!” Day 46: 20 August 2005 - Day 2 - Umani Springs Camp, Kenya “I am still at Umani Springs Camp. Decided to stay another day I started cleaning up and washing clothes. So I am here just relaxing in the shade. The birdlife is good and its all good. Going for a guided at 15H30. Looking forward to it. Well, I did the walk which went along the swamps and springs, we saw some birds and a crocodile; also came across an elephant carcass which was apparently killed by another elephant. Quite vrot after 5 motnhs. Had 2 guies who couldn’t really speak English that well so could not inteprert anything for me. I felt very tired all through the walk, which was odd and I began wondering if I was getting ill. After the walk I tried relaxing but I was just so tired. Anyway, tonight we got the fire going, made me some noodles with tuna. Very good. There was a head of an old Buffalo bull which I saw yesterday already. Turns out it was a stark raving mad bull that decided to go on the offensive. Locals say it was the devil himself. It was apparently shot whilst on the charge. Old dagga boy. Shame. His head lay not too far from the Landy. I had a warm shower which was great, landed up in bed by 21H15. I slept very well. Had many dreams but awoke twice during the night, once thinking I was at home in my bed and once thinking I was sleeping in a bed the Kruger Park hut! Strange, very strange. I guess I really enjoy sleeping in the rooftop tent.” Day 47: 21 August 2005 - Umani Springs Camp to Mt Kenya Youth Hostel & camp site, Kenya “I tried to get going early but again I found that it just too cosy in the tent! Eventually I made a move, folded up the tent, had dome breakfast and headed out. My plan was to get to Nairobi, which once I got to the highway, was 230km north on what seemed like an endless road from hell. But the bad stuff only lasted for another 30km or so and then it was brilliant tar and then the last 50km was the crappy stuff again. My first stop was Nandos!! Nice and different from my favourite in SA , Hans Strijdom (Malibongwe)!! After that I made some enquiries about refiling the gas tanks with no luck. I found CMC Motors, aka Land Rover Kenya, but as expected, they were closed. I found an old Landy used as a tow truck parked on a kerb. An old man was asleep inside it and I asked him if he knew of any Land Rover mechanics. He know of one but it would take about 10 minutes to get there. So he jumped in front with me and

off we went through all the back roads in Nairobi town. Fortunately, it was Sunday and not so busy. We got to the place and after waiting about 15 minutes, the guy was not there. So we agreed to come back tomorrow. I dropped the tow truck guy off then tried to exchange money which didn’t work because I couldn’t decide what I wanted to do. So I decided to leave Nairobi and head for Mt Kenya National park as it turned out. In discussions with myself, I didn’t think that I actually wanted to head out to Nakuru, which is en route to the Uganda border. Anyway, I drove and drove and got lost and asked many people for help. Each time I stopped crowds would gather. The fact that I was not a ‘Mlungu’ mesmerised them, and that I was alone! This happened almost everywhere. But all good and eventually I landed up at Mt Kenya Youth Hostel and campsite, after driving through some treacherous mud. The Landy nearly went careering into a fence as the wheels lost traction but managed to get it back and under control! It’s been a hectic day. Think I saw thousands of people today. So many people. Everywhere. My laptop died has given up on me. I’m quite annoyed about this as it is not even 2 months old. Potentially, I have lost all my photos, will have to downsize any future pictures on the digital cameras (until the memory sticks are full). The Pentax (film camera) got damaged whilst trying to clean it, so I am in trouble. I have asked myself if it is even worth it to carry on with this trip if I lost all the pictures and cannot take any pictures in the future. All my things seem to break, one at a time. I think the car might be next. I constantly argue with myself. The cock-up with the laptop has aggravated things for me. I need a miracle, stroke of luck for the laptop to start working. The next 43 days might takes its toll on me. I currently only have KSH800, no coke, my meat supply has nearly run out, food running low, drinking water is nearly finished and the car, I feel, will jump on this band wagon too!”

Day 48: 22 August 2005 - Mt Kenya Youth Hostel & camp site to Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya “Woke up feeling a bit better, only a bit. A brief plan in my head about what I will be doing followed. I feel pretty bad about stuff. But for me, I don’t know. In the days before laptops and digital crap, things were how they maybe should be….reliable and trustworthy. David Livingstone probably turns in his grave every time some new technology makes travel easier!! I believe and feel that I may still be able to repair the laptop once back in SA and hopefully retrieve the photos. So with that, I got going and slowly slowly started feeling better, packed up the Landy and took out the cricket bat and started playing cricket with some of the guys and girls there, some who just returned from climbing Mt Kenya. Good fun! The gardens were beautiful and green and off course I had thoughts about staying another night, especially with the place being so nice and the facilities so good….in the end, I shaved, cleaned up a bit and headed for Lake Nakuru National Park. I chose an off-the-beaten-track-type-of-road which, initially was a good thing but deteriorated rapidly, especially toward the end. Once I was back on tar, it rained heavily in the town of Nyaharuru, the first real rain I’ve seen. A heavy downpour. I then made it into the town of Nakuru, the 4th busiest (biggest) town in Kenya. The National Park is 7km out of the town, so made it easy enough into the Park. Once I entered, the rain came pouring down. As I drove through the Park in the late evening, it was not long before a school bus full of kids told me about a Leopard in a Fever tree!! My 4th leopard!! The tree was far but in typical Kruger style, waited it out and soon enough the Leopard jumped down the tree and that was that. I went after it but it kept moving. It was dark now so I hurried along to set up camp right next to the Makalia Falls…noisy but nice.

I was startled when I heard something snort about 50m in front of me…I ran into the Landy thinking it was a lion! It was huge Buffalo bull staring me down!! That night, I completely froze in the tent.”

Day 49: 23 August 2005 - Lake Nakuru National Park to Kembu Campsite, Kenya “I got going early this morning to try and get the most of my time in Lake Nakuru. I am enjoying this Park very much as there are no trees being destroyed by elephant – the park has no elephants. Everything was beautiful and green and the Fever Trees made huge impressive stands that make Pafuri look like nothing. I drove around a koppie watching some giraffe on the open plains. Passed a safari vehicle as I joined the main road and took a u-turn to go in the right direction. There was a Secretary Bird in a tree nesting and as I sat and watched it with the koppie in front of me, I saw the safari vehicle up close on the koppie. With a quick scan of the binocs, I spotted a male lion laying on the koppie and off course I dashed off. It turned out to be the most majestic male lion I’ve ever seen and what a pleasure to photograph and having set eyes on. Took my breath away. With that, I headed for the lake area to watch thousands of Flamingos…quite spectacular. A Black backed Jackal caught a Flamingo right in front of me! I then left the park at about 14H30 and headed for the forex bureau, exchanged some money, then bought some supplies and headed out but not before incident. While I was parked in the town of Nakuru, I left the Landy parked whilst I made some enquiries about refilling those (damn) gas cylinders. When I returned to the Landy there were 2 gentleman leaning against the front of the car. I didn’t find it too disconcerting but when I got to Kembu campsite, I noticed that one of my spare shocks, which I kept in the winch bracket, was missing – I was robbed!! The sons-of-em-bitches stole my stuff!! I wasn’t too mad and felt fluctuating waves of annoyance. Bastards! I needed to be more sensible about where I parked. I let my guard down. Being alone, not good. Anyway, at the campsite, which was quite nice with a beautiful green lawns and hot showers, I was wedged nicely between 2 toilets!! What a view (and a stench!). Later in the evening, the rain came down, so I got to use my awning for the first time. Good investment. That night, I went and had a coke and some coffee in the pub and met 2 x British girls from an overland group (they were all over the place as usual). We had a discussion about our experiences. I left at 22H12 and for the first time, I slept in the back of the Landy. It was fun although I landed up in the hole most of the night! I’m keen to sleep in the car again. Let’s see how what happens.”

Day 50: 24 August 2005 - Kembu Campsite to Kisumu Beach resort, Kenya “I packed up the Landy slowly, paid my bill and headed out towards Uganda. The roads were rubbish as usual and I got to Kisumu at about 13H00. It was off to the local supermarket, which was actually in a shopping mall, the first one I’ve seen since leaving Joburg. It was hot and stuffy in there and the supermarket’s meat freezers were out of order , so they wouldn’t allow me to go to their freezers to choose my own meat - I had to buy what they said! Crap! There was a food court above, I ordered a veg burger with chips and went and ate it in the car. In the parking there was a ZA Landy! Eventually the guy came and his name was Peter Bickford and his wife Beverley, wildlife photographers who have been on the road for 8 months working on a book!! WOW!

They had just returned from Rwanda and gave me some good tips. [A year later I met Peter and Beverly in the Kruger on a rhino capture!!] After that, I tried again to get those damn cylinders refilled but no luck. It was then off to get the Landy fixed at a place called ‘Bhagwanjee’. I had the air filter and oil changed but have to return tomorrow to have the clutch slave cylinder replaced. I did bring my own spares but this wouldn’t have worked with many more miles to come. I left to go to Kisumu Beach Resort, the worst piece-of-shit crappy campsite ever. The dogs kept me up all night, as well as Giant Eagle owls. But during the night, I think I was in grave danger as some perps tried to get to me. The way the dogs barked I knew and could sense there was some one there. Alone in the campsite, I had little chance of closing the tent in time to make a getaway or defending myself. Those dogs saved me. And I thanked for Lord for that. I never slept again. I awoke with heavy eyelids and left quickly but not before I gave some guy there the 3rd degree”.

Day 51: 25 August 2005 - Kisumu Beach resort, Kenya to Nile River Explorers Camp, Uganda “I am sitting here at “Bhagwanjee’ and as it’s turned out, it is not the Landy’s slave cylinder but rather the clutch master cylinder that is leaking and needs to be replaced! I am concerned about the cost but will now just pay whatever it costs – I am keen to move on. My plan is still to be in Jinja, Uganda by today, so hopefully, if all goes well with the Landy we will speak later. (11H24) OK, the whole episode cost me quite a packet but happy that it is now fixed, I’m headed for Uganda…yeah!! I got to the border under the pretence that it was going to be hectic and chaotic. Not really. I had to ‘employ’ the services of a ‘helper’ but in all fairness, I could have got through this lot myself. There were a couple of unnecessary steps I thought but in the end, it took nearly 2 hours to sort out. Backwards, forwards…aahh Once in Uganda, my destination was Nile River Explorers camp., with semi-serious thoughts of doing the white water rafting on the White Nile River. I got to the camp only to find out that the rafting was $95 and $65 as I thought. Shocked, I left the camp and walked into the adjacent camp only to find that ‘everyone’ charges $95. So after some deliberation, I decided to go with Nile River Explorers. That night, I slept with butterflies in my tummy, the rafting…Grade 5…WOW! I was actually becoming a rafting freak!!” Day 52: 26 August 2005 - Nile River Explorers Camp, Uganda “The plan was to meet at 08H30 and after payment and a quick chat with the manager (a South African guys from Newcastle!), I was off to the backpackers lodge for breakfast and a briefing. There was a British guy in my group who spoke a lot and who I met at the Nile Camp. He seemed very interested in my travels. After breakfast, it was in the truck and down to the river. There were 2 other South Africans in the group, also on an overland trip but actually ‘leaving’ South Africa in search of greener pastures. At the river’s edge, our Guide Peter, gave us a quick rundown of the technical staff, which I thought was excellent. Also did some ‘rehearsals’ in the river….The Mighty Nile River! WOW! Just so much more water than the Mighty Zambezi. Adrenalin was pumping! Then it was off…into the rapids. The boat flipped 3 times in all and on many an occasion I thought ‘this is the end’! Terrifying and exciting…huge waves that climbed above our heads, everyone desperately trying to hold on!!!

I enjoyed it tremendously. It was an exciting fun-filled day. Everyone had great time and in the end, I feel money well-spent. That night, it rained like mad. My first night in the rooftop where it rained so much. I slept at 19H30!! By 2AM I was up…too much sleep!! Day 53: 27 August 2005 - Nile River Explorers Camp to Mabira Forest Reserve, Uganda “The Nile Camp was soggy and wet. All my stuff seemed damp and the rooftop tent was soaking. Decided to head out to Mabira Forest Reserve, only 45 away from Jinja. Uganda seems to get a lot of rain – everywhere I looked, it was muddy and wet but green green green. Feels like a paradise here. My bird list is climbing and it’s just beautiful here. I drove slowly and after leaving the Nile Camp, I was stopped just outside the gate by a safari guide who told that the road to Jinja may be impassable and that I needed to take an alternate route. All over cars slid and lay stuck in the mud or up against embankments. The alternate route through the back streets proved interesting because the radio was blasting with U2 and the locals looked on disapprovingly….funny! Everywhere I stopped the crowds would gather...”Mzungu”!! I felt so comfortable. Most people spoke good English and the feeling I get is that Uganda is very progressive. So different from Kenya and Tanzania. Even the Swahili was a bit different. But I learnt al long time ago not to push the Swahili too much! Before you know it, carry on in Swahili at which point I’m a lost dog! So much fun!! Made it to Mabira Forest Reserve early and decided to stay just one night. The camping site’s okay, not much in the way of facilities. The officials there told me about a waterfall in the reserve where just yesterday an Aussie tourist fell over and down the falls to his death. There was a feeling of sadness amongst everyone. Young kid…20 something. I did a short walk in the forest which was nice. Felt intimidating at times as this was a real jungle …dense…compared to the dust of the Serengeti and Masai Mara and Amboseli. The smell of the forest…nothing beats it. I battled somewhat to start a fire…Blitz has spoilt me rotten! Everything’s damp. But I’m sitting at my fire now and its nice here, with the sounds of the forest keeping me company…”

Day 54: 28 August 2005 - Mabira Forest Reserve Backpackers, Kampala, Uganda “Today, after a good night’s sleep in the dark Mabira Forest, I awoke at 8am and decided to do a short walk. The forest seemed eerie this this morning. The night was filled with sounds of what I think was a Tree Hyrax, sharp piercing high pitched calls. The forest was pitch black!! Quite amazing. Anyway the walk was okay, spotting and identifying the first birds was proving challenging. After the walk I hung up the laundry in the hot sunny parts of the campsite, had a quick bite to eat then just lazed around. I tried sleeping in the tent but it was too hot. I did some filing of paperwork that’s been building up. Just had another quick bite to eat and have decided to move on close to Kampala. It is now 14H00 and I feel lazy and relaxed and don’t really want to pack up….let’s see what happens….☺ So I packed it up nice and slowly and headed for Kampala Backpackers, some 56km away. Got to the city and about 10km before, the roads were busy. In central Kampala, lots of shops, Nandos, Steers... tried to find the backpackers but battled. Stopped to ask a few people but most sent me in the wrong

direction! Ugandans did not seem like friendly or trustworthy people! Anyway, I was eventually helped by someone and I was only 200m away!! At the backpackers, I paid for camping and made enquiries about Gorilla Trekking. They have an offer going into the Congo at a cost of $350 pp. This does not suite my plans as I need to organise my own transport to the border and pay for a visa to re-enter Uganda. Not ideal. My first option is to organise permits for Rwanda failing which I will try to organise permits for Bwindi National Park here in Kampala at the Uganda Wildlife Authority offices. My last option is the Congo option.”

Day 55: 29 August 2005 - Backpackers, Kampala, Uganda “I have just paid for my Gorilla Trek in Bwindi National Park Uganda!. It will be with the habituated Nkuringo Group. I am so excited and wish that I see the gorillas. I was lucky because the permits have gone up from $275 to $360…I was not prepared for this. After some desperate measures (which included but not restricted to begging!), the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) reservations, the Uganda Parks headquarters, where I am now, made a plan and managed to find 2 x cancellations for the 6th September at $275!!! They tried selling it to me at the new price but after some clever negotiations got them at the old price. I am very lucky here!! And very excited that I saved the money. The thought of seeing Gorillas in the wild. So the plan is: -

Tracking starts at 08H00. Be there at 07H45. Be at Nkuringo by 05/09/2005 Meet at Nkuringo trekking point

The bad news is that I may not be able to afford some of the Parks as the vehicle entry fees are $40 pd, entry is $20pppd and camping UGS10 000pp…hellish expensive. But still, I can plan to go to some of the ‘cheaper’ Parks where I don’t need to pay for vehicle entry and instead do some of the activities, like chimpanzee tracking, which is also rather expensive. In the end, I’ll see how it all goes. Not sure where I will go and what I will do next, but Nandos is next!! After leaving UWA, I counted my cash and I think I have enough to do some activities and make it back home. Wouldn’t mind being cash stranded out here! After Nandos (and the long walk back to the Landy), I decided to visit the Uganda Museum then head back to the Backpackers for another night. The Uganda Museum was okay. I was only slightly disappointed that there was no documentary on the last 50 years of Uganda’s history. Be there as it may, I learnt a lot about the place. Some of the masks were freaky. In a nutshell, the whole thing was eerie!! With that, I was treated to some local music in the museum, where I was cornered into buying a CD of the same music. I felt pressured but was reasonably ok with buying it. It was back to the Backpackers. Once there I checked emails again and then I planned the days running up to the gorilla trek. I’m getting quite good at the planning side of things. Travelling alone has its challenges. But in all aspects, I’ve improved and I am managing on my own. Survival mode I guess. And I loved “walking for 20 minutes on Kampala Road”!!!!”

Day 56: 30 August 2005 - Backpackers, Kampala to Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda “I left the backpackers for the last time and my destination was north to Murchison Falls National Park and what would be my most northern part of my journey. Once I turn the Landy south, it’s in the direction home…which I miss. I miss my family. Anyway, the traffic out of Kampala was bad, which seems usual, on pothole infested, constructionfilled roads. I feel like a local here and have learnt from driving in Nairobi already…if you can’t beat em join em! Hectic. But I was patient and although I saw no signage, I followed the GPS in a northerly direction and soon enough was on my way Masindi through stunning and gorgeous green country. Got to Murchison Falls NP entrance at about 13H00 and quizzed the entry guy but had to get to ‘Paraa’, the HQ of the Park, for some answers. I drove through some amazing bush and eventually made it to Paraa. I arranged to book a boat trip but since I was staying 2 nights, not sure when I will do it. There were reports of a Shoebill on the river for the past month. This was going to be a lifer of note! So I headed back to the Top of the Falls campsite, some 35km from Paraa. Tomorrow, I have to travel back to Paraaa, cross the Victoria Nile on the earliest ferry – all the wildlife is meant to be on the other side of the river. There is also a bushcamp on the other side which is apparently wild but the Park guys do not seem to keen on me staying there being alone. It’s also bloomin expensive. Back here at Top of the Falls campsite, it’s nice. The campsite is on the banks of the Victoria Nile River and upon arriving, I was taken on a guided walk to the Murchison Falls by the guy here….Amazing and mind blowing power, a 45m drop into a gorge…pretty impressive. The showers are the ‘hoist-the-bucket’ type and I enjoyed. I’m in the rooftop tent now, my favourite hangout! The river flows strongly, I’m just chilling out….”

Day 57: 31 August 2005 - Murchison Falls National Park, Top of the Falls Campsite, Uganda “I got to the ferry early. I was first in the queue but the pro at the gate wouldn’t let me through. In the meanwhile, everyone else was being let through and eventually after some convincing she let me through. Down at the ferry, there was a small office where I could pay anyway. So she wasted my time! I was lucky to get on the ferry from being the first vehicle in the queue I was the last on the ferry. Once on the ferry it was exciting. It took about 5 minutes to get across and once I was there on the other side, I was in Big 5 territory. It felt and looked wild. I did not see any cats today but the birding was excellent and I spent the whole day here. It was strange because I did see any other vehicles from about 11 o clock onward. I figured that most people don’t drive around all day like I do, and they probably see more in the way of cats and stuff, but I enjoyed myself. I really had the whole place to myself. I also reached the northern most point of my trip and took a moment to celebrate. From here on, I will point the Landy south and head toward home. Off course there is the small matter of gorilla trekking at Bwindi which is en route and down south Uganda. I crossed back at about 6pm, in the nick of time and arranged to do the boat trip and 14H00 tomorrow. I then contemplated camping at Red Chilli Campsite but found the place crappy so headed back for Top of the Falls campsite. Had a braai tonight, my second last braai pack. Saving my last braai pack some place special…

My plan for tomorrow is to just take it easy until about 12H30 when I head back to Paraa HQ for the boat trip and hopefully my first visual on a Shoebill. I am knackered!!” Day 58: 01 September 2005 Murchison Falls National Park to Nile Safari Lodge campsite, Uganda “Got up slowly and lazily. It has rained during the night and somehow I expected it to be soggy and wet, but it wasn’t. It hadn’t rained that hard but I guess it always rains harder under the trees! Today I washed clothes and cleaned up the Landy, a little, and it was pretty hot in the sun, so I headed for those lovely bucket showers! What a pleasure! Shower with the best view. I checked the GPS today…7 500km is the distance home. Seems daunting. So I headed back to Paraa camp and got on the boat. This was so much fun and I even saw some new birds, beautiful Bee eaters. The boat goes pretty close to hippo and crocodile and ultimately winds its way to the Murchison Fall, this is very beautiful. It then heads back to the ferry point, back where we started. The number of crocodiles is staggering. Some reptilian monsters like I’ve never seen before. Sometimes they would swim in front of the boat and would follow the massive Nile Perch. Its mind boggling. Saw some Fish eagles as well bathing on the bank close to the crocs. That sinking feeling of what would happen if this boat sank…how fast could I swim to the shore away from the croc infested waters! We all looked for the Shoebill Stork and the skipper of the boat swore and cursed that it has been at that spot for the last month, and even saw it yesterday! A bit disappointing, but I guess I’ll just have to look out for it some more. I left the Park from what seems like a ‘side’ entrance and I find myself at Nile Safari Lodge at their camp site on the banks of the Nile. The lodge itself seems pretty fancy. I was promised water and someone that would make me a fire. Still waiting. I guess it was just ‘sales talk’. I am here at the campsite, it’s actually quite nice here. There are some Small Spotted Genets running around, baboons in the trees and hippos down in the river. Just had supper and I’m about to drink tea. Fortunately, I have my own water and shower, so I guess it’s another shower under the starts. I don’t mind!!

Day 59: 02 September 2005 Nile Safari Lodge to Sebotoli Campsite, Kibali National Park, Uganda “All through the night, the baboons were going, making a racket. This morning I was awakened by them. Knew they were near the car and not too long and one was on the car. I made a move to see what was going on. As I lifted my head, there was about 6 of them on the car and one them had my shoe! So I had to make a quick move to retrieve it. I sprang out chasing after them, leaving the Landy stranded. No ways I could keep up running kaalvoet on those rocks and thorns! I came back to the car and put my plakkies on and resumed the search. Fortunately I found the missing shoe not too far away. What a relief. Buggers! It was too bright and I decided to do some birding which was nice. Had a quick bite to eat, packed up the tent then decided to check out a noise in the back of the Landy. I first decided to use the high lift jack but this did not work too well as the ladder going up to the roof rack at the back jammed up against the high lift jack. I then used the bottle jack and after a few

attempts, jacked the car up. It sounded and looked like the right back dust cover to the brake disc was cracked. I removed the back wheel and had a closer look and confirmed that it was cracked. There was nothing I could do so put it back and will try and source a new or used part in the not too distant future. So all this repairs took up time and I eventually left the Nile Safari Camp at about 10H40. The road took me through many villages and it was very interesting – all the smiles and astonishing looks and stares…somehow for the locals I had to be white!! Everywhere I stopped and interacted with locals, people were amazing...the kids they would often surround me. Some people said they knew I was coming and heard of the ‘Mzungu’ from the south! Bizarre. Anyway, I drove for the rest of the day through these areas and off course, my direction was generally south. Every kilometre I drive took me closer to home. Sometimes for hours I drove in low range as the roads were rough and muddy, rocky and steep hills at times. The Landy did well. Many times I stopped to admire the beauty of the jungles and tea plantations. It really was beautiful and captured the soul. I made it to the tarmac near Kwenjojo, some 25km from my present location, Sebotoli Campsite in Kibali National Park. I am staying in one of their cottages as it proved cheaper than camping. I had a ‘manual’ shower and have a big bed, my first since the Springlands Hotel, after Kilimanjaro. The people here are so friendly and they cooked me a nice meal. The lady here, Nora, brilliant having a chat with her. In the gardens which were green and divine, I saw a Blue Spotted Dove, another lifer. Crippling views! Tomorrow I want to head out to Queen Elizabeth National park and it sounds like a drive on the usual crappy roads!”

Day 60: 03 September 2005 Sebotoli Campsite, Kibali National Park to Queen Elizabeth National Park (Mweya campsite #2), Uganda “I slept beautifully in that bed! It made me miss home. I lay in bed thinking about my bed at home. I wondered how my family was doing, dad, mum, my sisters, brother..here I was many miles from home. Got up and packed up my stuff but not really sure what my plans were. Wanted to stay another night, it was so nice here – the hospitality was brilliant and off course, I ‘ordered breakfast’, some omelette and roti-like pastry cut into blocks, which was excellent. The birdlife outside was excellent and I picked up a couple of new birds. After some breakfast and some deliberation with myself, I decided to get to Queen Elizabeth National Park. So I said my goodbyes to Nora and gang at Sebotoli and headed for Fort Portal, some 10km away. Once in Fort Portal, I filled up diesel at the Shell for UGS1860/L, as I got around the corner, Caltex was UG1850/L. Damn! Need to watch every penny here. Anyway, bought some supplies at Andrew & Brothers supermarket, a very well stocked up place. Then I popped into ‘Digital World’ to check emails and download some pictures onto a CD as the darn laptop is still buggered. With that I left for Queen Elizabeth NP, about 100km further south. I saw an ‘Equator’ sign and took some pics and then saw “Equator Gate” 500m to the right, which I first missed. This was an entry Gate into QENP but it also passes ‘Crater Explosion’, a beautiful crater-

filed drive up and down some hills, offering breath-taking views. Truly beautiful all these craters. Low range the order of the day once again. The road then winded its way back to Mweya Gate, where I paid my entry, then it was off to Mweya Camp to organise camping. They offered me 3 options, one being in the main camp and the others in the bush, the latter called Camp 1 and 2. I drove to Camp 1, had a look and popped across to Camp 2, also nice. Decided to camp and Camp 1, more bush atmosphere, I thought. Set up camp and had a chicken fillet braai, which was delicious. Also had a visitor, Hyena, which seemed like a problem animal…stalking me as the sun set it seemed. I undressed to shower (again!) under the starlit sky but when I did this the Hyena became bold and dangerous and made an advance toward me as my back was turned towards it. I wasn’t expecting this as he stopped about 3m from me when I grabbed the pot in defence! I showered quickly and sensed that if I turned my back for too long, it might grab a chunk out my ass!! After the shower, I hurried into the rooftop tent and from up there shone the spotlight and there he was, sure-as –hell, snooping around the fire. He then came toward the front of the Landy and tried climbing up the rooftop tent stairs! Hectic. Later that morning, a lion was roaring not too far away and I shone the spotlight again, this time picking up a fat hippo. But no Hyena. I slept very little as I was hoping to catch a glimpse of the lion. They were very close and being alone, I had a plan to make it for the Landy. Before I knew it, it was time to get up. What a night!” Day 61: 04 September 2005 Mweya Camp, to Ishaha Camp (camp #1), Queen Elizabeth National Park , Uganda “I packed up the Landy quickly, took some sunrise pics and headed for Ishasha, the southernmost most point of Queen Elizabeth NP. The drive was ok, with parts of the road going outside the Park and coming back through an atrocious gravel road. This road is also being used by the locals since this forms part of the Conservation Area. Made it to Ishasha Gate and enquired about campsites. 2 x options, camp 1 and camp 2. Again, I checked out both and chose camp 1, better shade, higher up from the river and as usual no facilities, no water no electricity. Had some sardines and tomato sauce for lunch and for the first time on this trip I opened the stretcher bed. My eyelids were heavy and I needed to get a small snooze, even if it was for half an hour. But it was not to be as the Tsetse (@#$%) flies wouldn’t leave me. I tried to sleep in the back of the Landy, but they were there too…sons-of-em-bitches! At around 14H30, I decided to go for a drive on the North Circuit’. Even after asking the attendant at the gate, I landed up on a very rough ‘River Track’ that has not been used in a while. My mission was Lake Edward, where the guy at the gate told me about a Shoebill there. I bashed the Landy through some serious bush and mud and eventually, the road vanished. When I checked the GPS it showed that I was in the DRC! I drove on a little and this was true jungle and I really could see no track anymore. Suddenly, the Landy fell into a hole and for a moment was about to capsize but fell back into the hole! The angle was impossible and without hesitation I quickly engaged the diff lock and got out! Shit! Thoughts of landmines and bandits started filling my head, and dying a lonely death out here! I had to turn back and did. Followed the GPS track and made my way back. The ‘road’ was pathetic. Once back, I found the ‘North Circuit’ road that I was meant to be on…I felt silly about not trusting my

instincts. So I went up the ‘North Circuit’ and soon found a sign saying “Lake Edward 4WD Only”! Aha…my road! So I took this ‘road’ and sure-as –hell it faded into nothing. Again I had to take a U-turn. I was not going to find this Lake without help. I thought about using a Guide to help me, but in the end, I could not decide. I arrived back at camp at 18H30, went back to camp 2 to collect some firewood and returned again to camp 1. My fire was excellent and some guy and his kids brought me more firewood and had a brief chat with him. ‘River Track’ is a no go!! Little did he know how much I enjoyed that little adventure! As I was again alone in the camp site, the Park sent two soldiers to camp with me. They stayed under the thatch lapa there nearby and wielded AK47’s. When I spoke to them, they said that it’s not safe alone and they were there to protect me. Nice guys. Had supper and the skies started lighting up with huge bolts of lightning. Had another quick shower under the thunder and made it for the rooftop tent as it started pouring. It’s cosy in the tent with the sound of rainfall falling on the broad leaved trees……goodnight!” Day 62: 05 September 2005 Ishaha Camp (Queen Elizabeth NP) to Nkuringo Campsite (Outside Bwindi National park), Uganda “I awoke to the sounds of lions roaring nearby. It had rained plenty last night, so everything was flipping wet. Packed up everything and decided to go lion hunting. Decided that maybe I should get a Guide so at the main gate, I met Godfrey. He told me that 8 x lions were about 30m from where I was parked! So Godfrey jumped in beside me and directed me first to the Northern Circuit. No lions there, even after going off-road. It was then off to the Southern Circuits and we first picked up lion spoor. Then Godfrey picked up a Lioness walking about 100m in front of us with a very full belly. It stopped to drink water in a nearby puddle then headed for a tree. Godfrey claims that the entire pride ‘hangs out’ in these trees…amazing! She walked up to the tree, looked up and almost as graceful as a Leopard, hauled herself up into the tree and settled up in the higher branches, her belly hanging over. Finally I saw a tree climbing lion. Godfrey suspected a kill nearby. But we bushwhacked for quite a while and we had no more luck. The Landy was working hard in the mud and stuff. We headed back to where we saw the lioness. This time the entire pride was up in the tree. Remarkable! I dropped Godfrey off at the Ishasha gate and took a quick team photo and exchanged details and then it was off to Bwindi, some 120km to the south. But the roads were bad and mostly up and down some steep mountain roads. I drove in low range almost all day. Mud, rocks, steep cliffs, deep gullys, water logged roads… When I reached the campsite, I was a bit disappointed by what I found but didn’t say anything. I was guided to Nkuringo (Bwindi NP) office and had a chat with the UWA staff about the gorilla trek for tomorrow. It sounds hectic but I’m up for the challenge. Back at the campsite, I made enquiries about supper and to my shock, was told that they charge USH20 000 pp…bluddy outrageous!!I then gave the guy the 3rd degree about his crappy campsite…I was not amused. But tomorrow is a big day, gorilla trekking…I was anxious about the difficulty factor but I hope that I see the gorillas. I’m sleeping in the back of Landy tonight…it’s raining outside.” Day 63: 06 September 2005 Nkuringo Campsite (Outside Bwindi National park), Uganda “After a hellish rainy night, I was up early to try and get organised for the gorilla trek (and to get out of this place!). By 07H00 I was ready and I slipped out of the “campsite” by 07H25 to meet at the Nkuringo office by 07H30. The group was full (8) and after introductions, there was a briefing by the

Guide, Gerhard. He made this activity seem very ominous. Yet again, I didn’t know what I was getting myself into but that’s always “half the fun”!! I was mentally up for the challenge and really looking forward to what I think is the best experience in Africa. So we started with a 45 minute descent to the base of Nkuringo, which means ‘Round shaped Hill’ and is apparently the only round shaped hill in the entire Bwindi Mountain range. Once at the bottom it was up, up and up. The forest was thick and very steep, slippery, muddy but it always felt good getting to the top of each hill, the first being the worst. After 3 hours of walking, the trackers had located the gorillas. Up to this point I began losing faith but all hope was not lost. It would take another hour to find the trackers. At 12H45 I saw my first Mountain Gorilla. They were all up in the tall trees and I thought that they weren’t going to come down. But they did. Nkuringo, the old male Silverback, walked right past us. Other Black backed gorillas also came down, some with babies. The viewing was in the sticks, real bush-bashing but we got pretty close to them. It really was awesome. A real amazing experience, they were very relaxed and had a somewhat calming effect on a person, especially after we left. We were only allowed 1 hour viewing time, of which a fair amount of time was spent trying to get to them. Once we left, we headed back to where the rest of the group remained and had some lunch and reminisced on my latest experience. I felt glad and satisfied. I might want to do this again and maybe at Buhoma…we’ll see. It was then down down down the same way we came up. Slippery at times but mostly exhausting. Once we got to the base of Nkuringo, it was just the final trek up that was left. Very steep and it really sapped my energy. Had a good conversation with one of the trackers on our way up about gorilla habituation and the Nkuringo story. The habituation started as far back at 1997. It took 3 years to habituate them to humans. In 2001 they contracted scabies and it took another year before things were back to normal and the Park officially took guided tours to observe gorillas in the wild in April 2004. As at today, they have only not seen the gorillas once, so the strike rate is 99%. Once I received my certificate of gorilla trekking, which I’m quite proud and happy about, I headed to Kisoro to find a campsite. When I got there, Rugahinga or whatever, they had no hot water so I decided to take up an offer from one of the members of my group who ran a hotel here, for a hot shower. So off I went but decided to return to the campsite after some dinner. The hotel, Travellers Rest House, has apparently been frequented by famous scientists and researchers, including the likes of Dianne Fossey. So I felt good about taking a warm shower here and having a bite to eat. Also socialised with some of the other group members from the trek and it turned out to be quite a pleasant evening. With that, I left and headed out to Rugahinga or whatever for a well-deserved rest. This business of having fun is taking its toll on my bod!! Tomorrow, Rwanda….” Day 64: 07 September 2005 Rugahinga or whatever campsite to Chingini Lodge, Rwanda “After the gorilla trekking, I was pretty buggered. So expectedly, I slept in. Slept deliciously and enjoyed the thought of it being a weekday and being able to sleep late in a rooftop tent (as opposed to being at work….and sleeping at my desk!) Decided to do things slowly. Started by hanging out wet dirty laundry. All my stuff was damp and smelly, and I’ve been complaining about the smell! The car smells funny too. After some investigation, it turns out that its actually my shoes!!

Anyway, I re-packed the Landy, had some lunch after a truly hot shower. At about 13H00 I packed it up and headed for Kisoro town to get some supplies, but I didn’t come right. Things were expensive and even my haggling failed. Logic failed me when I went and bought a T-shirt for SH10 000 when all the while I was fussing with paying SH1000 for a one litre bottle of water instead of SH700!! Crazy but true. Sometimes, the mind does boggle. Even diesel was more expensive. So after some up and down driving I headed for the border, Cyanika , with Rwanda. I was advised by a chap from the UN not to enter back into Tanzania at my preferred point of re-entry due to hostilities and that I was alone. So Rwanda it is. Was not part of my plan so unsure what to expect but the whole trip is like that! Unfortunately when I got to the border, an Overland truck was already there and at the immigration office, the clerk had a heap of passports. So I went to the customs to have the Carnet signed and stamped then returned to immigration. This was the Uganda side of things. Uganda…thank you. I’ll be back! At the Rwanda side, the overlanders queued up and I joined the queue. I organised the cards that needed to be filled in and soon enough I was at the counter. The clerk looked me with intent but slammed the rubber stamp twice in approval, no visas required, phew….what a relief! Next stop, customs, overlanders in queue, join the queue. At this stage I only needed the Carnet stamped and filled in, which the clerk did. But he also filled in a visa application and demanded $60 for a visa. Off course my blood pressure rocketed for a second. I then explained that SA Citizen’s don’t need a visa. But he insisted and then requested the immigration officer be re-consulted on the validity of my statement. So back I went to clerk 1. His reaction confirmed my suspicion that clerk 2 was a poepol! So, with the clerk 1 as my backup, I walked back to customs to clerk 2, but only as far as the window. Clerk 1 explained, clerk 2 argued – his argument was that he thought that I was with the overland truck group, to which clerk 1 quizzed how that could be the case if he had just stamped my Carnet! One overland truck, 2 x Carnets?? No way Jose! So l left the border but needed to exchange my left over Ugandan Shillings for Rwandan Francs. This took nearly 20 minutes as the guys on the streets were just not paying a decent rate. I haggled and haggled and eventually, another guy came and entered the picture and in a minute, I had a deal. The other guy was getting agro and hostile but he lost out. The rate I got was not great but not too pathetic. So I left and headed for Ruhengiri. I’m in Rwanda man! Once there I saw a turn off to Volcanoes National Park and after consulting with some army guys (whose English was crap), I headed out there. The road was rough and off course, driving on the right hand side of the road is a first for me. I felt stressed. I also feel Rwandans to be unfriendly and hostile and to be intimidating. Anyway, the Park HQ was closed so I am now at Chingini (sp?) Lodge about 500m from the Park. I’m in the ground tent tonight as I cannot bring the Landy in. It’s been raining so I am not sure how wet it’s going to get. The lodge itself is nice, the place is great. Perhaps one day, when I trek gorillas in Rwanda, I’ll stay here. My luck the generator is right outside the tent…DAMN!!” Day 65: 08 September 2005 Chingini Lodge, Rwanda to Burigi Game Reserve, Tanzania “I slept fairly well, with intermittent rain making everything damp. That damn generator eventually switched off sometime in the night. I awoke at 06H00 and by 07H00, left. The security guard at the

lodge washed the Landy…without my instruction off course. I didn’t mind ok maybe a little irritated but when I realized he must have started washing the car at 05H30 or earlier, it felt ok. Paid him $1…cheapskate!! Budget’s tight. But he seemed happy so I left. Driving to Rwanda is slightly hectic. It took me a while to adjust to driving on the right hand side and I always seemed to drift to the left. A couple of guys reminded me with a sharp hoot and frantic waving. The roads, however, were not too busy and the roads themselves in good condition. My destination was Musoma Falls Border Gate but first I had a slight issue with diesel. Not sure of where I’d find a filling station in Tanzania as the area seemed remote on the map. I decided to exchange some dollars into Rwandan Francs. Tried a few times to ask people for banks but it was very difficult to get through – most people spoke French only and very little English. It was extremely frustrating. Even when I got to Kigali, I got to a bank that did not want to change money. Frustrated again, I left and decided to take my chances in Tanzania. But when I drove a little further I eventually found Fina Bank where I changed $90 and filled diesel. This made me feel better and so I happily drove on, admiring the beauty of Rwanda, bought some bananas and got to the border. Exiting Rwanda was fairly ok except for some last-boy-scout trying to pull rank by insisting that I did not clear the vehicle. But after explaining it to him and showing the stamps on the Carnet, he let me go. But before the last-boy-scout incident, I walked across the bridge where the Musoma Fall plunges with fury. It was apparently at these falls where journalists during the 1994 Rwanda Genocide saw bodies falling down at a rate of one per minute. A very foreboding thought when I was standing at exactly that point. It is gruesome to even imagine what must’ve went on here. All the time, even while driving, I couldn’t help but think of what it must have been like… I was happy to leave Rwanda and relieved to be back in Tanzania. Think I will return but will make an effort to learn some French before I do that. Back at Tanzania customs, I had to buy a new visa at $50 …ouch! After some other feeble formalities, I was on my way. There was still the minor problem of where I was going to stay tonight, like most nights! The Bradt Travel Guide for once did not cover this this area of Tanzania well. Yesterday, I decided that by 15H30, I would start looking for accommodation, no matter how far I got. I only drove for about 50km when I spotted a board saying ‘Burigi Game Reserve’. I backed up and decided to try my luck. This place requires a permit to enter which I obviously did not have (or as I’ve learnt on this trip, “nothing is obvious”!). The gate was 1.5km away and once there, an old man and younger one ran to greet me. I explained that I just needed a place to sleep and if they would help. They agreed to let me camp just outside the boom gate but were very circumspect and curious. There was a lady there as well, the younger man’s wife. So that’s where I am now. They have been through great lengths to help me. The younger guy even chopped down a massive tree for firewood! The old guy is a Muslim and he showed me some Zebra and Giraffe. There’s big 5 here he tells me. As I sit, my fire is going and I am having chicken fillet braai. Yum!”

Day 66: 09 September 2005 Burigi Game Reserve to J-Four Motel, Singida, Tanzania “Last night, I ended my journal entry off far too early. After the braai, I opened the roof top tent and within minutes of doing so, my hosts were there in a flash – they’ve never seen a rooftop tent. They climbed up the ladder to have a look and checked out the Landy, they were all genuinely amazed. It

was then when Thabiti, the old man, suggested that we go for a “10km” night drive. This got me excited and I shouted yes, ‘we will go’! This meant that I had to fold up the tent and clear out the back of the Landy, some work. My hosts brought me some food, some well-cooked rice and 2 x pieces of meat (which I tried eating but had to chuck it, sorry guys). I quickly pitched the ground tent and dumped all the extra stuff in it. At 21H00, I met at their place and only the 2 x men came with, Thabiti with his old .308 rifle. Well, the drive was long and we drove 80km! Got back at 01H00!! The old man tried really hard with the spotlight and seemed to know to know where to look. But we drove and drove and saw very little. Saw some Lesser Bushbabies…Thabiti was convinced that we would see Lions and Leopard. He dosed off constantly but not for long before another bump on that rubbish road awoke him, rifle and spotlight ready. About 1.5km from the entrance gate, there they were…2 x Leopards!1 x male and 1 x female. Unbelievable! Never thought we’d see Leopard. It made every step worth it. What an absolutely fabulous time I had. Thabiti smiled smugly…’told-you-so’! We followed them offroad into some hectic terrain as they were a mating pair. Eventually we tracked back on the GPS to the main road, all this at 01H00! This morning, I left after taking some photos and exchanged addresses and a cup of ‘Chai’. These folk really took care of me. I offered them TSH6000 which they took. I was going to miss the old man. He hugged me as turned to leave. I left in good spirits then headed out toward Dodoma. This morning I also decided that I will not go to Dares salaam via Katave, a Park I’ve been dying to go to along western Tanzania. This would have added at least 4 days or so and about 1000km to my travel plan, not that I had much of a plan. Katave…some other time. Anyway, the road to Singida, which is as far I got today, was firstly good tar then bad vrot gravel. Major road works all the way. Dusty. I exchanged money in Nzega, a town which I really liked. All day, as I drove, I had no idea where I was going to sleep. As I entered the town of Singida, I asked a police officer, who asked for the COMESA yellow card and vehicle registration papers. He directed me here, J-Four Motel. I’m in room. It’s not bad. Bed is a bit small. But I’m knackered. Lack of sleep!!”

Day 67: 10 September 2005 J-Four Motel, Singida to Silver Sands Hotel and Campsite, Dares salaam, Tanzania “I left J-4 Motel by 07H00 and by 07H30m I was on the wrong road! I asked some old man when I was still in Singida, where the road to Dodoma was. He sent me in a certain direction but only because he wanted a lift there! Bugger! Truth is that it was an alternative road to Dodoma. Someone else called it a short cut. But checking the map against the GPS told me that I was not on the main road but rather on some track. Even the map seemed to dwindle further south. So instead I chose to try and head back toward the main road. Now I was in the middle of the bush. Nowhere. I stopped and asked some construction workers where the tar road was. A whole convention surrounded me, as usual, everyone curious and adding their 5 cents worth. Some guy agreed to show me the way, again it think because he wanted a lift there somehow.

So my ‘guide’ hung onto the back of the Landy, on the ladder, while I closely watched the GPS. After about 10 minutes, he stopped a motorbike who was going to the main road, so I said goodbye to guide #1 and followed a scrambler who I couldn’t keep up with. I’m gonna buy me a bike!!Soon enough I was on the main road, after saying goodbye to guide #2. The road to Dodoma was…the usual bad gavel. I drove for hours and hours and the distance was covered slowly. The Landy working hard as usual. I managed to miss a turn fiddling with the radio so I had to bugger around for some more time. Eventually I crawled into Dodoma and for once it was not so busy a city. I bought phone cards and phoned home and spoke to mum and brother (Imraan). I missed them. It was then my mission to leave or Dares salaam, a mere 490km away, and the time was 15H00, so a bit of night driving was on the cards. A good tar road makes all the difference and whilst you find maniac drivers all over, there were not too many tonight. Some guys over-take head-on, even though they can see you approaching so you go off road for them…by 21H00, I was in Dares salaam and it was as busy as I expected. I did not expect to get ‘lost’ today but driving on these roads, tracks everywhere, no signage, poor GPS accuracy, dodgy directions, I had to laugh at myself!! I tried to get in at Jambo Inn, no private parking. Many con-artists hung around outside, so I decided to head to the north beach area, for Silver Sands Hotel. It was not too far away and I reached here at 22H00. I’m pitched near the beach in the campsite amongst these palm trees. Wind gusting. Very long day. Quickly had something to eat, shower and by 23H30 I was snoozing in the rooftop.”

Day 68: 11 September 2005 – Day 2 Silver Sands Hotel and Campsite, Dares salaam, Tanzania “Slept like a log and in the morning, felt worse than a zombie! Completely vegetated with heavy eyelids. Yesterday’s journey…nearly 1000km. Trip taking its toll on my fragile bod! Can’t believe how much of weight I have lost. Today I had to organise my Zanzibar visit. Having no idea what it entailed, I decided to ask some questions. Some guy, whose name is ‘Green’ and who works here at Silver Sands claims that he can organise a taxi to the ferry and organise the ferry to get to Zanzibar. Decided to think about it first. I was very uncertain about everything. But as I decided not to waste too much time making decisions, I asked ‘Green’ to organise me a taxi and ferry. Not too sure about accommodation in Zanzibar but decided to get there and organise it. But first I needed to exchange money. Decided to head out to the airport and exchange some of the traveller’s cheques for TZ Shillings. After having a discussion with fellow campers in the campsite, I folded up the tent and headed out. People were chilled out and relaxing at the beach here. The roads were busy but it was Sunday so I guess not too stressful. Lots of issan Patrols around and off course, old Landy’s. The airport was simple, nothing like Joburg. Found a bureau run by Indians who were first reluctant to change TC’s but eventually did. Little bit of gentle persuasion, well practiced over the last 2 months or so! Bought some curious and left. Destination: Nandos! When I got there, I was disappointed, yet another Nandos that has closed down. Instead, I bought 2 x pizzas, and gobbled them. Except for that the steak in the pizza…tough! With that I headed BACK to Silver Sands and organised my stuff for Zanzibar. The plan is to leave here tomorrow and 06H30. Hope all goes well…”

Day 69: 12 September 2005 – Silver Sands Hotel (Dares salaam) to Kitete Beach report, Zanzibar. “Took my time getting out of the tent but lucky I did when I did – Green, my helper, came to call me at 06H00 and asked if I was ready to leave as the taxi had arrived and was waiting. So quickly, I organised my stuff and parked the Landy in front. I was worried about the car’s safety and hope that it will be okay. In I got, into the taxi, a white corolla and off we went. There was a sense of urgency as the ferry leaves at 07H30. It was already 06H45 when I left. The traffic was slow but we didn’t stand for too long periods of time. Green kept glancing at his watch nervously, almost as if he were late for a job interview. But, we made it! He organised my ferry tickets at $70 return and soon I was heading out to the ferry. This started to feel like I was on holiday! Once on the ferry, I walked up to the sun-deck and there was no place to sit. I basically stood for 3 hours. Maybe I should’ve tried harder to find a seat. I will definitely do so on my return. Anyway, the views from the boat were good and as it approached Zanzibar, it was more or less what I expected – old, cramped up but busy and interesting. Got off the ferry and after not even a minute later, I was approached by ‘Ashraf’, a local Indian guy who was actually a taxi driver. He guided me to immigration, got my passport stamped and went back to the “tourist information desk”. Later, I figured that the guy behind the desk worked for the same crowd as did ‘Ashraf’, my Guide guy. But the desk dude gave me good info and I developed a quick idea of my options. I chose to do a ‘tour of Stone town’ and was allocated a driver, Juma, for $50. I feel it was heavy but ok for my first time here. So, I got into Juma’s van and my first stop was breakfast, at Mzuri Restaurant. Looks more like a kitchen than restaurant but the food was real good. Had beef curry and rice…real curry!! From there, I did a tour of the Sultan’s palace, old, run down and dilapidated but interesting story. One Sheikh is apparently still alive in London.. Then it was off to the East Coast to look for accommodation. My first stop was Ndama Village, very nice place, but at $40 pn, a bit steep. Decided to check Kitete, but not before chatting to Big Ocean Divers about dives and stuff. So at Kitete, I looked at the new Kitete and the old. Chose the latter at $30 pn. My first glance at the beach…stunning crystal blue waters with white sand palm-lined beaches..never set my eyes on anything so amazing… Immediately swam a bit, relaxed in the sun, started interacting with the locals, lots of tourists about, took a walk and organised me supper at a nearby restaurant. The food was good and by 20H30 I was clubbing with Italians who thought I was Italian too! This is going to be a jol”

Day 70: 13 September 2005 – Kitete Beach Bungalows, Zanzibar –Day 2

“I organised to dive at 08H00. So it was another early morning. Yesterday evening, before dinner, I got involved in a soccer match on the beach and although soccer is not my favourite sport, I enjoyed it even though I’m not any good. But during the night, I awoke and my foot was very painful. Thinking that it was a bad insect bite, I think it was running after that ball on the beach. My ankle was sore. This was at 00H00 in the morning! After that, I slept well. At 07H00 I went out for breakfast and by 08H00 I was in the boat, nice boat, not a rubber duck and quite a relaxing ride out. But poor me, the nausea and vomiting got me, as usual – 3 times under and about 5 or 6 times on surface. I did not feel too good after that. Got back at 10H00 and arranged a prawn lunch at 11H00! I first went back to my room. Had a wash and then headed back for my meal – very tasty prawns. It was here where I made a firm commitment to treat myself at least once a month back at home to a nice restaurant.

After that, I bought ice cream and relaxed under an umbrella while the Masai and cows paraded on the beach! Right now, I’m just relaxing…focus is on relaxing….falling asleep……….. It’s now 20H25, I had the best sleep probably in my life! Batteries are recharging beautifully and I feel like a new Duracell!! After getting up, I took a walk on the beach then managed to check emails after negotiating the rate with the guy from ‘Arabian Night’s’…nice place but at $90 pppn too expensive. Haven’t checked emails in a while so there was a few. After that I bought ice cream and relaxed on the beach. Some interesting characters here. At about 17H30, I went to “Paje by Night” for some genuine Italian pizza and had a nice chat with the owner, an Italian guy who packed up his job in Italy and came here, some 7 years ago…keeping it simple. Some beautiful fun loving people here. I went for a work on the beach under the moonlight with the wind blowing briskly. I went back to Kitete, made some coffee and just chatted to the other guys here about stuff on the veranda…nice. I was asked about Bafana Bafana… Tomorrow, I am just going to rest more and take it very easy and slow. Maybe find Freddie Mercury’s house…where he was born!”

Day 71: 14 September 2005 – Kitete Beach Bungalows, Zanzibar – Day 3 “Another lazy day, slept, swam and lay on the beach in the sun. Had a good lunch at the Kitete’s restaurant, came back, slept more…had supper…Paje By Night…this is the life! Too lazy now to continue….!”

Day 72: 15 September 2005 – Kitete Beach Bungalows, Zanzibar – Day 4

“Another slow day. Today it is much windier than any of the other days. I arranged a dive for 11 O clock, so by 08H00, I had breakfast, then went back to the room, relaxed. By 10H20, I headed for Big Ocean Divers, where I chatted with Chris and Angie there. A Japanese guy by the name of Orkada was also doing the dive. I took a motion sickness pill that worked well… During and after the dive, I had no nausea. So I guess I will always be taking these pills. The dive itself was nice, colourful and relaxing. My SAC rate was improved, I think, so this make me happy…more time down under. Some of the corals were damaged by fishing line and anchors from boats. Some of it looked terminal. After the dive, I headed back to Kitete but first stopped at Kitete restaurant to order some steak and chips…very good! Had a quick shower, went back for my steak then straight back to my room to snooze. I was so sleepy and lazy.. hell this is the life! Got up at about 16H30, had some coffee and just sat outside, drinking coffee and planning my life. I have come up with some plans for the future. Thought about having my own house…I will start house hunting on my return home. And I want a mountain bike and a motor bike! I will keep my scrap car (Old VW Chico). Off course the Landy stays. Yes, so that’s my plans! It is now 19H00, I’ve ordered supper for 19H30. Tomorrow I leave Zanzibar. Have arranged with the group shuttle for 11 o clock tomorrow. My ferry ride is at 16H00 so hopefully I will make it there on time. Chat later. Off to Paje by Night…VIP there now you see and my Italian is improving!”

Day 73: 16 September 2005 – Kitete Beach Bungalows, Zanzibar to Silver Sands Hotel, Dares salaam, Tanzania.

”Today I leave Kitete and head back to the mainland. Had breakfast at 08H00 and packed up my stuff, paid the bill, said my goodbyes and headed out on foot to Big Ocean Divers to see Chris and Angie. The promised to help me download my pics from the Sony Cybershot. Chris struggled to do this and promised to bring the CD to SA when they eventually get there. From there it was back to Kitete to catch the share bus, a ride from pure hell!! But enjoyable. I was dropped off just outside the harbour and decided to walk. I am now at Mercury’s Restaurant. It has a picture of Queen and Freddie Mercury all over, nice. I catch the ferry back at 15H30 and once in Dar, will try and get a ride back to Silver Sands. Hope this works out (and that I get a seat on the ferry!) 16H00 now. Oh I’m on the ferry back to Dar. I have economy class tickets but they allowed me to sit in the luxury class…watching old crappy Lionel Ritchie videos on TV! I’ve just been working out my budget and I’m looking ok for the final leg home via Mozambique. So far so good. I have no idea how I will get back to Silver Sands Dar once the ferry reaches Dar but I hope to get a taxi back. Let’s see what happens. 22H00. The rest of the boat trip was quite a disaster – I got severe sea sickness and spent almost all the time standing outside. It was awful terrible. I know for sure that I don’t enjoy being surrounded by sea- water. Hellish. So as we docked in at Dar, I was approached by many taxi drivers but eventually settled for someone at TSH8000. As I climbed in, Mr Green’s (my guy at Silver Sands) taxi driver appeared from nowhere. I pretended not to recognise as I could see shit coming! But in the end told him that I got a ride for TSH8000 – he was going to charge TSH15000. Sorry mate, I had no deal and nothing was agreed upfront. With that, I headed for Silver Sands. My driver claims not to speak English so he switched on his radio and turned it up loud while I wondered what revenge Mr Green had in store for me! Eventually we made it to Silver Sands, paid the taxi driver and extra TSH1000 even though he got lost. I was just too glad that the Landy was still there and in one piece. I went out, paid my bill and took the Landy to the campsite where there were 2 x overland trucks. They were braaing so I also decided to braai my last braai pack. After that, showered and slept.”

Day 74: 17 September 2005 – Silver Sands Hotel, Dares salaam to Kilwa Mosoko, Seaview Beach Resort, Tanzania.

“By 07H30 I got up, had a small bite to eat and decided to try and go to Shoprite. Also needed to fill diesel. Said my goodbyes to all the folks at Silver Sands (‘Goodbye Green”!). What a place! It took an hour to get to Shoprite…filled diesel and not long, I was in coconut country. It felt like I was driving in Zanzibar. My destination was Kilwa but first tried to get to Kilwa Kivinje. Was advised by the police there that it was unwise and unsafe to camp here and suggested that I go to Kilwa Masoko. Found some signage to Kilwa Seaview Resort. Not a bad place. The guy showed me around. Pulled up, popped open the rootop tent, did some laundry, had a good dinner, showered and I am now in the rooftop tent. I feel tired and buggered. Tomorrow will be another long slow day. The roads are very bad. The crowds gather each time the Landy stops. “Mzungu” they call me! Am trying to get to the border at Mtawara and cross the Rovuma River via the ferry into Mozambique. Looking forward to Moz.”

Day 75: 18 September 2005 –Kilwa Mosoko, Seaview Beach Resort to Mtwara Lodge, Bondeni, Tanzania.

“The night was interrupted by 3 agents – agents of blood. The mozzies where really after me so at about 4 in the morning, I got up to swipe mosquitoes. This obviously robbed me of some sleep even though it was quite stimulating nailing the bastards. When the alarm rang at 05H30, there was no way in hell I as getting up. Instead, I slept until about 07H00 and after packing up the tent, did a brief tour of the Seaview Bandas, I left. The time 08H30. My destination was Lindi, then Mtwara. The roads, as expected, were long dusty and slow. The Landy taking some hectic punishment again but it sailed on, low range on occasion. There seemed to be construction going on all along the route. But I did get some tarmac from Lindi to Mtwara. Once I got to Mtawara, I was again trying to find accommodation. After trying a hotel on the beach (which proved to be expensive) and a B & B (also expensive), I started thinking that maybe I should just head out to the border, at Rovuma, to catch the ferry across at Mwambo. Decided to ask the police for assistance, the officer suggested that I try staying overnight in Mtwara and leave for Moz tomorrow. He suggested Bondeni, so that’s how I ended up here. He did however think that I might make it to the ferry on time but I decided not to. He also thought I was crazy to be travelling alone! These stop-and-ask times take up time. Get too wrapped up with the locals! So…at Bondeni, it’s nice and comfy here. For TSH9000, not bad. Ordered some chicken and chips for super. Looking forward to it. Some interesting folk here.” Day 76: 19 September 2005 – Mtawara Lodge, Bondeni, Tanzania to Quimbo, Mozambique

“Got going early at Bondeni. Was told that the cost is TSH9000 including breakfast. Well, the waitress explained to 2 Canadian guests that the breakfast was only for 1 person! It was an extra TSH1000 for the second person. So I happily ate my omelette and felt only slightly annoyed for them. Had coffee then left. My first stop was at the NBC Bank, Mtwara branch, to change some TC’s into shillings – enough to fill diesel and exchange the remainder at the border. They wouldn’t accept US dollars as they didn’t have a machine to check the new dollar notes. This put me under pressure as I was not sure whether the ferry would accept dollars. So after an eternal hour of waiting for clearance, I got my money, filled diesel then met with Mr Mbawala, the Chief Engineer for the ferry. The owner of the Engen made some calls for me and sure as hell, Mr Mbawala appeared at the Engen explaining the ferry system. Didn’t know if he was for real so I didn’t pay him anything and chose to meet him at the river. I then left for the river – border crossing but took a slow drive there. Once at the border, I got the Carnet stamped and interestingly enough, the Tanzanian official offered me to change money – with him, in his office…illegal stuff but I screwed him on the rate and left in high spirits!!! The ferry was only going to leave with the water level high enough, that was at 4pm. I got there at 12H30, so had I had some time to pass. Passed the time by talking to and mixing with the local kids. It was quite interesting. Playing cricket with them. One kid reminded me of my nephew, Hamza. Made me miss all my nephews. And home. I felt like taking that kid with me. Many people made their way there, wanting to take their photos. Women with babies, old gents from the nearby village..the time was well spent. But ja, the trip onto the ferry was hectic; it had to be lined up sufficiently with the bank in order for vehicles to drive onto the ferry. Crazy system but it worked. The ride on the ferry took 20 minutes and once on the other side, it was just a bad muddy road to the Mozambique immigration. When I used low range to get off the ferry onto the crazy steep bank, I knew I was in for it. I enjoyed this though!

At the border, the official, a full-of-nonsense character, gave me an idea of the distances to Palma and Mocimboa da praia. I would be hard pressed to make even Palma before dark. Contemplated staying at the border but decided to move. Official guy told me it was a single track so best I be careful. “Plenty accident” he said gesturing with his hands, two cars coming around a bend and crashing, loud slam of the right fist into the left hand! I drove as far as far as Quimbo and a kind gentleman offered me place outside his house to camp. They had a chair for me, and made me sit in it. Even offered me some freshly cooked fish. Very nice atmosphere, in the dark, eating noodles and sardines and fish, with total strangers, with the full moon rising….I think the entire town came to see this. That night I slept with the sound of coconuts crashing through the night…freaky!” Day 77: 20 September 2005 – Quimbo to Russell’s Place, Mozambique

“Today, I left at 05H30. Turns out it was actually 04H30 as I hadn’t yet adjusted my watch. Gave my host some cash as a token of my appreciation. He even had a ‘security’ looking after me through the night. There has to be a twist – he wanted me to give his son/relative/friend/whatever a lift to Mocimboa, but I couldn’t. I felt pressure but stood tight on my resolve. Pressure so early in the morning – not good! (later learnt that he was the Mayor of the town!) So I headed out and after some tricky roads, made it to Mocimboa da praia. A nice little town in need of a coat of paint. Went to ‘Bank Austral’ to change my TC’s but they don’t. Then tried to buy some halaal take aways but couldn’t explain in Portuguese what I wanted so left – destination Pemba. Reached Pemba after a relaxing drive and headed straight for the bank – Standard bank. They want to charge $59 for commission on TC’s, some 11.9% of my TC value. I was flabbergasted and left but chose to try the other banks tomorrow. It was then off to Pemba take aways. Ordered some prawns and chips, which took long to arrive. In the meanwhile, I watched the Landy parked on the street and all the attention it drew. After some time a cop came across in a very hostile manner gestured in Portuguese that I move the Landy or else it will be towed away. So I did. Then came the prawns….lovely! Pemba take awys owes me some cash so I’ll be back there tomorrow. Then it was off to Wimbe Beach to find accommodation. Drove around and after asking some questions found Russell’s campsite or whatever. There are a couple of South Africans here. Some talk too much. Others were also on the move and some amazing tales. But I’m okay here and ready to catch up on some sleep. Lala Salaama!” Day 78: 21 September 2005 – Pemba, Russell’s Place, Mozambique – day 2

“Even though I was really knackered, when it got to 7 O clock, the tent was too hot and stuffy. So I got up, made some breakfast, packed up the rooftop tent then headed to Pemba town to try and exchange these goddamn TC’s (again). The first bank did not exchange TC’s and the queues were in any case too long. The next bank, ‘Bank Austral’ would not change more than $100 per day – and they did not yet have the rate for today. They asked me to return at 11 o clock. I did not. With my hat in my hand, I went back to Standard Bank. After a longish wait, within 5 minutes of being helped, I exchanged $500…that’s an SA bank for you. But the commission worked out to $59….bastards!! Feeling relieved and heartbroken about the $59, I then spent my millions – bought some supplies, bread and then tried an internet café, but it only had one PC so I left. Then it was off to my local favourite take away, for an average burger. I then headed back to the campsite but first decided to go and check out the ‘Blue Swallows’ at stuck-up Johan’s place. Found Wire tailed Swallows so left.

Back at the campsite, I drank Coke and chatted to some of the guys there. At about 15H00, I decided to go for a swim. As I got to the beach, Trevor, some Free Diving champion who also stays at the campsite, came running to me with his snorkel and spear gun and was expecting to see mine. The deal was that he was going to take me out to dive with him but earlier in the day told me that he could not as he had a marathon swim back after his morning dive and that he was buggered. But I think when he heard I was going, he found the energy to go again. So anyway, I ran back to fetch my snorkelling goodies and we all headed back to the beach. We walked quite a distance and got to some rocky point where Trevor got in first, then me. Shore entry into the big blue. I’ve never done anything like this before and we landed up swimming about 200 – 300m into the deep blue. Quite daunting at the time but lots of fun. I watched Trevor trying to spear fish but after a while I turned back. When he got back to land he told me that as I had turned back, he found the reef he was looking for. Damn….next time! So back at the campsite, I showered, then had supper, paid my bill and packed up the Landy. But just before that, while chatting to the guys, Riaan Manser arrived. This is the guy who has been cycling for two years around Africa. Quite an am amazing guy. Chatted to him for a while then wished him and said my goodbyes to everyone…Riaan, Gustav, Stuckup-Johan. I was smashed!!!” Day 79: 22 September 2005 – Pemba, Russell’s Place to Igreja Mundial Missionary, Mugeba, Mozambique

“I left at 06H00 and planned for a long drive to wherever. I was not sure if I was going to Ilha de Mocambique, Nampula or Quelimane. As I drove I made up my mind – decided to give Ilha de Mocambique a skip and head for Nampula. As I got to Nampula, decided to head out to Quelimane. Then I hit a 110km gravel road from hell that soaked up time, so by 18H00 it was dark and the roads were badly potholed and I couldn’t find a place to stay. Reached the town of Mugeba and after first driving past a building painted “Restrooms”, I decided to turn back and try it out. The kid there was adamant “No!” – I could not stay. Off course my irritation flared up and so I left, planning to drive to Mocuba first and if I didn’t come right with accommodation, head on to Quelimane in the dark. Its very dark on these roads. But as I drove out of Mugeba, I spotted a board “Accommodation” 3.5km in. Decided to ty it out. Turns out it’s a missionary run by some Germans I think and they have been very kind to let me stay here for the night. There is a generator providing electricity, a kitchen, shower…millions of guards nervously shining spotlights every time I move. Hope it will be safe here. Looking forward to spending the night here and seeing the place in the daylight. Tomorrow I plan to drive Quelimane and then to Gorongosa National Park and maybe spend 2 days there. Will need to cross the Zambezi via the ferry so I hope that it all works out well. Goodnight☺” Day 80: 23 September 2005 – Igreja Mundial Missionary, Mugeba to Gorongosa National Park,Mozambique

“Had a good night’s sleep at the mission and washed up, packed up and paid my host. He gave me some good tips on the road ahead. It seems that fuel availability for the next 1000km is a problem so while I think I’m okay, I’ll be keeping a close eye on the fuel gauge. Lots of guys selling diesel mixed with water or something on the road sides My drive today was again 630km. It didn’t seem too long as more than half the road was good tar. At one point I drove through a thunderstorm and had to stop and cool off in the rain. It was very hot and humid today. So it felt good to be cooling off, literally! Reached Gorongosa National park at 15H48 and it really did feel good to be back in the bush again, familiar smells and sounds.

The veld was all burnt so it wasn’t too pretty to look at. But nevertheless, I decided then that I do prefer the bush over the beach! As someone once said, to be close to nature, a bush holiday is the way to go. To simply relax and do nothing, then yes, the beaches are best. Ah well… So I got to the entrance gate after 12km and had to (again) battle through the Portuguese. The Bradt Travel Guide had some basic lingo but I suffered, book in hand..gestures..drawings!! All good! After that, it was a 20km drive to Chitengo, the main camp. Passed many old buildings and maybe a reminder of a violent bygone era. This Park is apparently where Renamo had their headquarters. Lots of wildlife was also poached so I was not expecting to seen any wildlife. But I did see Baboons and some Impala. Back at Chitengo, a neat little, freshly restored place, I paid for 2 nights camping and settled down around my fire. Decided to sleep in the ground tent. Also decided to braai chicken, so got the fire started early. After dinner, I washed up, did the laundry, had a shower and went to bed. Got up early in the night to go to the gents, not sure what was lurking around. This place is pretty wild at night!! With the sound of Spotted Eagle Owls, I fell asleep…”

Day 81: 24 September 2005 – Day 2, Chitengo Camp, Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique

“Got going nearly and have been on a game drive. Whilst the bush is all burnt, there are many warthogs around and generally, good game viewing. Saw some fresh lion tracks. There are also many Tsetse Flies around, my good old nasty friends. I am parked here under some Lala Palms. Needed to cool off so this is where I am now. Nice and peaceful…..the sounds of the bush. It’s starting to warm up…might drive a bit more and head back to camp. Let’s see what happens. After I woke up, I decided to get back to camp. But first I drove around Gorongosa and found an old dilapidated double storey buildings. Thought I’d find the lions here as this is what was told…they like the shade under the building I was told. Its an old thing that's been abandoned for ages. The Park is too burnt and I just wanted to go to the camp and relax. This I did. Even walked around the camp and socialised with the locals and some tourists and had a Coke. By 18H50 the fire was going. Cooked some curry and rice for supper which was delicious. Many people came over to chat. By 21H30 I was in the tent while my noisy South African neighbours carried on through the night. So different from up in Tanzania…Kenya…Uganda where I had campsites all to myself, only canines and felines roaming about! And off course on occasion the Overland trucks. Tonight as I sat around the fire I started thinking about getting home and that it was not far now. What a journey this has been! Tomorrow I’m off to Vilanculous…looking forward to some good accommodation…spoiling myself a bit…maybe!” Day 82: 25 September 2005 – Chitengo Camp, Gorongosa National Park to Casa Rex, Vilanculous, Mozambique

“Before leaving Gorongosa NP, I had breakfast, waved my noisy neighbours goodbye and left. Saw some beautiful Kudus on the burnt grass, nice. Back on the main road, the tar switched between good and bad and terrible & there was a 200km good gravel section. Today, I added 2 more stickers to the Landy, the Murchison Falls NP and Queen Elizabeth NP stickers! Had to stop and this ‘sticker ceremony’ has become somewhat of a ritual!

Once back on the road, I couldn’t quite decide what I wanted to do, stay at Vilanculous or head for Inhambane. In the end I decided to go to Vilanculous and for once, spoil myself, with a nice place. This I have done! ! I am now at Casa Rex, a very nice (& expensive) lodge. Have this beautiful room overlooking the sea and it is very special to be here. Had a good clean up! Haven't shaved in weeks! It really feels nice It really feels nice. In fact I’ve decided, no more cheap holidays!!! It’s great to be here and the perfect way to wind down this amazing trip!” Day 83: 26 September 2005 – Day 2, Casa Rex, Vilanculous, Mozambique

“I am really enjoying this place. Slept beautifully and woke up to a splendid day, while the wind tugged at the curtains. I lay in bed and again, just enjoyed this little dose of luxury. Think I found something really special. It’s so nice here… Slowly I moved towards the breakfast table and the coffee was good. After breakfast I played a game of chess with the owner which I think I won narrowly. A win is a win! Best of 3 she cried so I won again!! After that, I hit the swimming pool. This really made me happy and I played like a little kid in the water! The view of the ocean from the swimming pool is something I’ve never experienced, nice. From the pool, I headed back to the room and just lazed around before I decided to head out for lunch – pizza at New Yorkers (or whatever). Quite good food, and the restaurant is also at the beachfront and the view of boats stranded on the sand reminded me that it was low tide. Never before have I seen such a thing, now I see it every day! It’s almost like someone pulled the drain plug on the ocean! But ja, back after lunch, I’ve just come back from the pool “again”, and I’m getting ready to lala salaama…while the wind tugs at the curtains…. After a peaceful sleep, it was off to the restaurant to have some and tea, socialise and another game of chess, which I lost…stupid! Decided to have dinner New York Pizza & Take away. After the chess game I decided to walk to NYP & TA, but before leaving Casa Rex, I asked the guard at the gate if it was safe to walk around at night. “Noa English”, he said. So I gestured by cutting my throat, blowing my brains and some stabbing shots…he immediately knew what I was asking. So he says “Noa Noa”, saying that it is safe! So I laughed and walked off. But as soon as I left, it felt very unsafe. I walked for maybe 50m before I decided to walk back and fetch the Landy. Walking to the restaurant now was fine but not sure about walking back later. Who knows where I was going to end up. It was then when I stepped into some horrible stuff…a packet with dog shit…son-of-a-bitch!! Annoyed and stressed, I hurried back to the Landy. Removed my shoes before getting in and stepped into the mud…now I had muddy feet…godammit!!! With that I got to the restaurant without further incident. I sat outside first but it was too windy. Ordered some food, which after a longish wait, as good. Some interesting folk here… Got back into the Landy and headed back to Casa Rex, late. Off course I first removed my dog-shitshoes before getting in. Quite an eventful day. Right now, I’m just relaxing in my room. The wind is gusting and I wonder what’s happening with the weather…Vilanculous” Day 84: 27 September 2005 – Cassa Rex, Vilanculous top Jeff’s Lodge, Inhambane, Mozambique

“I said goodbye to Casa Rex – a place of pure bliss and sheer relaxation and luxury. Love it here & maybe I will return one day soon. So my plan was to get to Inhambane. This turned out to be 300km of gravel and potholes-infested tar-come-a-road-from-hell. It took immense concentration and I felt slightly stressed at times. Once can avoid some potholes some of the time but not all, all the time. Whatever!

But the Landy soldiered on, south, south, south to South Africa. I am feeling like maybe I should just head home but once I took the Inhambane turn off, I was committed. At this point, I was still not sure where I was going to go and if I was going to dive or maybe find another fun-filled lodge and just chill. There was Guinjata Bay Report/Lodge and I was considering Jeff’s Lodge, the latter only because Trigger Divers was recommended and they are situated right next to Jeff’s. So the road to either of these was thick sand and the Landy laboured in high range diff lock because someone was too lazy to drop the tyre pressure! When I got to the Guinjata Bay turn off, I decided to go to Jeff’s as it became clear that I wanted to dive Manta Reef. But the road from here got worse and I felt the Landy digging in and the wear on the clutch too much. When I got to Jeff’s I noticed that the Landy did not sound too good.. Hope it will not die on me and I was 556km from the SA border. So back at Jeff’s, I met Collin Jefferies, the owner and some woman, Gladys who enthralled me with stories of a fire that ravaged through their camp. Sad. I then decided to drop the Landy’s tyres while I waited for my room to be cleaned etc. One thing I’ve learned on this trip, one cannot afford to be lazy with the important things. I then settled in and just hung around, walked on the beach, had something to eat and relaxed. At about 15H45, Kia and Daniel from trigger Divers came and saw me about diving tomorrow (made enquiries earlier with Daniel, a Czech dude whose English was poor). They asked to see my diving cards and probed me on my diving experience. They were also interested in my travels and said that we would discuss it more tomorrow. I had to tell them about my nausea problem and I don’t think they enjoyed hearing about my problem as there were other divers there as well and it would appear obvious that no one wants their dive spoilt by some sick sod! But I hope to remain positive and to my annoyance, I don’t have any motion sickness pills to counter-act the nausea. Hopefully, I feel okay. It’s a worry because it’s been happening all the time lately. Back at Jeff’s, I organised all my diving stuff. It’s 20H30 now, time for a bath & sleep but not before I do some exploring of the area! I meet my Dive Masters at 07H00…”

Day 85: 28 September 2005 – Day 2 - Jeff’s Lodge, Inhambane, Mozambique “The anxiety of the diving and nausea kept me awake most of the night. It was also hot and sweaty. I knew that I wasn’t ok. By 05H00, I was wide awake. But I lay in my bed, reluctant to move. The sea sounded rough and when I got out to look at the weather, initially I noticed that the wind had died down somewhat but also noticed the thick cloud layer.

Had some cereal and tea and by 06H45, I was ready. By 07H00, I headed out to Trigger Divers camp but found that it was still closed. By now it had begun drizzling and the weather was not too good for anything but sleeping. Daniel then pitched and as explained, in his spoor English, that the diving may be off for today. He asked that I go back to my banda-thingy and that Kia would be here by 08H00 to confirm. So I left, relieved. It definitely did not look like a good idea to dive in this crappy weather. The sea was very rough. So I headed back, had some coffee and decided to lay in bed until Kia comes with an update. As I sit now, I’ve had a small snooze, but nothing from the diving people. I guess the diving is cancelled for today. Would’ve been nice if they came and set my mind at rest. There has been some distant thunder. Think I will just remain indoors and again, reminisce about my trip. Really excited about getting back to SA, hopefully tomorrow. There is actually nothing else on my mind!!

Its 15H25 now. Had a relaxing sleep and have really just been doing nothing. I feel somewhat relaxed but still irritated that the people from Trigger Divers have still not showed up. But in all fairness the weather still sucks. No point making much ado about nothing! I am now really keen to get back in SA. Miss my family…nephews..mum, dad, brother, sisters. Thinking about going for a walk now but that may require too much effort! It’s quite steep down to the bottom, at the beach…Ja…! 20H30 now. Went for a walk down to the beach, but first paid my bill as I was planning to leave early tomorrow. Glady’s again kept me there longer than planned with arbitrary talk. Think she enjoyed chatting to me! Back down at the beach, I saw all the dead Jellyfish that had been washed up last night…the stench..nauseating!! Another reason why we could not dive. The ocean was covered with dead Jellyfish. Decided to head back to the room and started with dinner, curry and rice and all and all!! Very good. The rest of the evening I just spent reading and packing up some stuff in the Landy. Kia and Daniel did eventually come and see me about diving tomorrow. It was apparently the first time today that they’ve had to cancel dives since I don’t know when. They hung around, we chatted about the trip, told them some of my crazy encounters. Didn’t think I would pull it off. Eventually they left. Back in bed now. Tomorrow is my big day, back to SA. I’m excited and look forward to crossing the border.” Day 86: 29 September 2005 – Jeff’sodge, Inhambane, Mozambique to Protea Hotel, Kruger Lodge, RSA

“I made it back to SA!! And it feels so good to be back. Yesterday, I was contemplating staying another day at Jeff’s in order to do the dives. Didn’t expect the weather to clear up by tomorrow especially since the weather seemed to have worsened during the day. But today, the weather did clear up and it would have been good to have stayed another day, but I had to go!! Left at 05H30 after doing my daily inspection of the Landy, as I have been for 85 days before this. Just to see if anything has changed. The sound that I heard earlier was gone. I looked at the Landy and could see the battle scars. But still, tough as nails. Never say die. The drive to Maputo was long and arduous and I found it very taxing. Some areas were so potholeinfested that there were guys with puncture repairs equipment camped outside some of those massive potholes. But I got there and the road from Maputo to the border, Renasso Garcia, was excellent. There were 2 toll gates which I paid with a smile! When I got to the border post, I was approached by a guy claiming to be able to help me, for a certain fee off course. In the immigration section, I was taken aback by the sheer number of people in there. My guy squeezed into the queue and I reckon that he saved me maybe 10-15 minutes. Paid him the equivalent of $4. Got the Carnet stamped, went to the SA side, got my passport stamped, did the foot-and mouth thing and I WAS IN SA!! It really did feel good. My destination was Crocodile Bridge, Kruger Park. When I got there, the lady said there was no accommodation anywhere in the south of the Park. Disappointed, I chose to renew my Wild card and enter the Park anyway and try my luck at Lower Sabie and Skukuza, if necessary. Well, there was nothing at Lower Sabie and Skukuza. I did however see a Leopard on my way, so I was not too disappointed….aaah Kruger! It only meant that I had to try the Protea Hotel outside Kruger Gate, 4 star hotel!! And off course, there was availability. This was the perfect way to end my trip. The luxury felt good. Had supper, showered and slept beautifully….”

Day 87: 30 September 2005 – Day 2, Protea Hotel, Kruger Lodge, RSA

“To day I slept in. The bed’s so comfortable and quiet, it’s been a long time since I’ve managed to sleep past 08H00. Decided to go and have breakfast and boy, is that amazing or what! The choice is so vast it boggles the mind. But I stuck to omelettes and toast, filter coffee and litchi juice (which was excellent!). Then head back to the room where I just relaxed, sat outside on the verandah and listened to the birds…reminiscing. Can’t really tell you how I feel. I’ve changed in many ways and I feel different. I then decided to go onto the viewing deck that overlooks the Sabie River and into the Kruger Park. There was no one else around and the bush quiet but soon enough things came around. Spotted some lion chasing buffalos in the river bed. They failed so just hung around on the rocks. Eventually, I couldn’t see them anymore. Then, one of the guests told me about a lion kill in Kruger, just inside the gate as you got in. Sipped some milkshake then headed to the room and had a snooze until 14H45. By 15H00 I was in the Park and not long before I was watching 4 biggish cubs fighting over the remains of a kill. Quite exciting, a real case of Kruger at its best. It really was the perfect way to end the trip. I felt ready to go home and by 18H00 head back to the hotel. Had a shower and then went for dinner in the ‘boma’ which again, boggled my mind when I saw all the food. Lots of this must go to waste (?) Tonight, once back at the hotel, I got into bed and just watched TV until the cows came home!! Nearly 3 months since I’ve watched TV. Didn’t miss it. It really was enjoyable. Tomorrow is my final leg of the journey….HOME!”

Day 88: 01 October 2005 – Protea Kruger Lodge to HOME!

“By 09H00, I left the hotel and slowly made my way home. Although I wanted to just get there, I took time to savour some of the special memories of this trip. Besides, I’ve become very compliant of the speed limits lately. I enjoyed looking and listening to familiar sights and sounds. Although I’ve driven this road very many times, some things I did not recognise or remember. Eventually, I got through Mpumalanga and into Gauteng. The roads were as always, busy and fast, lots of vehicles. It did take a bit of getting used to. By now, I was close to 19000km since I left Joburg on the 06th July. It’s been a long haul, but worth every step of the way. By 14H50, I pulled up outside the house and everyone was out there waiting for me, so glad to see me and me to see them. It was very emotional for me. I’ve been away for a long time and I did miss them. They all remarked about my weight loss! And the Landy looked rough and filthy! A nice afternoon followed where we all sat and relayed some of my stories, showed some pictures and ate some lunch. Even though I seemed subdued and sad in a way, it was really good to be back home. To see mum’s smile again, no words. So I’m back at home, in my house and tonight I sleep in my own bed, something I longed for on many an occasion. This is my first trip into Africa. A successful one it was. All praises to the Almighty, for taking me and bringing me back safely. Lala salaama.”